Maintenance and management methods of crane orchid in autumn and winter
Strelitzia reginae has strong adaptability and is easy to cultivate. Potting needs to choose a deeper and bigger pot. Potted soil can be made up of 8 parts humus soil or peat soil, 1 part river sand and 1 part compost soil. When planted, it is slightly deeper than the original pot. Don't get too wet after planting. After the first watering, wait until it is dry before watering.
He Wanglan likes light, but avoids direct glare. Except in summer, we should give it plenty of light. If there is not enough light, plants will grow weakly, bloom badly or not. Pay attention to the shade in summer, or put it in a well-ventilated semi-shade. When the weather is hot in summer, you should always sprinkle water on the leaves around the ground or plants to cool down, so as not to burn the leaves and turn yellow.
He Wanglan prefers chemical fertilizer. Apply pancake fertilizer once every half a month during the growing period, and 0.5% calcium superphosphate can be added to the fertilizer solution from flower bud to full flowering period, which will make bloom more beautiful. In areas where the water quality is alkaline, apply water once a month and add 0.2% ferrous sulfate solution to prevent soil alkalization, and stop applying fertilizer after the middle of 5438+ 10.
Strelitzia reginae is not cold-tolerant, so the northern area should be moved indoors in the middle of June 5438+ 10, and put in a sunny place, and the room temperature can be kept above 10℃ for safe wintering.
The propagation of Hedyotis diffusa is usually carried out in April and May. Separate the plants with a knife, and coat the incision with charcoal powder or plant ash to prevent rot. Care should be taken not to damage the root system, so as not to weaken the growth potential of plants and make it difficult to recover. Because there are generally no seeds, although seeds can be obtained by artificial pollination, it takes three years for seedlings to bloom. Mass propagation can also be propagated by tissue culture.
After flowering, the remaining pedicels should be cut off in time to reduce nutrient consumption. After flowering, plants can be replaced every other year.
Autumn seedling bud grafting and management method
Bud grafting is an important method of seedling grafting. Generally, it is carried out in autumn, when the weather is fine, and the grafted buds will not rot due to rain soaking or damp heat. After the grafted buds survive, the new buds will not germinate because the temperature turns cold, so they can survive the winter safely. In addition, the method of bud grafting seedlings is simple and easy to master, with high efficiency, and it is widely used in production. In North China, the seedlings suitable for budding in autumn are: peach and plum; Ten elder sisters (Bai Yutang) are rootstocks: all kinds of roses and yellow thorns. The budding time is from mid-August to early September after beginning of autumn. Premature bud grafting is easy to germinate and vulnerable to freezing injury in winter. If it's too late, I'm afraid I'll be close to dormancy, so it's not easy to survive. In the following, the author introduces the budding process through rootstock culture and budding.
Culturing rhizome
Rootstocks should be cultivated in advance. There are two methods: one is sowing and breeding, and the other is sowing after the autumn of the previous year. In the spring of the following year, when the buds grow to a height of 20 cm, they are dug with soil and transplanted into a predetermined bud grafting bed with a spacing of 25 cm and 80 cm. Its wider row spacing is convenient for future budding operation. Water and shade for two or three days after transplanting to make it grow rapidly. After that, strengthen maintenance, loosen soil, weed, water and fertilize in time, so that plants can grow sturdily. After the rainy season, bud grafting can be carried out when the trunk diameter reaches 1 cm or more.
The second method is cutting culture, in the late summer and early autumn of the previous year. Cut the full branches of that year into 25 cm long, leave some leaves at the top, and cut them in the opening with the spacing of 15 cm and 15 cm. After surviving, let it overwinter naturally. Before germination in the next spring, the branches are cut short, the soil is dug up, and the seedlings are transplanted into a predetermined bud grafting bed according to the row spacing of the hickory seedlings.
For the rootstock culture of the ten sisters, the branches can also be defoliated in the autumn of the previous year, cut into 25 cm long, arranged at the upper and lower ends, tied into small bundles and buried underground for preservation. Don't lay flat when you bury it, but tilt it slightly, with the top of the branch facing down. Because auxin in plants is mostly concentrated at the top, branch inversion can promote wound healing at the root end in the future. Take it out in the spring of the next year and cut it directly into a predetermined budding frame. Compared with the former, this method saves trouble and shortens the seedling raising period, but it must strengthen fertilizer and water management and promote growth after survival, and can be used as rootstock in autumn.
Ten sisters have long branches, but they can sprout on them in autumn. After surviving, they can cut the branches into small pieces, tie them up and bury them, and then take pictures. However, when cutting branches in sections, the bud position of each section should be considered, and the middle or lower part is more suitable, so that the bud after cutting can be above the soil surface and close to the ground. When burying branches in spring, dig out cuttings. At this time, the rootstock takes root and new branches sprout, and both of them go hand in hand, which is more convenient and fast.
Preparation before bud grafting
After the rainy season, you can start preparing for bud grafting. First, weed the fields and cut off all the branches below 30 cm from the ground. The rhizome of the ten sisters should also be stripped of the stem thorns at the budding part to remove obstacles for operation.
The branches used for bud grafting should be full and strong branches of the year, and the buds in the middle of each branch are the most abundant and suitable. Peach, elm leaf plum and so on are often three buds together, that is, the leaf bud is in the middle and the two flower buds are on both sides. When taking buds, two lateral buds should be removed to avoid wasting nutrition.
For the branches used for bud grafting, the leaves should be cut off first (the petiole should be kept) to prevent the water in the branches from evaporating. Then keep it safe. You can dip the lower end of the branch into a bucket, or wrap it in a wet cloth and put it in a cool place.
bud grafting
There are many methods of bud grafting, such as patch bud grafting, T-bud grafting, I-bud grafting and tubular bud grafting. But no matter what method is adopted, it is important to connect the cambium of the grafted bud with the rootstock. Now, taking the first two budding methods as examples, the specific operation methods are introduced:
1. Block budding is a common budding method. Cut the upper, lower, left and right cortex with a bud grafting knife with appropriate size, and then gently lift the cut cortex with the tip of the knife. Similarly, dig a square cortex in the selected bud grafting part of the rootstock, and then stick the bud on it. Pay attention to the direction of bud grafting, the surrounding edges should be tight, and the operation should be rapid to prevent the bud from drying. It is common for someone to pick the bud piece and put it in his mouth immediately, and then take it out and paste it after the rhizome is slotted. After the flower bud is attached, it should be firmly tied with plastic tape, and the flower bud and attached petiole should be exposed when binding.
2.t-shaped bud grafting is also a common bud grafting method, because the buds taken are shield-shaped, so it is also called shield-shaped bud grafting. When cutting the bud slices, you can hang the branches upside down by hand, and make an oblique angle of 20-30 on the top of the bud with a knife 2 cm below the bud. Cut it to the position 1 cm above the bud, then cross-cut it here, and cut the bud together with the xylem to form a shield shape.
Cut a T-shape with a knife at the place where the rootstock is planned to sprout. The width of the horizontal line is about 1 cm, and the length of the vertical line is about 3 cm. Then cut the epidermis along the vertical line with the tip of the knife. Remove the attached wood from the prepared shield bud and insert the bud from top to bottom along the upturned cortex of the rootstock with petiole. Note that the upper edge of the inserted bud should be closely connected with the horizontal line on the rootstock. Finally, it is fixed with plastic tape as a mosaic method.
final-period management
The survival rate can be checked one week after bud grafting. If the petiole attached to the bud piece falls off when touched, the color of the bud piece remains green and vibrant, which is the sign of grafting, otherwise it can be repaired quickly.
After the bud grafting survives, the adhesive substance can be removed before germination in the following spring to avoid the inhibition of the bud grafting and rootstock growth. After budding, the rhizome on the upper part of the bud can be kept for 20 cm to 30 cm and cut off. When the grafted bud grows quite high, it is tied to it as a pillar blown by the wind. Part of its roots and buds can be temporarily reserved as roots to make nutrients, and the excess parts should be broken at will. Later, when the grafted buds grew vigorously, all the rootstocks were cut off.
In the maintenance after survival, we should pay attention to measures such as watering, fertilizing, loosening soil, weeding and drainage to promote the vigorous growth of seedlings. Generally, after one year's cultivation, it can be potted or planted in the next spring.
Breeding and management methods of frangipani
Propagation method: Cutting propagation is adopted. From June to August, 65438 in the south, and from June to August in the north, the branches cut from the base of the branches are 20-30 cm long, and white milk flows out from the incision. It needs to be placed in a cool and ventilated place for 2-3 days to make the wound form a protective film before cutting. Cutting with milk is perishable. Insert it into a clean vermiculite or sand bed or shallow sand basin, spray water after changing it, place it in a cool place indoors or outdoors, and spray water every other day to keep the substrate moist. After transplanting, it will see weak light when it is moved from 15 to semi-shade for 20 days, keep the temperature of 18-25℃ and the humidity of 65%-75%, take root in about 3 weeks, and pot it after 1 ~ 2 months. Cultivation management: Plumeria likes a warm, humid and sunny growing environment and is drought-tolerant. Plumeria is not strict with soil and should be planted in loose soil with more humus. Potting should be carried out after Qingming in spring. When planting, bare roots can be placed in pots and placed indoors after planting. You will see a weak light in a week, and you can put it in a sunny place after half a month. Pot soil can be mixed with 4 parts of garden soil, 4 parts of dry horse manure and 2 parts of river sand, and 50 grams of cake fertilizer or sauce residue 100, calcium superphosphate or bone meal are added to each pot. Potted plants should be placed outdoors in a ventilated place, and they can be exposed to the hot sun in midsummer. Water to prevent dry, but also to prevent too wet, otherwise the foundation is easy to rot, especially in the rainy season to prevent water in the basin and prevent root rot. From summer to growing season, water 1 once or twice every night, and dump the accumulated water in the basin in time to prevent it from raining in summer and autumn. Topdressing 1-2 times a month, and applying thin phosphorus fertilizer 1-2 times before flowering. If there is insufficient fertilizer, there will be few or no flowers. After defoliation in autumn, potted plants in the north should be moved indoors in the middle and late June of 65438+1October to prevent freezing and keep warm, and the room temperature above 5℃ can safely overwinter. Pay attention to ventilation and see the light. Room temperature should be above 10℃. Low temperature and poor indoor ventilation will make plants fall leaves, so water them indoors once every two weeks. Plumeria grows rapidly and needs to be changed once a year in spring, usually in a flowerpot with a diameter of 30 cm. Potted soil is mixed with phosphate-rich materials such as bone powder and superphosphate as base fertilizer to ensure more flowers. After changing pots for planting and watering, Grain Rain moved back and forth to a sunny place outside.
Milan's maintenance methods
Milan is a perennial evergreen shrub with leaves and flowers. It has green branches, many branches, dense leaves, beautiful plant shape, golden color and pleasant fragrance. To preserve potted Milan, you should master the following skills:
First, fertilization techniques are generally applied once a month, mainly organic fertilizers and high-efficiency phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, and nitrogen fertilizers cannot be applied in a partial manner. Apply 25-30g of decomposed and deodorized peanut cake fertilizer, rapeseed cake fertilizer or tea seed cake fertilizer,15-20g of potassium dihydrogen phosphate or high-efficiency biological phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to each pot at a time, then mix 2-3kg of decomposed and deodorized human and animal manure with clean water and spray.
Second, watering skills should keep the basin soil moist all the year round. Don't crack when it is dry, but it can't be too wet for too long, otherwise it will rot, rot and yellow leaves. Generally, water is poured once a day in summer and autumn, and once every 2 ~ 3 days in winter and spring, so that water can quickly penetrate into the basin soil and not accumulate on it. At the same time, it is necessary to spray clear water on the branches and leaves frequently, especially when it is hot in summer and dry in winter. All branches and leaves should be sprayed evenly before dripping, so as to keep the branches and leaves moist.
Third, spraying skills potted Milan is seriously damaged by pests such as powdery mildew, leaf spot, anthracnose, red spider, scale insect, aphid and rust tick, which makes the branches and leaves yellow and die. Every 15 ~ 20 days, the leaves can be sprayed with 25 ~ 30 times of dry and pure clarified liquid leached by plant ash and calcium superphosphate or 0. 1% limewater clarified liquid. The maintenance of wintering Milan is a kind of flower that people like, but its nature is heat-resistant and cold-resistant.
In order to ensure the safe overwintering of family potted Milan, we must pay attention to the following points: Stop fertilizing in autumn. Milan likes fat, but it should be stopped at the end of autumn, so as not to promote new buds in advance and be prone to frostbite. If the shoots are tender in late autumn or early winter, they should be cut off. In order to promote the senescence of new shoots, potassium fertilizer can be applied again after the last flowering (that is, from September to 10). Control water in winter. When the temperature is around 10℃, Milan stops growing and enters the dormant period. At this time, the evaporation is very small, as long as the soil has a certain humidity. Too wet soil will lead to root rot. It is best to water it once every 20 days or so.
The specific situation depends on the basin quality and weather. Water should be done at noon on a sunny day, water should be poured through the heart, and the branches and leaves should be washed with a watering can to keep their leaves clean. In spring, potted Milan will move out of the house in due course. When the indoor temperature is below 5℃, you can put on a plastic bag (the upper part must be ventilated). But the bagging time should not be too long, otherwise the leaves will fall and mold will appear.
The temperature changes greatly in early spring, so it is not advisable to go out early. Generally speaking, it is safe and reliable to keep the average daily temperature above 65438 02℃ in Tomb-Sweeping Day. When leaving the room, first move the flowerpot to the doors and windows of the south-facing room, open the doors and windows, let it exercise in the outdoor air, and then move it outside after 3 to 5 days.