Snooker cue maintenance issues

1. The tip of a billiard cue is usually made of single or multi-layer genuine leather. The following issues should be paid attention to when using it: 1. The tip of the tip should be shaped into a certain arc. Taiwan has 5 Yuan arc and 10 yuan arc are roughly equivalent to the arc of Chinese 1 yuan and 50 cent coins. This is the arc that can best utilize the performance of the tip and produce various sharp strokes. If the tip is too flat, the stick technique will be blunt, and if the tip is too round, the stick will be easily bent. 2. Newly installed leather heads are usually easy to pile up, that is to say, the front becomes flat and there is an extra circle around it. At this time, the excess parts around it should be cut off in time to ensure that the diameter of the tip is consistent with the diameter of the front angle. At the same time, sandpaper should be used to trim the correct arc on the front. Generally speaking, after one repair, the scalp will become stable. 3. The tip of the tip should avoid being exposed to water, especially the front that is in contact with the cue ball. When exposed to water, the tip will easily become damaged or even completely destroyed. 4. A good way to avoid chipping is to often use a needle to prick the surface of the scalp or use a file to make lines on the surface of the scalp when playing. You can often see on TV that professional players do this after every game. one time. 2. The current mainstream angles are plastic steel angles and mesh angles. Plastic steel horns are usually used on low-priced public poles and water poles. They are soft and durable but will deform in the long run, and the surface is easy to get dirty and difficult to clean. There are many types of reticular horns with different names such as LBM, XTC, etc. In fact, they all belong to the Melamine material category. It is characterized by not being easily deformed and the surface is easy to clean, but it is relatively easy to crack due to its high hardness. At present, the mesh tip is the standard configuration of mid-to-high-end mass-produced clubs. The corners of the clubs are polished by machine when they leave the factory. No matter how fine the sandpaper is, it is difficult to achieve this smoothness by hand. If it is not smooth enough, dirt will easily stick to it. The key point of horn maintenance is to avoid contact with chocolate powder at ordinary times, and try not to touch the horn when replacing the scalp. The ball should be wiped clean with a dry cloth or paper towel after each hit. If it is too dirty, it can be wiped with abrasive cleaners such as toothpaste. 3. Anterior segment 1. The problem of deformation of the anterior segment. This is the most concerning issue. In fact, improper maintenance is only one of the factors that cause the deformation of the front section. The key factors affecting the deformation of the front section include wood drying methods, poor regional climate, etc. The wood drying treatment method, whether it is the long-term natural drying treatment used by the handmade pole master or the rapid dehumidification, soaking in liquid medicine and other methods used by the mass production factory, is to make the front section of the wood as dry and stable as possible and not easy to deform during use. Therefore, if the front section is not properly dried, it will be easily deformed, regardless of how it is maintained. The regional climate is poor. If a club made in a dry climate area is used in a humid climate area, the front section will be easily deformed, and vice versa. Many snooker cues produced in the south of China have no problem when used in the south. However, the deformation rate is very high after arriving in the north. The poor climate is the direct reason. In order to avoid deformation of the front section in daily use, avoid leaning against the club for a long time, which will cause uneven stress at all angles and cause deformation. You can usually hang it up or install it in the club barrel and place it vertically, and try to keep it in an environment with stable humidity. Save in . 2. The front section is easy to get dirty. The front section of billiard cues is made of maple wood. When most cues leave the factory, in order to avoid the influence of humidity changes in different regions, the surface of the front section is sealed with paint or wax. Before we buy a golf club, we usually wear off the paint on the front section to make it smoother. This process is called unsealing. After opening, the maple wood is exposed to the outside. Since maple wood is a honeycomb-shaped wood with countless small holes invisible to the naked eye, it will become dirty after long-term use. This kind of dirtying is inevitable. The first way to delay the front section from getting dirty is to use a machine to open the seal at a high speed and use very fine sandpaper to try to seal the small holes on the surface of the maple wood. The second is to often use special cleaning fluid or wax to clean the front section. A protective film forms on the surface of the joint. 3. The problem of smoothness in the front section. In order to ensure the smoothness of the stroke, the surface of the front section must be kept smooth. The simplest and most practical way is to always keep a clean and slightly damp towel, put the club on the ground, wrap it with a towel from the tip down, and wipe it down with force. Whenever you feel the front section is sticky, just wipe it like this. This is the method used by almost all players. If your hands sweat easily and still feel astringent after wiping them like this, it is recommended to wear special gloves to play ball. 4. The problem of collision in the previous quarter. Every billiards enthusiast should develop the good habit of taking good care of their favorite stick to avoid bumps. It is easy to get small pits in the front section of maple wood. The repair method is: use a little toilet paper, which is the same size as the small pit. Moisten it with water and stick it to the small pit. After about one night, take off the paper. You can see that the small pit has swelled after absorbing water. If the bruise is deep and the bump cannot bulge after one application, just apply it one more time. Finally, polish it with fine sandpaper. 4. Jointing 1. When the club is disassembled and stored, using a mid-wheel protective cover can effectively avoid unnecessary bruises on the joint. 2. Be careful when joining the club of the wooden teeth, and slowly rotate along the existing threads. Once misaligned, the wood of the front female teeth will be damaged, causing the teeth to collapse. 3. The wooden teeth of some clubs are very tight. You can spray some Bili beads on the teeth to make them smoother. 5. Rear Section The rear section of the high-end billiard cue has a beautifully painted surface, and uses decorative rings, gussets, inlays and other processes. When using it, please pay attention to: 1. Avoid bumps. Minor bumps can be remedied by repainting, but there is nothing you can do if you damage the wood. 2. Avoid sudden cooling and heating. Wood, paint, and inlaid and gusseted materials have different thermal expansion coefficients. If the ambient temperature changes too much instantaneously, it will easily cause cracks in the club's paint, bulges in the inlaid material, and cracks.

Therefore, when using the club, you must avoid sudden cold and heat. For example, when you take the club out of the trunk of a hot car and play in an air-conditioned golf room, you must let the club cool down slowly in the barrel instead of taking it out immediately. Play ball. 6. Thread wrapping: Most pool cue handles are wrapped with linen thread. The thread wrapping of new cue sticks is smooth and smooth. This is because there is a layer of wax on it when it leaves the factory. The tangled thread will fluff when exposed to water, so never use a wet cloth to wipe the tangled thread. If your hands often sweat, it is necessary to maintain the tangled thread frequently. The method is to quickly wipe the wrapped wire with wax paper (the kind of wax paper used for engraving and printing in units before computers), and it will be as smooth as a new rod. 7. At the bottom, it is recommended to get rid of the habit of dragging the club all over the ground, otherwise the bottom rubber pad will be worn away and the club will be sharpened directly.