Visit Hulunbeier grassland again
Early summer, a season suitable for wandering around, I set off for Hulunbeier, which I miss very much. Grassland is my old friend. I met in just three days last year, and the timeless scenery and memories attracted me to come here again-I want to spend more time walking and getting to know this land.
I didn't expect to see it for a year. Today's grassland surprises me and makes me sigh.
The blue sky and white clouds overhead remain unchanged, but the grassland in front of us is dying: the drought for many days has made the world's first meandering river, the Le River in the morgue, obviously thin, and the earth is bare-withered grass can no longer cover the sand under its feet, and the grass without rain has stopped growing. The face of the grassland is yellow and haggard I can't bear to see it, but there's nothing I can do.
After all, grass is weak. Before each season comes and goes, the continuous drought will kill Fang's soul.
God seems to think that this scene is not bleak enough. I was walking on the grass slope in the sunset when I suddenly saw a dark white cotton ball crawling in the grass in the distance. A few steps closer, I recognized it as a lamb. Soft, so naive lying next to a bunch of peony flowers. How did it leave in a hurry? Where is its mother? Such a little creature is lying on the yellow grassland in ignorance when it should be carefree and cheerful. ...
Trauma makes two hearts flesh and blood, and scar is a person's true face;
I really know a friend by saying sorry to each other. Perhaps, after seeing these pains and listlessness, I really understood the grassland.
In addition to the torture of nature, manpower is also worse. There are many new scratches on the grass-this is a new gravel road that is being repaired. On the land where the grass was still continuous last year, the thin and deep blade pierced and brought up smoke.
Our car galloped on these cement roads symbolizing modern civilization and came to Ergon in the dust.
Ergon is a small city, south of the densely populated Yangtze River. A place with less than100000 people can only be called a town, but it is already an important transit city on the vast grassland. The main roads in the city are mainly four-lane Hassall Street and Ergon Street. During the day, the streets are empty. At 8 o'clock in the evening 10, the sun sets and Hassall Square becomes lively. Hassall, leaning on a horse and holding a bow, looked solemn and looked at the people dancing in the square dance at his feet.
I walked back from the comparable Hassall Square and left the road. There are low bungalows on both sides of the road. People here don't seem to pay attention to living conditions.
The yellow red brick wall, the crumbling wooden fence, the rough tin roof and the simple signboard are silent in the afterglow of the sunset. Most of the houses are closed, there is no one in front of them, and there are few pedestrians on the road. Only three or five little stray dogs wandered around the corner, watching me walk by in confusion.
I stopped at the door of the shop opposite the Wetland Park and opened the purple bead curtain. The proprietress has a high nose, thick eyebrows, red and black face and thick lines. She praised my skin with a cheerful and loud voice and insisted that I was from the south: "We can't do it here, the wind is strong, and my skin is blown away."
"But the scenery here is so beautiful!" I reciprocate with praise.
"That's not! I just like watching flowers on the grassland. Oh, these flowers are so beautiful! " She sighed and turned to regret: "Girl, why did you come at this time? After working for a long time, the grass is gone! Hey. "
I also sigh, but what can I do? I can't just choose to see the beauty of the grassland. I have admired her beauty, and now I have to see her inner pain. Is it true acquaintance and companionship?
(2) Lin Hai Song Tao
The next morning, we set out from Ergon, left the grassland and headed for Daxinganling. Before entering the forest area, you need to go to the "forest fire prevention headquarters" in the urban area to apply for the "forest grassland fire prevention pass", with one car and one license. According to the tour guide, there will be inspections at the main road checkpoints in the forest area.
Shortly after leaving the city from Ergon, the plains on both sides of the highway gradually rose and fell-we approached Daxing 'anling step by step.
At noon 12, we arrived at Oruguya Reindeer Park in Ewenke, genhe city.
My knowledge of the ancient Ewenki people in Aolu lies in the murals and antiquities in the Ewenki Museum in Hailar, and Chi Zijian's Mao Dun literature prize-winning work Right Bank of Ergon River. I'm here today, and I finally want to see the real thing. I think Chi Zijian may have been here when he was collecting wind on the right bank of the Ergon River.
The reindeer park is built in the pine forest on the roadside, and the winding wooden plank road in the forest leads us to an open space, where the Ewenki tent "Cuozi" made of birch bark stands (usually about three meters high, with an unlit stove in the middle and three beds around the stove), and there is also a warehouse made of tree trunks "leaning against the old treasure". One hundred years ago, the wife of the last chief of Aoluguya Ewenki-"
Words and stories always have a kind of magic, which makes the deceased instantly emit charming brilliance.
Where are the reindeer? They are happy-go-lucky, sitting or lying down, with innocent eyes shining in their big round eyes, walking through screaming and frolicking tourists. Since the last group of Aoluguya Ewenki people left the forest and were placed at the foot of the mountain, no one has ridden it anymore. Are they used to this captive life now?
I remember that after the Wenchuan earthquake, the Qiang people in Xige Village in Wenchuan were relocated from the mountains to other places outside the mountains and left their hometown. Shan Ye's living habits, together with the priest's beliefs, were gradually abandoned and replaced by the "economic interests" and "peer pressure" of the town. I'm afraid not many people will benefit from such modernization, but it's not easy to keep the tradition.
At two o'clock in the afternoon, we arrived at Mo 'erdaoga, and entered the embrace of Songtao, the beautiful forest in Daxing 'anling.
Dense pine trees stand upright, branches are open, and majestic green is sprayed into the sky.
White clouds wander between heaven and earth like relief, sometimes sighing veils and sometimes blowing white smoke; Sometimes the purge seems to blow the assembly number, and sometimes it seems to play a flowing song.
Is there a group of people on the cloud, like us, running and sightseeing?
If so, will they envy us for walking in the depths of the jungle and the green of our fingertips?
Mordoga, a small town in the hinterland of the forest, is our destination today.
Sunset grass trees, the humanity that Temujin once stationed. Mo 'erdaoga means to mount a horse and go to war in Mongolian. According to legend, it was named after Temujin's trip to worship ancestors before unifying Mongolian ministries. On his way to Shiwei, the birthplace of Mongolia, Temujin saw the mountains and lush trees here, and he couldn't help being heroic and shouting "Mo 'erdaoga" and decided to unify the various ministries of Mongolia.
Today, this town of more than 20,000 people is quiet and serene, and the main buildings are related to forestry and fire prevention. There were not many cars on the road, so we wandered around the town and couldn't help running. The hotel where I stayed tonight is at the end of the town, next to the dense forest. Breathing with the forest all night, my eyes, ears and heart were quiet. I didn't realize it was late in the morning.
In the morning, I was refreshed and went to Longshan Park, a free scenic spot recommended by the local tour guide. In fact, the park is a hill in Daxing 'anling. The winding wooden plank road runs through the pine forest. Red pine needles are colorful under their feet, and cuckoos are cooing in the forest. We climbed to the top of the mountain three times, five times and twice in less than half an hour and looked around. Daxinganling is covered with a furry green blanket, and the blue town of Moldoga holds fast to the continuous green hills.
The forest is also insufficient. 10: 30, we came to Moldoga National Forest Park, the main attraction of Moldoga, and continued to look at the forest from another angle.
Recently, the park is under repair, and tickets are free, but we can't see many scenic spots mentioned in the Raiders, but the forest train is unimpeded.
The train was built and opened for sightseeing on 20 14. It runs for 80 minutes with four stops.
The soil layer here is only 15-20 cm, and there are sand layer and frozen soil layer below. So this mountain forest can only grow cold-resistant, drought-resistant and barren trees.
On both sides of the railway track are larch, a characteristic tree species in Daxing 'anling. Freezing weather makes Larix gmelinii have a frost-free period of up to 80 days in a year. In autumn, they excrete the water stored in the trunk, the pine needles turn yellow and fall off, and they begin to enter a dormant period, and their growth is stagnant. In this way, in the past twenty years, larch can only be regarded as young, and its trunk is only the thickness of a mineral water bottle. But larch wood is hard, and the rail sleepers of forest trains are all larch wood.
The first stop of the train is the Pinus sylvestris forest. Pinus sylvestris var. mongolica. Quercus mongolica grows on the hillside of 500-800 meters. Because the trunk contains more fat and has stronger cold resistance, it does not need to shed leaves and grows all year round. Important differences between Pinus sylvestris var. mongolica and Pinus densiflora. Pinus sylvestris var. mongolica and larch are the backbone of Pinus sylvestris var. mongolica. Camphor trees over three meters are yellow brown instead of dark brown of larch. Pinus sylvestris var. mongolica. Mongolian wood has soft wood, which can be used as furniture and train lining.
The second stop is the beautiful forest in the garden, and the hillside is mixed with larch and birch trees. The locals call it "eight pine trees and two birch trees"-you can definitely find two birch trees next to eight larches. Dendrolimus punctatus, the natural enemy of larch, is only afraid of the special smell emitted by birch trees. The existence of birch avoids the occurrence of larch diseases and insect pests, and the two tree species are interdependent.
However, birch can grow to 25 meters, while larch can grow to 35 meters. The grown larch blocked the sunshine of the birch tree and made the "mother" decline and die. Larch without the shelter of birch trees will die of pests again. The mountains became depressed and lonely again.
However, the vast world after the fall of larch made the birch grow again. The new life cycle begins again. The longest life span of larch is about 150 years, and that of birch is 80 years. This tangle of life and death will be repeated every 300 years.
The third stop is Linxi River. The tranquil Moldoga River flows through here and flows into the Ergon River from east to west.
The fourth stop is the forest ranch. The real Ewenki people use tweezers here. When people left the house, the tarpaulin made of birch bark was worn out, and the path covered with pine needles in front of the door was gradually softened by water in the forest.
After leaving Mordoga Forest Park, we will continue to go north along the national border. In the next trip, we will pass through several border towns where Russians live in concentrated communities.
(3) Northland Border Town
At noon, we passed Taiping Village, a small village with only a dozen families. It is said that the residents here are employees and family members of the former Taiping Forest Farm. They don't want to move to Mordoga with the forestry department, so they continue to guard the small village where their ancestors lived.
The wooden bungalow where we stopped is a century-old house built in 1908, and it is also a typical wooden building "Mukereng" where local Russian descendants once lived.
The owner of the restaurant with a high nose and deep purpose greets the guests very kindly. I looked at the old family photos hanging on the wall. The old man in the photo, both physically and mentally like Bi Xiao, makes people sigh. Besides the magical power of blood, what else can this old house inherit?
While we were eating, the dark clouds came to the top and a strong wind suddenly blew. A few minutes later, the roof cracked-it rained! I want to jump for joy. The arid grassland is saved!
When I walked out of the hotel and put up my umbrella, I found it was raining. Particles of stone hit the car glass and jumped one after another.
We continued to gallop along the Sino-Russian border river in the pouring rain and hail, and only had time to glance at the scenic spot "Eagle Mouth" on the way. At three o'clock, we arrived at Linjiangtun, where we rested today.
Linjiangtun, like Taiping Village, is a small village under the jurisdiction of Ergun City, inhabited by Russians. This small village is named after facing the Ergon River.
Hundreds of years ago, the Sino-Russian "Nebuchadnezzar Chu Treaty" stipulated that the border between the two countries is the Ergon River, with flowing water, lush shrubs and green hills on both sides, and the scenery does not vary due to artificial division. Barbed wire and fences can only stop us clumsy humans.
We stood on the right bank of the Ergon River, waiting for the sunset. Seeing the sunset getting closer and closer to the mountains, it suddenly shines. The fallen birch trunk seems to be covered with gold, and the sunset glow floats on the river. People on the river bank were shrouded in such beautiful scenery, holding their breath, feeling that after only two or three minutes, suddenly the light disappeared-the sunset was out of sight.
(4) Grassland Night
At 9 o'clock the next morning, we set out for Heishantou Town. Daxinganling quickly receded behind us, and the grassland gradually came on.
Clouds are peonies in the sky, and their petals are white and pure.
When passing through Shiwei, the birthplace of Mongols, a thousand clouds are magnificent and solemn, as if waiting for the call of dragons. Although Shiwei is only a small village with less than 2,000 people, its name contains a quiet heroism.
As early as the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the Shiwei people who lived here probably could not imagine that their descendants, Mongols, would dominate Eurasia. By the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Republic of China, Russians migrated across the Ergon River, gradually making it the only Russian ethnic township in China.
At noon, we arrived at today's destination, Heishantou. The mountain named after the black peak stands out among the green hills, which makes people wonder: Why is the top of this mountain black? The locals can't explain it. It seems that what you see is what you name.
1689, after the signing of the Sino-Russian Nebuchadnezzar Chu Treaty, the Qing government set up Kalun (post station) along the Ergon River, in which the third, fourth, fifth and sixth cards were all in Heishantou. We snapped a post on a speeding car (no parking is allowed according to the regulations), and the red roof is particularly distinct between the blue sky and the green space.
Sunset in Montenegro is the main attraction on the northbound route. We climbed the "Sunset Mountain" dedicated to watching the sunset, overlooking the distant land at the foot of the mountain, and the banks of the river were overgrown with shrubs, just like the scenery of Ergon wetland. The sunset here is not as bright and soft as that on the Ergon River in Linjiangtun.
After seeing the sun off with the crowd watching the sunset, we sat in the car and suddenly found that the falling sun left us a surprise! Plumes of ochre-colored glow floated from the hills of the sunset, woven into thin warm curtains, attached to mountains, clouds and land, and woven longer and longer, drifting all the way. Only then did I realize the silent attachment and gentleness of the sunset in Montenegro.
At nine o'clock in the evening, the setting sun faded away, and the horizon slowly turned blue, dark blue and black ... As night fell, I held this leaf in my arms, like covering the earth with a thick quilt, and the small lights in the yurt accommodation and three or two houses, like children hiding under the covers and peeking at stories. Besides, we can't see anything.
This is the real night.
I don't know when the night was hollowed out-
The stars are shining like diamonds.
Like the eyes of an innocent child, innocent. Those who shine especially must be lively and cheerful athletes, and those who have been silent for a long time should be cool and witty talented teenagers.
Like an elf in a fairy tale forest, it should be a lively rabbit, or a proud lion king in COVID-19. The timid Jiao Jiao must be a timid and sensitive roe deer.
Looking at them makes people feel pure and peaceful in an instant.
These stars are so close to me that they will soon fall into my arms. If I can put one down and stop for a while, I can't wait to warm it and take care of it.
But my local friends told me that the deeper the night, the more charming the starry sky. Near one o'clock in the morning, the stars bloom only for night owls who are awake and waiting patiently.
In the middle of the night, the felt cloth of yurts creaked, and the wind brought Cleisthenes and nasal sounds far or near, weaving lullabies for the children in the grassland.
(5) Sandstorms are rampant.
At 8: 30 in the morning, we set off from Heishantou, getting closer and closer to Manzhouli, and the trip ended.
The road is like a winding Youlong carrying us to heaven, and vilen on both sides falls back in vain. Their faces were yellow and haggard. It seems that yesterday's rainstorm in Taiping Village did not penetrate into the land here.
"Attention, see you later in the desert!" The tour guide reminded us.
I was just about to ask why there is a desert on the grassland. Suddenly, the smoke from all over the sky came rushing over, and the sand flowed on the ground like a snake. Gray dust curtain is flying in the sky, and several low-rise houses are resigned in the sand. It's like an abandoned ancient Gobi city.
It is said that this area is a desertified land formed in the last twenty years. In the face of this scene, we were all silent when everyone rushed to take pictures just now.
Fortunately, one kilometer away, we saw the grassland again, but the sand was particularly deep in our memory. It turns out that they are one of the three sand belts in Zuo Qi of Xinbaerhu, and their existence is only an example of land desertification in Hulunbeier. In 2004, the desertification area reached1million hectares, and Hulunbeier has become the fourth largest sandy land in China.
The increase in the number of people and animals and the arid and windy plateau climate are the causes of grassland desertification. There are also barbed wire to cut the grass into pieces of fixed grass, which also helps. The real nomadic and rotational grazing mode was ended by this system of dividing pastures into families. Grassland has no rest, inferior grassland has degenerated into sandy land, and high-quality grassland is also in jeopardy.
How easy is it to achieve the "balance between grass and livestock" advocated by the government? Without the planning and arrangement for the long-term life of traditional herders, "man-made disasters" can never be truly solved.
Millions of square kilometers of vast grassland, if we can't gather as many folk forces as possible, I'm afraid it will be difficult to turn the tide with limited government attention.
These sands have been raging for twenty years. Will they expand? Can you shrink it? Herdsmen hope to have a hearty shower, even if people are thirsty to dig wells in the rain. Who says this has nothing to do with us strangers? If the beauty of cattle and sheep paradise disappears, where can our souls wander?
(6) A glimpse of the lake
Deep in the grassland, Hulun Lake is the fifth largest freshwater lake in China and the largest lake in Northeast China. In Mongolian, her name is D 'Alenor. In Mongolian legends, she and Bellek are spoony children, which is the origin of Hulunbeier's name.
The rectangular Hulun Lake has a circumference of nearly 500 kilometers and a maximum area of more than 2,000 square kilometers. The flowing water brought by the Krulun River in outer Mongolia melts in Hulun Lake and flows into the Ergon River with the lake. The place where we should stop and watch should be the west bank of the lake, the barren slope of hay, and the dusty place. Fortunately, Hulun Lake is still sparkling and dotted. The lake is deep blue, breathing smoothly and gently in the strong wind, just like a goddess full of motherhood.
Less than an hour's drive from Hulun Lake is Manzhouli, the largest land port city in China.
The name "Manzhouli" comes from the Russian title in the late Qing Dynasty. This CPC town with a population of only 300,000 is already the most prosperous city in the northeast border. Due to its proximity to Russia, the city has a strong Russian flavor. Olive-green steel towers, red and white castles, lake-blue triangular spires, rainbow-colored ice cream cone domes ... Under the blue sky and white clouds within reach of the Northeast Asian Plateau, these buildings seem to grow in the clouds.
The dark blue night chases the sunset and hangs over the city. The majestic Russian bell tower in the square shines brightly, and the tall buildings, streets and bridges are as bright as goose yellow crystals.
Manzhouli is a world full of childlike interest.
(7) eat drink man woman
What the locals call "Mongolian cuisine", that is, Mongolian cuisine, can often be seen in towns all over the grassland.
Among them, the famous pot tea is a daily drink that grassland herders drink like water. Mix milk and brick tea with water and boil, then pour into a copper pot with a little millet, beef jerky and milk skin and heat until boiling. You can drink them. The fire under the pot continues to boil, and the milk tea in the pot is getting stronger and stronger. It is packed in a strong wooden bowl without sugar. The faint milk flavor and tea flavor contain the fragrance of grains and a little salty taste of meat, which is not greasy. A table of dishes surrounded the pot of milk tea, and we were proud of eating meat and drinking tea.
Nomadic grasslands produce the most meat and milk, and there are many kinds of beef and mutton on the table. When ordering food, we directly face a whole set of raw and cooked meat to select raw materials, weigh them on the spot and enter the kitchen.
Mutton is a well-deserved protagonist. Grassland mutton has no smell and can stand the test of cooking. The owner of the restaurant said it's best to eat it while it's hot, not cold. After cooling, the smell gradually rises and the meat becomes hard and tender.
The taste of beef is not excessive at all. Chewy, not chewy, mellow taste.
Dairy products are particularly dazzling, and herders give full play to the potential of milk.
The milk skin in milk tea is to dry the "milk coat" that floats to the surface when boiling milk, like the smell of roasted bran or macroporous cheese; Milk powder is made by peeling milk, boiling it dry and cutting it into various shapes. Milk powder without sugar is more mellow and fragrant than the packaged "milk shell" sold in specialty stores.
My favorite is the milk tofu that even the locals eat less. I only hide in the most authentic Mongolian restaurants. Milk tofu looks like tofu, but the production process is more complicated, slightly sour, and tastes as dense and soft as mung bean cake. Take a bite, full of milk fragrance, thick but not greasy, and the aftertaste is fragrant and intoxicating.
After I tasted Hailar, I was worried. The tour guide helped me find out along the way, which is not often found in the homes of ordinary herders. Later, I learned that Bater, a pasture herder at 30 1 national highway 2 16 km, had homemade milk tofu at home, so we hurried along the path.
This Bater has a common black physique in the local area, and the triangular eagle eye is rare in the mainland-suggesting his Mongolian ancestry.
Bater took the door and even scooped up two bowls of milk tea to drink. She told her daughter-in-law to open the big feed bag, and brown, curved strips were exposed-milk powder, not milk tofu. I feel very lost in my heart, but I can't help being proud of my unique taste-I can taste the beauty of dairy products that even native Mongolian herders don't often eat.
Finally, I ate milk tofu. Farewell to the last lunch before the grassland, we sat in Nuo Min Tara Tea Shop in Manzhouli, where "Tara in Nuo Min" means "green grassland" in Mongolian.
Elsa, a colleague of Friends, was full of praise for milk tea. Starting from Taiwan Province Province, she flew all over the world all the year round alone, and her experience and energy were amazing. We met in the morning light of Linjiangtun and talked all the way.
I was lucky enough to hear the beautiful scenery and stories of her many trips, and thanked my full-time playmate Xiaoman for generously accepting Isa to give us a lift. We set out from Hailar. He was keen and profound, and quietly shared a landscape with excellent angles and light.
A farewell dinner made me feel melancholy, and even the tour guide ditty, who is best at teasing, bowed his head and said nothing. Some of the grassland children I met are enthusiastic and straightforward, and some are calm and quiet, but they all have a rare * * * nature-to go all out to be kind and think about what others think.
You and I met on the green sea,
You have yours, I have my direction,
You may remember, but you'd better forget,
The light that shines on each other at this intersection.
Farewell, my Hulunbeier.
This article is dedicated to my Hulunbeier;
I sincerely thank Hulunbeier Wings Travel Agency for their arrangement and help. I am interested in searching their homepage on my mobile phone.
A first visit to Hulunbeier's travel notes "I come from grassland" (including travel guide).