Prose: The Morning Departing from Beijing (2)
Second, in the morning when we set out in Beijing,
We were guarding the North China Plain, and Beijing's chest was vast and open. Guarding the Great Wall and the Forbidden City, Beijing's history is better than the golden Haizi, and it is full of flames and soul-stirring.
during the 13 years from 1985 to 1997, I went on 11 business trips to Beijing. I was raised by the mountains and rivers in the northwest, and I was impressed 11 times in this unique capital. Naturally, the first impression is in Tiananmen Square, which is the center of Beijing and the heart of China society. When I'm in Beijing, I'll stop here for a while if I have something to do. Every time I stand like that, my mixed feelings will disappear without a trace, my mind will be occupied by an infinitely open landscape, and my mind will evolve into a donkey, and I will jump away with my feet. Tiananmen Gate, the Great Hall of the People, and the Museum of Chinese History, with blue sky on their shoulders and the breath of magnificent history, stand erect; The crowds in the square are full of faces, multitudinous and endless; The traffic on the peripheral roads is as fast as a shuttle. Every time I see this, my thought of turning into a donkey and my weak heartbeat are drowned by the powerful China heartbeat, and my vision rises and floats leisurely, blending into the sky propped up by Tiananmen Gate.
that day was not only vast, but the clouds were not only slender and long, but also the historical symphonies: the blue bricks and golden tiles were arranged in a long-history brass music array, the historical string band was folded in the Jade Palace, and countless ancient books, calligraphy and paintings and antiques were collected in series to form an endless civilized movement. Several social changes to promote the social process in China, the banner of new life, emerged in the clouds, flying in the hula, it is still visible that people all over the world are whistling under the banner; I saw the Tiananmen Gate in history, lined with countless Hu Tonghai. The ancient people and modern people greeted each other at the Dashilan in front of Beijing, smiling and bowing.
I know that real history and real life are actually in real scenes. Therefore, more often, I go out in the morning in Beijing, dragged by the golden morning light, and drown myself in the famous and unknown streets and hutongs, walking devoutly in front of historical sites, meditating and meditating in this cultural hall, China Modern Literature Museum, Chinese History Museum, China Art Museum, Zhu Yizun's former residence, Lu Xun's former residence, Mao Dun's former residence, Lao She's former residence, Xu Beihong's memorial hall, and other historical cultural centers. I will let these magnificent historical and cultural scenes with different expressions, different temperaments and rich connotations, and give myself this humble and humble life, which will be infused with the charm of growing cultural spirit again and again; Of course, I can't forget to go to those places-Commercial Street, Dongdan Xidan, Wangfujing. Apart from shopping there, I will also savor the commercial charm, style and prosperity of the old capital, as well as the hutongs, which always attract me with the flavor of Jingyun Drum, and bathe myself with the street customs there until sunset and night rise, and then drag my tired body back to the station.
I just didn't expect that my trip to Beijing for 11 times in 13 years came to an abrupt end after 1997. I didn't expect that it was May day in 21, when the sun was shining and flowers were blooming, and I resumed my fate with Beijing and went to Beijing to attend an essay pen meeting. It was at 4 o'clock in the afternoon on May 22nd, and after 13 years away from Beijing, I set foot on the land of Beijing again and for the 12th time. Walking out of Beijing West Railway Station, I stepped on a marble pavement and faced Beijing. I stood there for a while and looked up. Ah, glittering, Yunfu Xiafei, the sky in Beijing is far away, and I can't help feeling: How are you, Beijing? This greeting has been lingering in my mind for 13 years. Today, it is finally issued in front of Beijing. It is really mixed feelings. On the bus to the Weinan Hotel in Fengtai District, I greeted Beijing from time to time and looked at it attentively: Beijing has changed, and you have become both familiar and unfamiliar. Please forgive me for looking at you, your city and yours with the same familiar and unfamiliar eyes.
yes, in the dark blue night, lying on a bed in the hotel in southern Anhui, I also took a look at your mood and fell asleep.
The next morning, I had a quick breakfast in the hotel restaurant and rushed to the hotel conference hall to listen to the opening speech given by Mr. Lin Fei, President of China Prose Society and Honorary President of China Prose Association. This is another survey in the sense of China's culture and prose creation since the May 4th Movement.
one day later, another morning, I took two buses with more than 1 writers from all over the country, left the hotel in southern Anhui, and went to China Modern Literature Museum in Haidian District to attend an essay award ceremony.
after a short drive, the car turned a corner and drove onto an overpass. My eye pupil was shot by light, and I couldn't help looking for light: the oriental canopy, with a half-round CD, is far away in purples, and the scattered light of heaven and earth shines clearly and magnificently, while Beijing, watched by the CD, wakes up from its first dream and glows with the light of Yin Yan. The sea is generally spread out, like countless buildings and masts, standing silently and shining with brilliance under the backdrop of the rising sun.
I looked at the east in a daze, looking at the city of Beijing in front of me, and I saw a fairy in white, and now she appeared in the sky; I still see the aura of heaven, the aura of flowers on the ground, fluttering and blending together, wandering in the infinite airspace between heaven and earth.
the sun is rising.
I was shot in the eye pupil again-the road in front of me was full of dense sunshine, bright and harsh, like a golden ribbon, suddenly straight and bent, shuttling between the clothes of countless high-rise buildings and extending to the southeast.
road or road? It has become a golden bridge!
Soon, the bus drove onto a viaduct. Scared, as far as I can see, it is even more foggy. Where is the road? No, it should be called Jinqiao-Jinqiao, which is even more fascinating: "It is as vast as Feng Xu's wind, and I don't know where it is going. It' s like being independent, feathering and becoming immortal. "
In this way, the scenery in front of me dragged me into the artistic conception given by Su Shi's poem Qian Chibi Fu, and people fell into a burst of quite happy confusion, so they were willing to make such fantasies: thinking that Jinqiao led the car to the sun, thinking that the city of the sun was opening its arms and embracing itself.
this time, I came to Beijing in a hurry, and I haven't had time to visit the historical sites I have visited and those I haven't visited. Now, Jinqiao has pointed to a vast sea for me, and my heart is moving. The buildings as dense as masts are shining with the texture of modern materials, and I am full of confidence in the future. People have seen it. Really, that kind of charm and strength are bulging to catch up with the round sunrise. Oh, the ancient palaces and gate buildings in Beijing are still in the east, but I can't see them here, but I think about the relics that have accepted the glorious history and frustrated experience.
Hutongs and quadrangles do appear from time to time. However, they are no longer like flocks of sheep flooding the city, but only small groups of fish swimming between the masts of the building. I stared at the hutong. We can still see the figure of small vendors, the citizens sitting on small benches, eating pancake fruit, eating fried dough sticks and drinking bean juice, and the people who go to work and go to school, and the stream is flowing in the alley mouth.
I am familiar with the hutongs in Beijing. It's always a long sight when the sun is silent. When people walk, there will definitely be a bump of the iron frame behind them, and then there will be a loud cry with a full rhyme and a rough voice: Hey, gentlemen, make way. When the body quickly hides, there will always be a big-waisted son-in-law riding a scooter, or several son-in-law riding several scooters, bumping past, one by one with sweat on his front and back, as if he could wet the whole city of Beijing. Sometimes, the scooter slams to the side, and the man riding the bike will ask with his hands on the handlebars, Sir, it's not far, just ahead, just turn a corner.
The first time I went on a business trip to Beijing was in the mid-198s, when I was a young man. It was the first time I went out alone in my life. Before I left, Beijing was like the sea of Wang Yang in my heart. Are the restaurants there easy to find? I was very confused and uneasy in my heart. It happened that on the train, the conductor was registering for a hotel in Beijing, because I can't remember the name of the hotel for a long time. At that time, my anxiety and uneasiness disappeared, and I registered without saying anything. I left the Beijing Railway Station, was picked up by a half-new and half-old old old bus, pulled to Songjiazhuang, south of Muxi, and lived in that hotel.
After a lapse of one year, I went to Beijing again, ignoring the train, because the trip to Beijing the previous year not only saved me some experience, but also saved some experience, because there was only one thing to do in Beijing at that time, that is, waiting for an approval from the relevant ministries and commissions, which was more than 4 days. This gave me a lot of time to visit Beijing, and I found that there were many hotels in Qianmen Dashilan, of course.
When I went to Beijing for the second time, my goal was to find a place to live in Dashilan.
When people got off the train, they took the bus and went straight to the front door. First, they wandered around the neighborhood. The front door is the most distinctive commercial circle in Beijing. The ancient buildings with blue bricks and gray tiles are row upon row, which make up a prosperous atmosphere of merchants. It's really a cornice, a gallery carving windows, a flying cover and a dense crowd, which impressed me deeply. When I visited Beijing for the second time, I was like a drug addict, and I couldn't wait to be edified by this scene.
After wandering around, my thoughts were basically satisfied, so I went to a restaurant on the south side of Qianmen Tower to have dinner, and continued to walk west. I just came to an alley, and a grandfather, in his fifties, shaved his head and wore a white short-sleeved old man's shirt. He sweated and stopped the scooter beside me, supported the handlebars, and came at me with a sentence: Sir.
I decided to go with him, so I stood there and negotiated the price with him, got on the bus, didn't ride far, and finally stopped at an alley in Dashilan. There was an inn there, which was very similar to the one called Bijiamei Inn in Peisi Chen's movie "Two sons open a shop". I lived there, which was convenient, but the living conditions were not ideal, noisy and crowded, and there was no standard room. Although it is far from Tiananmen Square, the hotel is located on the main road of Beijing connected with Chang 'an Avenue, and the No.1 subway line runs through it. Therefore, every time I go to Beijing, I basically go there, so I don't have to look around.
Hutongs in Beijing are generally long, clean and clean. When I was in Beijing, I prefer to drill hutongs, because hutongs can best reflect the secular folk customs in Beijing. When I pass the courtyard gate of a quadrangle, I can always see children frolicking and adults busy. At the gate of the quadrangle, I often meet aunts and grandmothers sitting on a small Mazar and chatting with banana fans. After listening to the rising and falling sounds, I want to laugh. Which is chatting? It is clearly Hou Baolin, Guo Baoquan and Ma Ji who are talking cross talk. If you happen to pass by a breakfast stall in an alley in the morning, sit down beside the endless stream of people and mingle with the breakfast crowd.
and today, 13 years later, this morning, I was sitting on the bus, wandering in the reverie of Jinqiao, looking at one hutong after another from a distance, watching them make waves, hiding back and merging into the sea, and the impression of Beijing hutong accumulated in my heart came to my mind, giving my heart an infinite charm of Beijing rhyme drums, which lasted for a long time.
In addition to high-rise buildings and hutongs, we are greeted by neat and beautiful shopping malls and small shops, which are colorful advertisements. The advertisements are dipped in sunshine and surrounded by buildings, hutongs and cities, and they are full of gilded brilliance. Ah, they haven't woken up at the moment, but this quiet appearance has a different charm.
Finally, I saw the high hall with the historical dust on it.
what a big tree, lined with a cascade of craggy golden roofs and red walls.
That's not the Forbidden City. It's far to the east by the Jinshui Bridge, and it's not as big as the Forbidden City. There are only a few golden domes, one of which has several golden characters flashing, manjuji. Oh, this is manjuji. I have never walked into it, but I know a little about its origin. It used to be the royal temple of the Ming and Qing Dynasties. At that time, the Ming and Qing emperors chose it as a family temple. It is said that because of the good geomantic omen here, it is the key place to guard the water vein of the capital and the whole Long Mai of China. The emperors want to build a temple here with the boundless imperial power and enough gold, and the Buddha will reciprocate it, giving the empire and the whole royal family an infinite good future, which will never stop.
Today, manjuji, like the fate of the Forbidden City and the Summer Palace, is isolated in the sunshine of modern life. The sustenance and glory of the former concubines of Di Zi and the former empires of the two dynasties have long since faded away, leaving behind only empty shells, holding flying eaves, singing a few ancient elegies to modern society, and reflecting the modern tourists with high interest.
The car gradually entered the university town, and one university after another hung the brand of China University. Yesterday evening, I walked in front of several of them. After listening to Mr. Lin Fei's speech yesterday morning, in the afternoon, I rushed to a building near Suzhou Street in Haidian District, and listened to the speeches on literary creation experience given by Mr. Li Yunlei, deputy editor of Literary Theory and Criticism, an editor of Selected Novels (I'm really sorry, the signature he left in my notebook can't be read all the time) and a worker writer. After listening to the speech, I didn't take a bus, but walked for a while. It can be said that the purpose of my walking has been achieved. The gloomy and green appearance and majestic temperament of halls of higher learning have given me a good impression. Like all colleges and universities in China, they should be competent to cultivate the stars of hope in the future.
This morning, several universities and more universities that passed by yesterday flashed by, and it was even more touching in the morning sunshine. I couldn't help thinking, well, the morning begins, and the Jinqiao shop is prefaced. As a foreigner, I have a new morning experience in Beijing.