Longtan Gorge Travel Notes and Essays
一
If you want your impetuous mind to be temporarily quiet, then you should find a grand canyon, go up or down, and let the natural mountains and rivers wash your mind. soul.
The hot weather has just arrived, and my lazy mind is at a loss as to what to do. I had a good opportunity to walk into the Longtan Grand Canyon in Daimei Mountain, Luoyang, to watch the unparalleled wonders of landslides and cracks, experience the wonderful artistic conception of exploring secluded places, and enjoy the cool water world here.
The Longtan Grand Canyon is more than ten kilometers long. The valleys and narrow valleys in the valley are distributed in a bead shape. The clouds are steaming, the rapids are splashing, the red walls are green, and the cliffs are precipitous. It enjoys the title of "China's No. 1 Zhang Valley" Wait for the reputation. The rhyme of the red stone, the soul of the Yellow River, and the colors of the mountains and waters complement each other, forming a cluster of bright pearls on the thousands-mile Yellow River.
The mountains are rolling. We turned left and right along the winding mountain road, and everything was green, so green that we wanted to be free and indulgent. Occasionally, you can see the swaying summer flowers on both sides of the mountain road. They are less impetuous and more mature; they are less delicate and more quiet and beautiful. They are not eye-catching or eye-catching. The gesture presents another intriguing visual.
As the car bumped and swayed, the mood of anticipation began to float and jump. The difficulties of life and the hustle and bustle of the city are temporarily forgotten, and the beautiful moments flash past one by one. Occasionally, they freeze in a certain scene, savor it carefully, and chew it slowly.
There has been drought in the past few years, and it is rare to see green mountains and green waters in the northern region. In the rolling mountains, exposed river beds and dry rivers suddenly appeared, and I couldn't help but wonder secretly in my heart. Could this be the landscape painting in the dream? Going further, a clean street is built along the river, with farmhouse restaurants and hotels on both sides of the street. After asking the friendly locals on the roadside, I learned that this place is called Qinghechuan, a tributary of the Yellow River. Not far below is Wanshan Lake, and up is Longtan Grand Canyon.
Thinking about the Longtan Grand Canyon, it must be like a lady who has been in a boudoir for a long time and will never show her face easily. Now that we are here, we have even more expectations in our hearts.
2
Entering the Grand Canyon, I accidentally saw a pictographic stone man's head on the stone cliff on the right, sitting upright and lifelike, waiting on the road leading to Longtan Grand Canyon, like When welcoming guests from afar, it gives people a feeling of returning.
Walking in the canyon is like swimming in a painting. The scenery changes with each step, full of interest.
A blue wave is rippling in front of you. The red rocks and green trees on both sides of the bank are reflected in the water, and the shrimps with golden scales come and go in and out of it, just like a dream. This is the first landscape of Longtan Canyon, with red cliffs, red rocks, deep pools and waterfalls. After walking a few steps along the left bank of the pond, you can hear the sound of rushing water. Looking up, I saw a waterfall with two wet red edges, white and shiny, with flying flowers and broken jade.
Standing on the shore, you can see the whole picture of Qingtan without raising your head. The lake and mountains are beautiful, the waves are calm, the golden scales are swimming, and several pleasure boats are floating on the blue waves. There are cliffs on both sides, making visitors feel like they are underground. It's a hot summer day. The sun is shining down, but there is no feeling of heat.
It is relatively open here. You can see the slight white clouds in the blue sky, the trees and grass growing in the cracks of the rocks reveal a lush green color, and the rushing water makes people feel cool. The water rushed down from the high rocks, divided into five or six strands, and fell one after another like light rain. There are splashes on the water, like flying flowers and broken jade, crystal clear and twinkling. Several peaks gather in the pool, which is called Wulongtan. I originally thought there should be five waterfalls here, but due to drought, only one remained. You can vaguely see several natural stone caves on the cliff, which are probably the so-called Wulong Cave.
Hold on to the rocks beside you and climb up the ladder carefully. Bending through an artificially dug stone cave, there is a cave in front of you. Reminds me of Tao Yuanming's "Peach Blossom Spring":
When the forest ends and the source of water reaches a mountain, there is a small mouth on the mountain, as if there is light... entering through the mouth. At first he was extremely narrow, but only then did he understand people. After walking dozens of steps, I suddenly became enlightened.
The sight of steaming clouds, surrounded by mountains and rivers, green trees and red flowers, is like a fairyland on earth. There are waterfalls one after another, some are like dragons spitting saliva, some are like green dragons entrenched, some are like black dragons sleeping, some are like flying dragons diving into the abyss. The waterfalls are like flying jade and broken silver, the pools are clear and the bottom is clear, and the gorges are very steep.
As we meandered forward, a cluster of reeds turned the shallows green, hiding the clear water. The sunlight reflected on the surrounding stone walls made the green leaves of the reeds shine even more. Choose a place with clear rocks in the water to sit down and wash your feet in the clear spring without worrying about spoiling the scenery. Sitting alone, it is rare to find such a lonely environment and such a quiet artistic conception, but there is indescribable harmony in the loneliness, and there is infinite imagination in the quietness. Looking around, you can see the faint ink marks on the distant mountains, the cliffs like graffiti, the jagged mountains and rocks, and the low hum of the streams.
The steps lightly cut through the water, letting the waves splash and wet the clothes. My mood is like this gurgling stream, like this quiet blue pool, like this sparkling waves. Occasionally the waves stir up the rocks, and the occasional leaping scales are wonderful inspirations. Swimming in this canyon is full of joy and wonder, as well as magic and mystery. If you are willing, let your shallow mind ponder hard for a quarter of an hour, and you may be able to realize something.
The layers are neatly arranged on the cliff, which reminds me of the artificial Longmen Grottoes, and I can't help but marvel at the "good fortune clock".
The clearly identifiable ripple stone allows us to witness the magic of the Creator. It is like a natural washboard, lying quietly in the valley of the canyon, with bright color and beautiful texture. It is embellished with green vegetation, forming a poetic picture. Standing next to Bohen Cliff, looking up at the top of the cliff on the right, there is a strip of stone protruding towards the face. It is shaped like a magpie, and its attitude is as if it is welcoming guests.
"Water flows to higher places" seemed to be a gimmick, and I didn't take it seriously at first, but the visual error surprised me. Sometimes what you see is not necessarily what you believe. It is relatively gentle here, and the inclination of the rock formations is consistent with the flow direction of the stream. The inclination angle of the rock formations is greater than the inclination angle of the strata. The stream water swirls and migrates here, which inevitably produces visual errors.
Those hemispherical smooth potholes, like urns and niches, let us marvel at the uncanny craftsmanship of nature; the majestic slabs of stone, like celestial monuments, the back of a knife, a book, or a flying bird; like the back of a knife, let us Feeling the wonder of the vicissitudes of life; and the spring and autumn on the stone, let us feel the tenacity of vitality:
There are several green sandalwood trees, and the Qiu roots are wrapped around the rock.
A place that has endured thousands of blows and stood proudly year after year.
This thousand-year-old sandalwood tree is rooted in the cracks of the stone, criss-crossing it, like a coiled dragon and a crouching dragon; standing upright on the rock, it thrives in the cold and summer seasons, and flourishes upward. "The Book of Songs" once said:
Put the seeds in and enjoy the other's garden. Do not exceed my garden and do not break my sandalwood trees.
In the infinite blue sky, in the luster of green leaves, in the crisp chirping of birds, in the swaying of reeds, in the swimming of golden-scaled shrimps, human thoughts are rippling, nature and life Melt together. This is a natural journey, but also a spiritual journey.
It was past noon, and we forgot about hunger and fatigue. We had reached the end of the canyon before we knew it, but our group seemed to still have more to say. Standing at the top of the canyon and looking down, the Longtan Grand Canyon is like a giant dragon lying down, with thousands of walls standing on the left and right, like a mountain falling and the ground splitting; the gorges on both sides face each other, and the pools and waterfalls are connected. Red rocks, green trees, waterfalls, secluded pools, swimming fish, shrimps, cliffs, secluded caves, stone paths, just pick a corner, just a few dots and a few strokes, and a wonderful ink painting will appear. No wonder this place is called the "Yellow River Water Gallery".
This place is surrounded by mountains, but it is much more open. Fellow travelers wanted to climb to the top of the mountain, ride the ropeway, cross the overpass, and have an exciting and thrilling heartbeat, but I timidly felt that I was not able to enjoy it. You can only admire the fish in the abyss, sit down and watch others swing on the water, and cross the overpass in the air, which is also a kind of enjoyment in life. Unknowingly, the difficulties and worries of life, and the hustle and bustle of the city, are diluted, melted, and blown away by the mountains, the water, the wind, and the green here.
Look at a waterfall flowing down from the mountain col on the left, but there is no clear water overflowing from the deep pool below. I secretly thought that the water might be flowing from the bottom of the pool, but I searched everywhere but couldn't find it. After asking a local girl, I found out that the water is artificially stored and recycled. Thinking of the waterfalls in Yuntai Mountain, they are exactly the same and can only be seen on special days, which makes me feel very uncomfortable. Let’s ask about the waterfalls and springs we just walked along. They are also water stored in reservoirs. The interest dropped a bit. Indeed, knowing the truth is sometimes really cruel, and it is better to be confused.
It rained on the way back, which was a happy episode. Walking in the canyon sadly, I don't know when the canyon became much darker. Looking up at the top of Daimei Mountain, it was already shrouded in dark clouds. The storm is about to come and the wind is filling the building. The sky was getting low and the wind was getting stronger. As we were about to reach the mountain pass, there was a rumble of thunder, followed by a burst of raindrops as big as peas, and soon it was like thousands of troops rushing down.
At the beginning, we were not in a hurry, but after all, we did not have the calmness and calmness of Su Shi, who said, "Don't listen to the sound of the wind beating leaves in the forest, why not scream and walk slowly". After a while, the group of people huddled under the eaves of the roadside to take shelter. The whole canyon is like dragons roaring and tigers roaring, exciting and comfortable. Although it was soaked by the rain, I didn't feel disappointed. Instead, I felt an overwhelming sense of pleasure and comfort.
After about half an hour, the rain cleared up and the sun set again, and the canyon became peaceful. Looking back at Daimei Mountain, it is vaguely shrouded in mist, like a hibiscus emerging from the water, standing tall and graceful, beautiful and tranquil. And those locks of mist are like a fairy with dark eyebrows combing her hair, so charming and charming.
Three
There would be no green mountains without water, and no mountains without water would be beautiful. An environment surrounded by green mountains and green waters has always been an ideal living environment for human beings. The love for water, the intimacy of caves, and the yearning for jungles originate from human instinct. They are the most primitive calling and the involuntary self-regression of human beings, making people feel safe, comfortable and natural.
In our traditional culture, the dragon controls the rain, and we consider ourselves the descendants of the dragon. The dragon is the totem of our nation. The highest worship of the dragon is mostly reflected in the names of places and people with dragons. Longtan Grand Canyon embodies such a kind of cultural worship and spiritual belief.
Longtan Gorge starts from Qingyao Mountain and ends at Jingzi Mountain, with the Qinghe River flowing through it. It is the core scenic spot of Daimei Mountain Global Geopark.
There is a beautiful legend about Daimei Mountain. Dai Mei is said to be the concubine of Shang Tang. Because King Tang was obsessed with women, Dai Mei left the palace in anger and went to the mountains to practice cultivation. Hou Daimei persuaded King Tang to take the world as his own responsibility and save the people from water and fire. King Tang felt ashamed, so he cultivated virtue and strengthened his army. Finally, he defeated Xia Jie and unified the world.
At the same time, Dai Mei practiced and became an immortal. In order to express his gratitude for Dai Mei's kindness, King Tang built a Notre Dame Temple for her and named the mountain where she practiced to become an immortal after her.
Myths are illusory stories that people make up based on their own objective feelings and associations before they understand nature. They are subjective reflections of human consciousness and humanistic explanations of nature. It is a kind of spiritual sublimation and therefore has special aesthetic significance. People have given beautiful and moving mythical stories to the many geological wonders of Longtan Grand Canyon, making the scenic spots more humane and thus possessing deeper aesthetic value and social significance.
About Qingyaoshan. "The Classic of Mountains and Seas" records that "Qingyao Mountain is actually the secret capital of the emperor." This passage in ancient classics makes Qingyao Mountain have a connection with the humanistic ancestor of our Chinese nation, Xuanyuan Huangdi, and also makes her revealed. Through the long tunnel of time, it has become a carrier of ancient culture.
Qinghechuan was once an important transportation artery from the Central Plains to Jiangzhou, Houma and Taiyuan in Shanxi.
I once saw an ordinary stone cave, which made me think a lot. It is said that it was the place where King Luo Bin took refuge, called Binwang Cave. A cave that can only accommodate one person may be a woodcutter's shelter from the rain, a wild beast's habitat, or just a rock crevice. But because of this label, many stories have arisen. King Luo Bin was a young prodigy, and the most familiar song is his goose chant:
Goose, goose, goose, bending its neck to sing to the sky.
White hair floats on the green water, and anthurium stirs the clear waves.
King Luo Bin should be the representative of Chinese literati who are unruly, aloof and unrecognized for their talents. A young prodigy with a bumpy career in middle age and a depressed career, he followed Xu Jingye to start a rebellion. Failure was the inevitable result. It is in line with the old saying: It will take ten years for the civilized people to rebel. Moreover, Xu Jingye's military ability and political ambition are not as good as King Luo Bin's talent. It is said that Wu Zetian was so horrified by the "Telling the Emperor Wu Zhao Xi" he wrote that she wished she could have used it earlier.
This famous figure, one of the "Four Heroes of the Early Tang Dynasty", finally ended up unknown, and the whereabouts of his soul has become an eternal mystery. Perhaps it would be impossible to live a comfortable life on the run after a defeat. This remote Binwang Cave is hidden in a deep mountain canyon. It seems reasonable for King Luo Bin to hide here. The winner is the king and the enemy is defeated, which makes people sigh.
Luojiacun may be a coincidence, may be fabricated, or may be an addendum, but there is no way to prove it. Thousands of years later, it is no longer that important where King Luo Bin's soul is. After all, history has left us with too many mysteries. But there are traces that can be found and conclusively stated, including the poems of Lumingya and the two poem monuments in memory of King Luo Bin preserved in the homes of nearby villagers. I don't know whether it's true or not.
Looking at the Luming Cliff, I seem to see the unfulfilled King Luo Bin helplessly composing a song "Luming Yin":
Mianyi Luming presents a wonderful scene, with cliffs covered with tens of thousands of stones. Leng Zeng;
The white mist of Chuan Mountain is swirling, and the river water is green and windy.
The roaring green river took away his passion; the remote Longtan became the place where he died.
Four
Perhaps only geologists can explain the natural wonders of Longtan Grand Canyon. Most people who come here on weekends or holidays have no intention of exploring the mysteries of nature. They just appreciate it from the perspective of an outsider, step on the stone paths, listen to their own voices while playing in the water, and gain some superficial enlightenment or sighs. I won’t even want to leave for a while. But eventually I have to return to my original noisy and troubled life.
I have experienced the hardships of life in a mountain village. I occasionally revisit old dreams and regain warm memories to add a little freshness to my numb life. However, if I want to live forever, I really lack that kind of courage and perseverance. . The so-called seclusion is nothing more than a self-deception fantasy on the part of bystanders.
Natural landscapes, without the influence of culture, will inevitably lack spirituality and connotation. Culture is the soul of a nation. Integrate culture into the natural mountains and rivers. The legend of Daimei Mountain, the ruins of the Yellow Emperor's secret capital in Qingyao Mountain, the story of King Luo Bin's refuge, the myth of the Dragon King, and the story of the emperor's aunt marrying a blacksmith, etc., are all filled with rich traditional Chinese culture and add to the Longtan Grand Canyon. Magical charm.
But if you follow your own will and arbitrarily add some pure natural landscapes to some historical places of interest, try your best to find some cultural landscapes such as historical sites to connect nature with celebrities. Only by standing up can the scenic spot be filled with some confidence. This seems to have become a common problem in many scenic spots nowadays.
What’s more, naming scenic spots arbitrarily and imposing labels according to your own imagination is unavoidable and vulgar. In fact, this kind of mentality of self-proclaimed cultural people, showing hope and rottenness, lacks cultural self-confidence.
For example, it’s like a waterfall, but the little girl walking with it makes a more appropriate comparison: Look there, it looks like peeing! Looking up in the direction of the little girl's finger, a thin stream pours out from a cliff dozens of meters high, and its shape is lifelike. Can't help but smile.
Children speak without restraint. But it is much easier to understand than what geologists call it a "hanging valley waterfall". The layers upon layers of rocks have undergone tremendous changes over the years, and have been pointed out by many people. There are different opinions and no consensus. No matter what it is called, the mountain is still the same mountain, the stone is still the same stone, the waterfall is still the same waterfall, it is there.
In fact, the best choice is like the blank space in poetry, which only provides a viewing platform, allowing visitors to be immersed in the scene, imagine and understand by themselves. In this way, you can "see the scenery better than listening to the scenery" and avoid the preconceptions of labeling.
The rain in the mountains comes and goes without a trace, but outside the mountains a drop of rain has not fallen. Although it is not a sunny day, the clouds are brilliant, white, red, yellow, green, gray and purple, smeared on the sky at will. On the azure sky painting, there are strange shapes, like dreams and illusions. You can let your thoughts run freely and imagine as much as you want. They may be like a rainbow bridge lying on the waves, or a brocade scale soaring in the waves, a crocodile taking a nap, an egret stopping, or a beauty taking a bath. Or nothing.
Suddenly, the carriage was illuminated by red light. I turned around and looked at the sunset over the mountains behind me, as if the light of Buddha was shining all over me. Suddenly looking around, there are slowly moving mountains not far away in the south in the vast dusk. I can vaguely distinguish Ma'anshan, Xianglu Peak and Liantian Peak of my hometown in the distance, gradually blurring and becoming unrecognizable.