Is the orchid in Linghe District, Jinzhou City heated by primary heat or secondary heat?

Phalaenopsis, also known as Phalaenopsis orchid, is a perennial epiphyte. Mainly distributed in the Philippines, Malay Peninsula and Taiwan Province of China. Its flowers are shaped like flying butterflies and colorful, making it an international fashion for precious flowers. Phalaenopsis tissue culture seedlings are sold in 5 growth stages from flowering to flowering: seedlings, seedlings, seedlings, large seedlings, and flowering stage. The key points of cultivation and management are as follows.

First, pre-management. During the plant growth and development stage, the optimal growth temperature is 25℃-28℃ during the day and 18-20℃ at night. The optimal growth temperature for the seedling stage is 23°C. Above 35°C or 10°C, growth stops. The temperature of the seedlings just leaving the bottle should be below 20°C, the relative humidity of the air should be maintained at 70-80%, and the light should be controlled at 1000 lux. The light goes through a transition period, gradually increasing to 10,000 lux and continuing to 15,000 lux.

Management of fertilizer and water during the growth stage of seedlings plays a decisive role. 3-5 days after tissue culture, fertilization and watering should not be carried out after the bottle is out of the bottle, and sterilization must be carried out immediately. Disinfect the leaves with carbendazim 1000 times, and spray ABT three times the next day. After a transition period of 3-5 days, the first flush of fertilization took place with a lot of No. 10 (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium ratio 30:10:10) 1800 times liquid spray control, and the peat was completely wet as a standard. Every day, I then spent a lot of spraying foliar fertilizer with No. 10 (30:10:10) 2500 times liquid. A week later, the second seedlings were irrigated with wet and dry fertilizers, with high nitrogen, low phosphorus, and low potassium fertilization principles.

After 4 months of incubation, when the seedlings have grown, you should repot them. The muscle tension of the natural fist and palm of the plant airtightness is lower than the standard. The airtightness can be very flexible, but it must have a unified standard. The basics of management in the seedling stage are similar to those in the seedling stage, but the light can be increased to 20,000 lux. Fertilization takes a lot of No. 8 and No. 1 (the ratios of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium are 20:10:20 and 20:20:20 respectively). During the seedling stage, attention should be paid to the tendency and growth of new leaves, generally placing things in place and turning the leaves regularly. Fertilization principles of low nitrogen, high phosphorus and potassium.

The seedlings enter the seedling stage after 4-6 months of cultivation. In the management method of seedlings, but fertilization took a lot of No. 1 (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium ratio 20:20:20).

Second, post-management. Flowering period management is part of the latter's growth. Low temperature promotes the flowering of Phalaenopsis, so in addition to meticulous management, the temperature should also be controlled. First, keep the temperature above 20°C for 2 months, and then within 45 days after the flower buds form when the night temperature drops below 18°C. During flower bud formation, the night temperature is maintained at 18-20°C and during the day at 25-28°C. It blooms after 3-4 months. The temperature during the flowering period is slightly lower, but not lower than 15°C. The pillars must be built after the flower buds protrude and stay, but the pillars have not yet been erected before the stems are stretched, and its stems are tied to the left side of the pillars. The elongation of the stem thickens the space.

The management of flower water and fertilizer is particularly important. Watering should be done at 10 am and avoid spilling water on the flowers. Exhaust fans ventilate, water, and flow fresh air, so residual moisture is dissipated wherever possible. Fertilization takes a lot of No. 2 (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium ratio is 10:30:20) 1000 times, depending on the actual situation of the Phalaenopsis itself.

Phalaenopsis is sensitive to soft rot and gray leaf spot. Rapid soft rot is contagious, so once discovered, isolate the infected strain immediately. Manganese zinc or biological prevention of diseased strains is representative. Generally, disinfection is performed once every 15 days. New technology in rural areas

Phalaenopsis protection

Cultivation media: Common cultivation media for Phalaenopsis are weeds and moss.

2. Temperature: To support Phalaenopsis at home, you must first ensure the temperature. Phalaenopsis likes high temperature and high humidity environments. The minimum temperature during the growth period should be kept above 15℃. The optimal temperature for Phalaenopsis growth is 16℃ to 30℃. In autumn and winter, winter and spring, winter temperatures are low and attention should be paid to heating. Generally, in rooms with winter heating equipment, the temperature is not difficult to achieve, but be careful not to put flowers directly on the radiator or close it too far. When the temperature is high in summer, you need to cool down and pay attention to ventilation. If the temperature is higher than 32°C, Phalaenopsis will usually enter a semi-dormant state to avoid continued high temperatures. During the flowering period before and after the Spring Festival, appropriate cooling is required to extend the observation time. When blooming is best, the night temperature should be controlled at 13°C to 16°C, but not lower than 13°C.

3. Watering: Phalaenopsis is native to virgin forests, where fog occurs at higher temperatures. The thick pseudobulbs of Phalaenopsis store nutrients and if the air temperature is lower than the leaves wrinkle and weaken. Therefore, Phalaenopsis is cultivated in a ventilated, protected environment with high humidity. The suitable air humidity for the growth of Phalaenopsis is 50-80%. Water the Phalaenopsis more when its roots are elongating during the vigorous period, and less during the dormant period after flowering. In spring and autumn, water once a day after five o'clock in the afternoon. In summer, when the plants grow vigorously, water once a day from nine o'clock and five o'clock in the afternoon. In winter, when the light is weak and the temperature is low, water once every two weeks. Watering should be done before ten o'clock in the morning. When the cold wave hits, it is not advisable to water to keep it dry, and then start watering again until the cold wave hits. The principle of watering is to see dry and then wet. When the surface of the cultivation substrate becomes dry, water it again. The temperature of the water should be close to room temperature.

Dry indoor air can be sprayed directly on the leaves with a sprayer, and the moisture can be seen on the leaves, but be careful not to spray flowers during the flowering period. Tap water should be stored for more than 72 hours before watering.

4 lights: Phalaenopsis is shaded, but it still needs to make the blue line receive part of the light, especially during flowering. Proper light can promote Phalaenopsis to bloom, and the gorgeous flowers will last, and should generally be placed indoors. A place with diffused light, not a place exposed to direct sunlight.

5 Ventilation: The normal growth of Phalaenopsis requires flowing fresh air, so it must be well ventilated, especially in the summer humidity. Domestic Phalaenopsis must have good ventilation to prevent heatstroke, but also to avoid infection by pests and diseases.

Nutrition: Fertilize Phalaenopsis throughout the year. Fertilization should not be stopped unless the temperature is low for a long time. During the flower bud differentiation period of Phalaenopsis in winter, stopping fertilizer is likely to result in no flowers or few flowers. During the growing season, spring and summer, apply thin liquid fertilizer, use organic fertilizer every 7-10 days, and also apply special nutrient solution to Phalaenopsis, but do not apply if there are flower buds, otherwise it is easy for the buds to fall at the beginning of the leaves. Effects of nitrogen and potassium fertilizers on leaves after flowering in summer. Phosphorus fertilizer can be used during the stem growth season in autumn and winter, but manage it carefully, about every 2-3 weeks. After fertilizing and watering several times, a large amount of water is needed to rinse the orchid pots and orchid plants in the afternoon to avoid residual inorganic salts from harming the roots.

7. Management: Flowers usually bloom around the Spring Festival, and the viewing period can last only 2 to 3 months. When flowers wither, the withered flowers should be cut back as soon as possible to reduce the consumption of nutrients. If the stem is cut off from the base at node number 4 to 5, it will bloom again after 2 to 3 months. However, excessive consumption of such plant nutrients is detrimental to growth in the coming years. If you want the flowers to bloom again, it is best to cut the stems as a base. When the matrix ages, it should be replaced in time. Otherwise, poor permeability will cause root rot, weakened plant growth or even death. It is usually advisable to repot in May when new leaves grow.

There are four reasons for cultivation failure:

1. Watering too frequently: Friends who cultivate Phalaenopsis are always worried about the lack of water for Phalaenopsis. No matter whether the cultivation medium is dry or not, watering every day Watering causes severe rot.

2. Temperature is too low: In most cases, usually Phalaenopsis plants bloom in early spring, and are generally appreciated when bought home, in living rooms, etc. In these places, although the temperature during the day is sufficient, the temperature at night is The temperature is a bit low. On the other hand, most professionals cultivate orchids in greenhouses that are well equipped, in contrast to the deficiencies of home temperature and humidity, which often make the plants weaker. Therefore, sometimes no matter how good the orchid is, it is still not protected when blooming.

Excessive fertilization: Fertilizing equipment, and not paying attention to the concentration, thinking that suitable fertilizer will grow faster. Notice Phalaenopsis fertilizer should be applied thinly, dozens of times. Also remember "supplements", don't overdose or be counterproductive.

4. Plant small plants in large pots: I feel that large pots can give Phalaenopsis a relaxed environment and sufficient materials. In fact, the plant is not easy to dry after a large pot. It should be noted that Phalaenopsis likes ventilation, and the general principle is comfortable gas.

A repotting

1. Selection of pots: Generally used for unglazed ceramic pots or plastic pots, porous pots are better, easy to breathe and appropriate shallow pots, the height of the pot is preferably smaller than the diameter of the pot.

2. The training matrix selected: Phalaenopsis is a typical epiphytic orchid. The root culture matrix it develops must have the characteristics of osteoporosis, ventilation, good air permeability, and rot resistance. According to the author’s experience, Phalaenopsis is improved in the north. Pine needle leaves, peanut shells, and bark filaments should be placed as substrates. A pot must be potted every year, and the shrinkage of potting rot, poor air permeability and growing blue lines is a serious recession and even death if not repotted in time.

3. Time and method of repotting: The best time to repot Phalaenopsis is spring and early summer, when the temperature is preferably higher than 20°C, just after the flowering period, and new roots are growing. When changing pots, first cut off the stems, and gently remove the old carcass from the lower part of the original nutrient bowl. Use your fingers to dig out the dry old roots, cut off the rusty roots, and chip the rubble at the bottom of the pot for paving, and remove sterile wet pine needles. When the pelvic floor is placed on the first floor, the roots of a Phalaenopsis are spread evenly into the basin, and then the blue lines on the roots of the pine needles are pressed gently, and the orchids are planted. When planting, you should pay attention to the blue line in the rhizome and spray it at the same height as the edge of the pot, and then place it in a well-ventilated place indoors. No fertilizer should be applied during this period. Just spray management and proper watering, and the buds will grow normally after a month. manage.

2. Temperature

Phalaenopsis is mainly distributed in tropical low-altitude coastal areas. The optimal growth and cultivation temperature is 25°C to 28°C during the day and 18°C ​​to 20°C at night. Phalaenopsis is very sensitive to low temperature. If it stays at 15°C for a long time, it will stop growing. When the temperature is lower than 15°C, the root system will absorb water, and the leaves will become necrotic and the leaves will start to turn yellow and fall off for a long time. During the climate variability of the Northland, during the previous winter and early spring of the following year (i.e. before and after the heating period), the indoor temperature cannot reach 15°C. This is the most difficult protection in this year. The blue line should be placed indoors with less sunlight. Water, if necessary, at night with blue line bagged insulated ground watering.

3. Watering

Phalaenopsis likes moisture, but avoid water accumulation. There is no lack of water during the growing season. If there is a long-term lack of water, the leaves will turn yellow and cannot be remedied.

The pine needles for Phalaenopsis cultivation do not accumulate water. Use a watering can to sprinkle water until the water flows out from the bottom of the pot. Sprinkle water around the orchid pot frequently to keep the air moist, but be careful not to accumulate water in the center of the orchid leaves, especially on the leaves where spraying water is prohibited on winter nights.

Fourth, fertilization

Phalaenopsis grows fast and has a long growth cycle, so thin fertilizer should be applied frequently. When repotting the blue line, do not fertilize while it is recovering. From June to September, during the growth period of the blue line, it should be applied once a week. Foliar fertilizer and potassium dihydrogen phosphate can be used alternately. It can also be used organically. Fertilize with water for fermentation. If possible, buy special fertilizer for orchids and "precious" liquid fertilizer diluted 2000 times with foliar spray and cultivation medium. Stop fertilizing in hot summer and then water and fertilize. In late autumn, the growth of blue lines slows down, and fertilization should be reduced. This often results in excessive fertilization and strong blue lines, which affects the formation of flower buds and prevents them from blooming.

Five, ventilated and cool place

Phalaenopsis likes ventilation to avoid high temperatures, poor ventilation, which can cause root rot, and poor growth. The temperature is low in winter, and ventilation is very short on sunny days at noon, and the vents do not blow directly to the blue line. Phalaenopsis grows naturally in the Alpur jungle and has developed a habit of liking half shade. Family planting should be shaded by shade in winter, shade in spring and autumn, strong summer sunlight, and high temperatures. Special attention should be paid to enhancing ventilation.

, Flowering period management

Due to the limitations of temperature and humidity, Phalaenopsis grown at home can only grow 2-3 leaves a year. The leaves are solitary and the flower buds grow on the two leaves in the middle. Flower buds are formed, and the temperature is between 18°C ​​and 0°C. Flowers can be protected for 3-4 days. When the flower stem is extracted, it is first temporarily supported in the flower pot to prevent the stem from lodging, and the stem is repaired multiple times to avoid stem breakage. The orientation of the flowerpot cannot be rotated when the first sprouts grow, otherwise the orientation of the Phalaenopsis flowers will be inconsistent. The temperature during the flowering period should be controlled at 15°C to 18°C ​​to enhance ventilation and humidity. The flowering period is April.

7. Pest and disease control

1. Leaf spot disease: mainly occurs on leaves. Small spots appear on the leaves in the early stage of the disease, and later develop into nearly round lesions. The edges of the lesions are yellow circles soaked in water with clear boundaries. Prevention and treatment methods: Strengthen ventilation, reduce air humidity, and cut off diseased leaves. During the onset period, spray 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder 800 times once every 10 days for 3 consecutive times.

2. Tomato gray mold: occurs when the temperature and humidity are low in spring, and small brown spots appear on the white petals. In severe cases, it can lead to soft rot. Prevention and control methods: Increase ventilation, reduce humidity, and cut off infected flowers immediately. In the early stage of the disease, spray 75% thiophanate methyl wettable powder 1000 times, once every 10 days, and spray twice.

3. Brown spot disease: occurs in the hot and humid weather in summer, mainly on the leaves. In the early stage of the disease, the leaves are round small spots, and then gradually expand into large on-site lesions that are dark brown. In severe cases, the leaves turn black and wither. Prevention and treatment methods: Pay attention to ventilation and light transmission. In the early stage of the disease, spray 80 times of 10% Polyan (Polyantimycin) every two weeks.

4. Scale insects: The most common insect pests of Phalaenopsis usually occur in autumn and winter. Poor indoor ventilation and dryness lead to scale insect damage. Control methods: Pay attention to ventilation and should not be placed too close to the blue line. Use a small amount of soft cloth to scrub the scale insects and repeat several times to eliminate the pests.