The historical origin of official robes.
The historical origin of official robes.
Bai Juyi recited in Tang Dynasty:? Xia rocked her crown, and she was full of admiration. ? Every time I read here, I will think of those married women in ancient times, wearing feather crowns and robes. I envy them very much. On the happiest day of their lives, they can dress up like this, embroidered robes, flowers and big Hong Xiuxie, with a touch of wealth and joy, as if their hearts were filled with happiness. I think the robe is originally the clothes of empresses, and the worship of heaven and earth is also a suburban gift of emperors, and the life of China folk women is also king.
Ancient aristocratic women often used phoenix as their crown ornaments. In the Ming dynasty, the crown of the queen's dress was decorated with four phoenixes in Kowloon. Four crested rockhoppers were unearthed in Dingling, Ming Shenzong, with different numbers of dragons and phoenixes. One of them is six dragons and three phoenixes. The dragon pattern is at both ends of the top, and the mouth is long with beads, which seems to have the meaning of playing the phoenix. There are three phoenix wings on the front. There are three halls on the left and right sides of the crown, which are like colorful phoenix tails after unfolding. The crown of the imperial concubine, the crown of the princess, and the crown of the crown princess. There are colorful pheasants in the village. There are no phoenixes on the crests of women from grade one to grade seven, and there are different numbers of pheasants embroidered on them.
Is that what Xiaguan calls it? Xiapi? 、? Silk? Named for its bright colors like rosy clouds. Embroider a piece of silk around your shoulders and hand it to your chest. "Shilin Guangji? Clothing category:? In Jin Yongjia, I made a crimson dizzy scorpion and let the princess take it all. ? The crown dress designated as a life woman in Song Dynasty is not allowed unless it is a gift. Since the Ming Dynasty, it has been the clothing of the Ming Dynasty. From the first grade in the palace to the ninth grade in the Ming Dynasty, it is all embroidered with different posts. Zi Kui appeared in the Southern and Northern Dynasties and got the name in Sui and Tang Dynasties. In the Song Dynasty, it was included in the formal attire. In the Ming dynasty, it developed into a Xiaguan? Because of its beautiful appearance like rosy clouds, it is named? Xia Wei? . It was widely used in the Ming Dynasty, and its shape was like a long colorful hanging belt. Each lower bar is 3 inches wide and 5 feet 7 inches long. When you take it, hang it around your neck on your chest, and hang a gold or jade pendant at the lower end.
Guan Feng Bi Xia's Clothing System
Bi Xia is the dress of ladies-in-waiting, and ordinary women can only wear it when they get married? According to the etiquette of China people, a big gift can win, that is, a ceremony, wedding and other occasions can be attended, and it is not overstepping. There are rules to follow in the color and pattern decoration of Ming-style Bi Xia. The difference in grades is mainly manifested in decorative patterns, which are listed as follows:
Xia Tie, a first-class and second-class prostitute, is a bronze embroidered Yunxia Zhai Wen (Zhai: the long-tailed pheasant;
The third and fourth products embroider cloud peacocks, and the fifth product embroider cloud mandarin ducks;
Six or seven products embroider Xia Yun and practice magpie patterns;
Eight or nine products are embroidered with school patterns.
According to "Da Ming Hui Dian" records: a suit, a big shirt, a long shirt: a shirt? Yellow, with two collars falling one foot straight and three buttons in the middle. The back is longer than the front, the line is folded, and the second button is attached at last. The button is under the cover. Please release it. Xia Wei? Side by side, with sharp seams, hang it in front of you, hang a pendant, and put the flat end in the triangle bag behind the big shirt. Deep blue as the quality, woven in Un-yong Kim, beaded. Kill the dragon with a jade pendant. Juyi: red, with dragons on the chest and back, decorated with beads. Four scorpions (scorpions): dark blue is the quality, and gold embroidery is the dragon text. Big band: the red line is for it, and it is destined. The rest are green or green. Edge coat: yellow. The red scarf is woven with gold and colorful Yunlong characters. Edge skirt: red. Green border, woven with gold and colorful Yunlong characters. Jade belt: green cymbals, depicting the language of Un-yong Kim. Ten jade ornaments and four gold ornaments. Jade flowers are knotted, red lines are knotted, and white jade clouds are made (if made, everything has a golden hook). Green socks are the same as those made in Zhai Yi.
According to the "Da Ming Hui Dian", secret service, phoenix crown: double phoenix dragon crown, taking soap pot as it. Attached to Mount Tripo. The golden dragon is decorated with one ornament, and the two pearls are decorated with emerald phoenix. There are beads in both populations. Peony flowers, pistils, green leaves, beaded temples, beaded clouds, etc. Sanbo Hall (left and right six * * *). There are two golden dragons, each with a bead knot.
Empresses in the Ming Dynasty and wives of Jiupin civil servants can wear them, with different colors, patterns, decorations and materials according to grades. In the Ming Dynasty, women in Shu Ren could also wear dresses with crests when they got married.
Bai Juyi recited in Tang Dynasty:? Xia rocked her crown, and she was full of admiration. ? Women can enjoy the honor of wearing a crowned dress when they get married. This traditional custom has been widely circulated among Zhejiang people for more than 800 years. How can a girl dress up so noble when she gets married, like an emperor? Queen? Sit side by side and enjoy such a supreme honor?
There is a touching story circulating here:
Corruption occurred in the Southern Song Dynasty, and Jin Wushu invaded the capital Lin 'an (Hangzhou). Zhao Gou, the King of Kang, was defeated by Jin Bing and fled south. After crossing Qiantang and Cao E, the nomads from China are still in hot pursuit. Kang Wang then went straight to Ninghai after Fenghua. When I arrived at Xidian Qianjin Village, I suddenly saw a ruined temple on the roadside, and a village girl sat on the threshing floor in front of the temple. When the village girl saw that Kang Wang had escaped, she used her quick wits and told Kang Wang to hide in the grain basket and sit on it casually. When the nomads from the army chased the girl and asked if anyone was passing by, the village girl unhurriedly pointed with her hand and said that they had fled to the south. Nomads from the letter, go south. As a result, Kang Wang escaped death. Kang Wang cheated the village girl of Jinbing with clever tricks, which made him very grateful. He immediately promised the girl that if she regained the throne, she could? Queen? In name, when you get married, you can enjoy the privilege of sitting in a sedan chair, wearing a phoenix crown and wearing a gown. Soon, Kang Wang was saved and returned to the Golden Hall. He promised the old village girl? Golden mouth and jade words? With this in mind, I decided to give this village girl a title. Queen? When you get married, you can really enjoy the special honor of the official robe. At the same time, the ruined temple was built, and the handwritten inscription was? Huang Feng Temple? . Later, rural girls followed suit when they got married, wearing robes with hat badges. This custom is found all over Zhejiang, which is well-known by people? Zhejiang women are kings? This story. This custom spread for more than 800 years and was not abolished until after liberation.
Interpretation of the official robes.
Guan Feng Xia Dian (F? Jiagong xi? p？ I)
Explain the dress of the old rich woman when she got married to show her glory. It also refers to the costumes of ancient aristocratic women and women sealed by the court.
Source 1. Yuan? Yang Xianzhi's "Xiaoxiang Rain" is the fourth fold: I take off this golden flower and eight treasures, take off this colorful shoulder and give it to Miss Zhang for makeup. I would like to be a messenger to Mei. ?
2. "Wake up the world?" Zhang Tingxiu ran away to save his father:? By candlelight, the black veil is crimson, and the crested dragon robe is beautiful. ?
3. A Dream of Red Mansions? The fifth time: there is a pot of Maolan in the back, and next to it is a beautiful woman wearing a rockhopper and a summer dress. There is another saying: peaches and plums bear fruit in spring, who will end up like an orchid? If Bingshui is so jealous, it is a joke with others.
Cihai
Cocktail: a top hat worn by ancient aristocratic women. In the Ming and Qing dynasties, the colorful crowns used by ordinary women as ornaments were also called rockhopper crowns, which were mostly used for weddings.
Xiapi: 1. A shawl worn by ancient women. After the Song Dynasty, it was designated as a life jacket, which varied with the grade. The Ming Dynasty made detailed regulations on Bi Xia, ranging from Grade 1 to Grade 9, each with its own differences.
2. An expensive Taoist costume.
The rockhopper is named after the phoenix ornaments. Phoenix is the king of birds, so only the queen or princess deserves it. Usually it is only worn at grand celebrations, such as weddings, and ordinary people can't wear it at all.