How to prune the rose branches against the wall
And make it as beautiful as possible. If there are many buds in the same place, cut some.
Since it is against the wall, the branches against the wall must be thick to prevent lodging.
Cut off the branches according to the ugly ones, leave the beautiful ones, spend more and spend less.
This principle
The following are some methods and techniques of garden pruning for your reference.
The pruning period of ornamental trees in gardens can be divided into growth period (spring or summer) and dormancy period (winter).
In the process of pruning ornamental trees in the garden, a beautiful tree shape can be cultivated by mastering the correct pruning method and reasonable pruning. Pruning can further adjust the rational distribution of nutrients, inhibit excessive growth, promote flower bud differentiation, realize the early flowering and fruiting of young trees, prolong the full flowering and fruiting period, and revitalize old trees. There are three ways to prune trees in winter, which can be summarized as cutting, thinning and tillering.
First, cutting is also called cutting, that is, cutting off some branches. Its main purpose is to stimulate the germination of lateral buds, grow new buds, increase the number of branches and produce more leaves and flowers. According to the degree of chopping, it can be divided into the following categories:
1. Light and short cutting: Light cutting the top of branches (cutting off 1/5— 1/4 of the total length of branches), which is mainly used to trim the robust branches of flowers and fruits. This pruning method stimulates the germination of most semi-full buds at the lower part of the branches after the top tip is removed, which disperses the nutrients of the branches, so that the branches of ornamental flowers and fruit trees in the garden can grow more short and medium branches in the coming year, which is easy to form flower buds.
2. Short-medium cutting: cutting off full buds (the cutting length is1/3-1/2) in the middle or upper part of branches, which is mainly used for rejuvenation of some weak branches and cultivation of backbone branches and extension branches of various trees.
3. Rough and short shears: cut off 2/3-3/4 of the total length of branches. This pruning method has a great stimulating effect, and is mainly used for the renewal and rejuvenation of weak trees, old trees and old weak branches.
4. Extremely heavy and short cutting: leave 1-2 dead buds at the base of the tree belt, and cut off all the others. Lagerstroemia indica often uses this method in gardens.
5. Retraction: It means cutting off some perennial branches. Because trees grow for many years, they are far from the top of branches and their legs are easily exposed at the base. In order to reduce the dominant position of the top and promote the renewal and rejuvenation of the base of perennial branches, retraction pruning is often used.
Second, thinning is also called thinning or thinning. Pruning branches from meristem can adjust the uniform distribution of branches, increase space and improve ventilation and light transmission conditions, which is beneficial to the growth and development of branches in crown and the differentiation of flower buds. The objects of thinning are mainly pests and diseases, dead branches, too dense cross branches and so on.
Third, except tillering, remove the tender branches or roots that grew in the same year near the base of the trunk and the wound of the tree. Avoid these branches and tillers that hinder the tree shape and disperse the nutrients of the tree.
Pay attention to the following questions when pruning trees:
1. Trim branches with a smooth cut, starting from the opposite side of the cut. The upper part of the incision is flush with the cut bud tip, and the lowest part of the incision is flush with the bud base, so that the cut wound is small, easy to heal and the bud grows quickly after germination. Cut off the openings of sparse branches at the branch points and connect them with the stems, leaving no residual piles. Shrubs with sparse branches are flush with the ground. The direction and quality of cutting buds determine the growth direction of new branches and new branches. The direction of bud cutting should be considered from the distribution of branches in the crown and the expected growth of new branches. When the crown needs to expand outward, the cut buds should be left outside the branches. If the lumen is empty, the direction of bud cutting should be inward. For branches that grow too vigorously, weak buds should be selected as cutting buds, and strong buds should be selected when supporting weak branches.
2. When pruning larger branches and trunks, step-by-step operation can be adopted. First, cut the kerf upward from the lower part of the branch at a position 20 cm above the required kerf, the depth is half of the thickness of the branch, and cut off the branch from the upper part, leaving a residual pile, and then saw off the residual pile from the kerf to prevent the wall of the branch from cracking.
3. When cutting large branches, the wound is large and often rots due to rain or bacterial invasion. So when sawing branches, the kerf must be smooth, disinfected with 20% copper sulfate solution, and finally coated with protective agent (protective wax, ready mixed paint, etc. It can prevent corrosion and dryness and promote healing.
4. The pruning period of deciduous trees and evergreen trees should be different. In winter, deciduous trees stop growing and then prune, resulting in less nutrient loss and faster wound healing. Although evergreen trees are dormant in winter, cutting off branches and leaves is in danger of freezing injury. Because the roots and branches of evergreen trees are active all year round, the metabolism has not stopped, so the nutrients in the leaves are not completely used for storage. Cut off branches and leaves, lose nutrients and affect the growth of trees. Evergreen trees are usually pruned in late spring after winter.
5. When pruning, tools should be kept sharp, and trees should be placed on machinery and ladders. Before use, check whether all components are flexible and loose to prevent accidents. Fasten the safety rope when climbing the tree. When working near high-voltage lines, pay special attention to safety to avoid electric shock, and ask the power supply department to cooperate if necessary. When pruning roadside trees, special personnel will be arranged to maintain the site to prevent sawing off large branches and injuring passers-by and vehicles. One is the pruning and shaping of street trees.
Street trees refer to trees planted neatly on both sides of the road, and each road has the same tree species. In cities, street trees planted on main roads are mainly used to beautify the city appearance, improve the urban microclimate, increase temperature and decrease temperature in summer, retain dust and provide shade. Street trees require spreading branches, open crowns and dense branches. The crown shape depends on the overhead lines and traffic conditions of the planting site. On the main roads and general roads, regular tree crowns are used and trimmed to form three-dimensional geometric shapes such as cups and open hearts. Natural crowns can be used on roads or narrow lanes where no motor vehicles pass.
Street trees generally use tall tree species, and the trunk height should be 2 m-2.5 m, and the trunk height of street trees in suburban roads and streets can reach more than 4m-6m-6 m. After planting street trees, they should be pruned every year to enlarge the crown, adjust the extension direction of branches, increase the shading and heat preservation effect, and also consider the use and lighting of buildings. The second is the pruning and shaping of cup-shaped street trees.
Cup-shaped street trees have a typical crown shape of three forks, six strands and twelve branches. After germination, 3-5 branches with different directions and evenly distributed at an angle of 45 degrees with the trunk are selected as the main branches, and the rest are stripped or thinned in stages. In winter, the main branches are cut into 80 cm- 100 cm long, and the cut buds remain on the side and the same plane. The top of young paulownia Fraxinus is better. When applying shoots, the upright main branches can be temporarily retained to promote the lateral growth of cutting buds; In the winter of the third year, the lateral branches of 1-2 were selected as extension branches and cut short at 80cm- 100cm. The cut buds are left on the branches, and the original temporary upright branches and cross branches are removed. After repeated pruning, a cup-shaped crown can be formed after 3-5 years.
After the skeleton is formed, the crown of the tree expands rapidly, sparse and dense branches and upright branches, promote lateral branches, properly retain internal branches and increase the shading effect. When there are overhead lines above, don't let the branches touch the lines, and keep a certain distance according to the regulations. Generally, the telephone line is 0.5m, and the high-voltage line 1m or more. Street trees near the side of the building should be cut short at any time to prevent branches from sweeping tiles, blocking doors and windows and affecting indoor lighting and safety.