Classification of Leicha
Taojiang people not only hold large-scale tea-smashing parties on festive days such as weddings, funerals and weddings, but also drink tea every day on weekdays, usually as lunch. Because Taojiang people drink tea all the year round, processing tea is one of the main tasks of housewives in Taojiang area. Tujia tea, mainly distributed in the border areas of Hunan, Guizhou, Sichuan and Hubei, is a specialty of Tujia people. It is made of Tujia cereals, such as rice, ginger, sesame, soybean, peanut and corn, supplemented by tea in special bowls. It has many functions, such as rich nutrition, strengthening the body, strengthening the stomach and beautifying the face. It is the best product for Tujia and Miao people to entertain guests and give gifts. "Look at the color in the sea bowl, taste in the teacup, smell the fragrance in the wooden plate, and aftertaste in the stomach"; This is our Tujia specialty-Tujia tea, please taste it. Tujia tea-smashing originated in Han Dynasty. According to legend, during the period of Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty, General Ma Yuan led his troops to fight in the south and north, and it was in the midsummer when he passed through Wuling area in western Hunan. Many soldiers suffered from the local epidemic plague, and an old man used it as an ancestral secret recipe-tea crushing. Since then, Tujia tea smashing has been widely circulated among the people, and Tujia people have always maintained the habit of drinking tea smashing. In the beautiful ancient city of Fenghuang, Tujia tea, together with the treasures of the town house, ginger sugar and blood duck, are also called "the three treasures of Fenghuang".
Fenghuang local lei tea house
Phoenix is exquisite, grew up in Xiong Xiling, came from Shen Congwen, walked out of Huang Yongyu and was born in Tujia tea making. Four outstanding figures in Xiangxi: politics, calligraphy, painting and food, which are loved by people;
The beauty and humanity of the Phoenix have fallen for the world, and the delicious Tujia tea makes people yearn for the Phoenix. Tiankai pictures eat Fenghuang Tujia tea.
In Xiangxi, in folk customs, there are no books to see the sky, no paintings to see the mountains and rivers, no songs to see the birds sing, but Tujia tea smashing is irreplaceable.
Tea is for guests, and tea is a gift; Full-bodied folk custom thrives in Tujia tea-smashing. Guests and friends get together to entertain guests, but tea smashing is indispensable, and emotional beliefs are precipitated in Tujia tea smashing.
In Xiangxi, Tujia's tea-playing ancestors and literati have been celebrated for thousands of years; There are traces of beating tea and bowls in Xiangxi, which can be traced back to the end of the Eastern Han Dynasty.
Tujia tea picking, in Xiangxi Tuling, in Xiangxi folk customs, in Xiangxi culture, and in Sri Lanka, has accumulated a thousand-year opportunity and made an ancient big Xiangxi business card.
Tujia tea-making inherited the ancient secrets of Xiangxi people, gained the climate and delicacy of Xiangxi, took the water from Xiangxi and made it by ancient methods. Its sauce flavor is elegant, its taste is mellow and sweet, its raw materials are cool and clean, and its sauce flavor is rich.
Both mellow and nutritious, the sauce is delicate, clear and pure, and the texture is elegant!
Tujia people who originated from nature smashed tea, which is a unique product of the drinking world. It is really a must in Xiangxi, a wonderful flower of Chinese cuisine! In the long-standing traditional culture, lei tea can be said to be a unique landscape in Hakka food culture.
Tea smashing has a long history. There is a legend in Fujian called "Uncle Lei of She nationality in Jianyang County, who was the first to make tea". There is a story about "Zhuge Liang marched into central Hunan, plagued by plague, and the old woman made tea to drive away the disease". Relevant literary records are also scattered in some ancient books, such as Huang Sheng's poem "Home of the Liver and Fetus" in Yulin Poetry, which says: "There are two or three straw houses by the road, so you can see the guests beating horses and spinning tea. The Central Plains has a good pronunciation, and I don't know that Huaishui is the end of the world. " Studying hemp and making tea for customers was the custom in Jiangnan at that time. In addition, Mr. Wang Zengqi quoted "Beijing Jisheng, Teahouse", "Selling Tea in Winter" and "Selling Qibao Tea in Winter"; Quoting the old saying "Hangzhou people eat 30 pieces of wood a day", it shows that in the history of the Southern Song Dynasty, it was peaceful and prosperous, with a large population, and tea smashing was quite popular, even consuming a lot of wooden dates and pestles every day. As the saying goes, one in five, one in ten. Although Anhua County and Taojiang County are as close as lips and teeth, they also like to drink tea, but the making method and taste of tea are completely different.
Like delicious porridge.
The tea in Anhua County is as thick as porridge, salty and hard. In layman's terms, it is like a bowl of delicious porridge. There is something to chew and drink in every bowl of tea. Drink a bowl and you won't feel hungry even if you don't eat a meal. So, if you have a chance to go to Anhua County, Hunan Province, and someone invites you to tea, you'd better go on an empty stomach.
Anhua's tea making is very particular, and the raw materials are also varied. Besides tea, there are fried sesame seeds, peanuts, soybeans, corn, rice, mung beans, melon seeds, ginger, salt and pepper. The main raw materials are rice and tea. The local people use a stone mill to grind the fried rice into powder for later use, and then use a mortar to grind tea, ginger and sesame into paste, and pour it into the boiling water in the pot with the ground raw materials, and boil it into paste together, which becomes tea smashing.
Entertain guests with tea
Whenever a guest visits, the hospitable host will pick up a bamboo spoon or a wooden spoon, give the guest a Kazuhiro Mori bowl and respectfully hand it to the guest. The fragrant heat made the guests salivate. Guests who don't know the rules in the mountains can't wait to drink the first bowl of tea. However, as long as the guests drink a little, the quick-eyed hostess will pick up the spoon and fill it for you. So, it's endless. According to the local custom, if you don't want to drink after drinking this bowl, don't drink this bowl of tea in your hand, let it stay in the bowl, and when you leave your host's house, drink it in one breath before you go.
The habit of setting "dishes"
Drink anhua tea, and have the habit of setting "dishes". Anhua cuisine is basically the same as taohuajiang cuisine. On the antique dining table of the Eight Immortals, there are usually eight "plates" filled with withered peanuts with shells; Fried sweet potato slices, fragrant; Solid melon seeds; Crispy and suitable fruit slices and purple nests ... are homemade appetizing and delicious green food.
Why are there eight plates? The locals said two meanings:
One is that eight people sit at a table, that is, one for each person; Second, the eight characters are auspicious numbers, and the local people believe in the creed of "eight tables, wealth".
Anhua people not only hold large-scale tea smashing parties on festive days such as weddings, funerals and weddings, but also drink tea smashing every day on weekdays, usually as lunch.
Because Anhua people drink ground tea all the year round, and the tea is heavy, which requires a lot of raw materials and takes a lot of energy and time to process, processing ground tea is one of the main tasks of housewives in Anhua area.
Jiexi Hakka people have the custom of making tea. It's very hot in summer and autumn. People often don't want to eat after work, so they often have tea at lunch. At noon, when guests visit, the host family must cook and entertain them. Before the girl gets married, all the neighbors who received the wedding candy should also cook a bowl of fragrant tea for the bride to eat. In addition, the patients at home should also cook some for the neighbors who have taken care of the patients to show their gratitude.
The production is not complicated.
The production of Jiexi Leicha is not complicated. The main ingredient is rice or popcorn, but the ingredients are more complicated. First, put peanuts, sesame, tea, gold, or bitter and spicy seeds into a bowl, grind them into paste with a tea stick, and pour them into boiling water. Then stir-fry some dried radish, cabbage, green onion, green onion, soybean, tree vegetables and so on in the casserole. Or add some shredded lean meat, shrimp, squid and so on. Finally, mix the white rice (or popcorn). This kind of tea is sweet, sour, bitter and salty, appetizing and full of flavor. Especially on the seventh day of the first month of every year, every household has to eat tea. Because seven kinds of dishes are used in the seventh day of junior high school, it is called "seven kinds of tea", and those with fifteen kinds of dishes are called "fifteen kinds of tea".
A long history
Jiexi Leicha has a long history. Lu Yu's Book of Tea, Volume 3, "I heard that there is a sleepy Yi Shu selling tea porridge in the south", and combined with the legend of the place name of the old woman, this Yi Shu may refer to the old woman. Lu Yu, a native of the Tang Dynasty, has a history of 1000 years. The tea porridge he said is to grind tea leaves into fine rice, add rice flour, oil and salt to make tea balls or tea cakes, mash them when drinking, add some seasonings such as onion, ginger, pepper and cinnamon, and add water to cook a large pot of tea porridge for everyone to eat. This is the initial tea crushing.
Wonderful legend
Jiexi Leicha has its wonderful legend. In the Northern Song Dynasty, Pan Renmei was ordered by Song Taizong to conquer the Southern Han Dynasty and sent a small team to attack Guangzhou by Jiexi. When we arrived at the river slope, because most of the soldiers were northerners, and the weather was hot and acclimatized, the soldiers vomited and diarrhea one after another, and their condition was serious. The generals were in a hurry, but they were helpless. Hepo heard the news, taught the secret recipe, and used Sansheng soup to drink tea to cure the disease. As needed, she asked some people to pick tea, some to dig ginger, some to grind rice, and some to find bowls and sticks. With all these things done, we can make a lot of tea soon. Because of the bowl, it is called "broken tea". He Po said to give each sick soldier a big bowl of boiling water, and then cover your head to sleep. When I woke up the next day, everyone was sweating and sneezing. Strange to say, all the patients have recovered. Later, some southern conquerors stayed and settled in the fields, so smashing tea spread not only in Jiexi County, but also in places where Hakka people live in northern Guangdong, western Hunan and southern Jiangxi, which became a major feature of Hakka food folklore. "Looking at the mountain flowers on the top of the mountain, I hope I can make tea at home. Adults eat three bowls carefully and lose to snakes (people)! " This is a folk song sung by people in Lvshui Village, Mianyang Town, Wuhua County, which is about the custom of eating tea. It is understood that people in Mianyang, Jiangqiao, Meilin, Longcun, Nifang and Dingshe in the south of Wuhua County have the habit of drinking tea. The local people have regarded this custom as an important way of diet health care and hospitality.
The author saw the method of making tea-smashing from the workers in Songgangzhang Tea Farm in Mianyang Town, Wuhua: a ceramic tea-smashing bowl that can hold three pots of water, according to the number of people who eat the tea-smashing bowl, put a proper amount of tea in the tea-smashing bowl, add a proper amount of seasonings such as peanuts, sesame seeds and refined salt according to their own preferences, and then stir with a tea-smashing stick made of blood medicine tree until it is crushed and sticky, and add a proper amount of boiled water.
Mashed tea is fragrant and sweet, and its advantages are quenching hunger and thirst, refreshing and promoting fluid production. According to the villagers, local men, women and children will make tea and drink tea almost every day, at least once a day. It is reported that due to the high alkalinity of tea, for people who eat more meat, have high gastrointestinal acidity and are prone to "rich diseases", their stomachs will be more comfortable and their spirits will be better after drinking tea. Leicha is a Hakka food with unique flavor, which is widely spread in Ruijin by its contemporaries.
Ruijin tea is made of sesame, peanut, mung bean, soybean, tea, orange peel and so on. Leicha has a unique flavor, slightly bitter fragrance, grayish green, thin and muddy, and it is very delicious when dipped in sesame oil. After hard work, Ruijin people are refreshed after drinking a bowl of broken tea. Tea crushing contains some Chinese herbal medicines, which can detoxify, ventilate and cool down.
Ruijin people, whether in rural or urban areas, love to drink tea. Mashed tea can not only satisfy hunger, but also be a timely drink. The peasant women stir the tea, make it and serve it. Neighbors sit around, drinking and chatting, endless tea.
The making method of tea mill is unique, which is made by mixing all kinds of raw materials together. The grinding tools are "grinding bowl" and "grinding rod". Rolling bowl is a kind of ceramic bowl with tiny concave and convex marks on its inner wall. The rolling pin is a hard stick about 2 feet long. When grinding, the raw materials are poured into the bowl, and the housewife sits on the low stool, tightly grips the bowl with her left and right thighs, tightly holds the rolling pin with both hands, grinds hard in the bowl, grinds all kinds of raw materials into fine powder, and then adds water into the pot to boil. Ruijin people's unique tea smashing has attracted many people at home and abroad. They are proud of smashing tea in Ruijin. In 200 1 year, Chen Lai Ruijin, a famous writer and vice chairman of Chinese Writers Association, was entertained by people in Ruijin literary and art circles. Chen praised Ruijin for its refreshing fragrance and delicious taste. bottom
In Jiangle, smashing tea is an impromptu drink made by ordinary people.
As the name implies, you have to "beat" the tea with an instrument. Its main musical instruments are rolling hands and bowls. The handle is a 2-foot-long stick, which is usually made of tea branches or white snake vines (belonging to edible miscellaneous wood). If you are particular, you can hang the upper end of the roll handle with a ring groove tether and plane the lower end to facilitate the roll. The rolling bowl is a unique local pottery basin, and its inner wall is covered with radial grooves (its roughness is to increase the friction force in the tea rolling process), which is in the shape of an inverted cone.
Put the white sesame seeds into a bowl and roll them repeatedly.
Add material
When white sesame seeds are basically ground into powder, tea leaves and dried tangerine peel are poured into a grinding bowl to be mixed with the basically ground tea powder, and then properly ground. It is said that after adding tea and dried tangerine peel, the nutritional and health care effect of ground tea will be more significant, so the locals call this process "icing on the cake".
On the basis of the basic ingredients, Jiangle people also flexibly adjust the formula according to the changes of seasons and the tastes of the guests: for example, ginger and cinnamon are generally added in winter and spring, which plays the roles of warming meridians, activating yang, transforming qi, eliminating dampness and dispelling cold. In summer, Herba Houttuyniae, Herba Agastaches, local herbs Pteris multifida and Paederia Japonica can be added to make heatstroke prevention tea, or honeysuckle, lotus leaf, lophatherum gracile and mint can be added to make cool summer-relieving tea. Chrysanthemum or Chrysanthemum morifolium can be added in autumn. People who like to drink fragrant tea can fry (or partially fry) sesame seeds and then grind them, or add fried peanuts and soybeans. "I heard that using black sesame to smash tea leaves, beauty beauty has a better effect."
fine comminution
In Hakka tradition, the "fine grinding" link is often that the host and guest take turns grinding tea, so everyone can grind tea with their own skills, so this link is also called "showing their magical powers". Therefore, those of us who have never drunk tea also take turns to experience it. ...
When the ingredients were finely ground, mom A Juan rushed into a lot of hot water. It is said that the temperature of boiling water is very particular at this time, and the temperature cannot be too high or too low. If the water temperature is too high, it is easy to cause the protein of the mixture to solidify too fast, and the tea washed out is light and not milky; If the water temperature is too low, you can't make mature tea. Not only does it taste bad, but it also smells like grass. "Generally, the water temperature is controlled at around 90 degrees Celsius, and the brewed tea can be' harmonious'." A Juan said.
At this point, the tea rough grinding process has been completed. The rest is fine processing, that is, "sieving". Its purpose is to filter out the tea residue, take a spoon, filter out the tea residue in the bowl, and pour the milky tea liquid into the tea bowl. But most people like to drink coarse tea and white sesame powder, and then call it "tea bottom" According to different personal tastes, choose "tea bottom". Then present it to the guests in order of age, and the whole process of mashing tea leaves is completed.
Hand tea
After the tea smashing, friends and relatives sat around the table and drank steaming tea smashing. At this time, some melon and fruit refreshments, coupled with chatting all over the world, are an extension of happiness after tea smashing handicrafts.
In Jiangle, calling people to drink tea is called "calling tea". In the local area, it's a bit of a rule: it's called festive tea at 4: 08, mutual tea on weekdays, happy tea for happy events, and thank-you tea for help. The hottest time to call tea is in mid-August. At this time, those who have been admitted to technical secondary schools in universities, those who have been recruited and those who have graduated are all crying for tea, especially teachers. The person who shouted was sweating, and the sincere expression was really a bit like "tea is not intoxicating".