Does the carpenter pay attention to feng shui for the house?
(1) Stand upright, lie flat, and walk without pushing; It's no use lying standing: this refers to the slope of the planer in the planer. When the vertical direction is one inch and the horizontal direction is nine, the equivalent angle is 49 degrees. Suitable for planing hardwood, with lighter lifting plane. Construction sites generally use cork such as red, white and pine, and adopt vertical and horizontal slopes, which is equivalent to an angle of 45℃. If you use a vertical slope and eight horizontal slopes, it will be difficult to use. Of course, for other planers with special purposes, the inclination of the planer needs to be appropriately increased or decreased, such as the inclination of the broaching planer and the cutting planer should be appropriately smaller; Grooving machine, planer, etc. , the slope should be appropriately increased.
(2) One foot, three inches and five, one standing, one lying and eight-five: That is to say, if the length of the planer is one foot, you can measure three inches and five from the back to the front, which is basically one third of the total length of the planer, and determine the position of the upper mouth of the planer, so as to draw a diagonal line downwards according to the proportion of one standing, one lying and eight-five, and get the lower mouth position of the planer, and measure 5-6mm forward to get the width of the planer.
(3) Adjust a line of the planer so that it is not crooked or inclined into a straight line: generally, the rough planer exposes the bottom line; Fine planing and joint planing knife expose the bottom of planing below the thickness of paper; The length of the middle plane exposed from the bottom of the plane is between the two.
(4) Recognize the inside and outside, distinguish the wood grain, and defeat the enemy without fighting: Before planing wood, distinguish the inside and outside of wood from the wood grain, and then decide the direction of planing wood to avoid fighting. Generally, when planing the surface, it should be planed from the tip to the root, and when planing the interior, it should be planed from the root to the tip.
(5) Planing: first "punch" the line, then plan it high and then low: before planing, observe the concave-convex part and degree of the wood surface to be planed, then plan the convex part to make it roughly flat, and then plan it according to the length of the planing line. There are generally two ways to measure wood with vision. First look at the longitudinal line of the plane. If the lines on both sides overlap, it means that the surface of the material is straight without warping, otherwise it means it is not straight. Second, facing one end of the material, visually inspect the end of the flat top of the board near the other end with the right eye to see if it is straight. The general order is two to one.
(6) The legs should be flexed first, then extended, and the shoulders should bear the force to maintain the forward thrust: when sliding, the posture should be that the left leg is bent forward like a bow, the right leg is straight, and the ground should be pushed hard when sliding to support the reaction force. When pushing the plane forward with both hands, both shoulders and arms should exert force at the same time, not just by wrists, so as to push the lost plane out forcefully.
(7) Pushing and planing is like shaking a mountain: when pushing and planing, the arms must be straight and powerful, and even the hard wood should be like shaking a mountain. Push the plane to the end. Don't be slow or soft.
(8) Keep the planer straight and straight: During operation, both hands must keep the planer straight, especially when planing to the wooden end, both hands must hold the planer and plane it according to the original horizontal line to avoid pulling the end of the planer. The so-called straight means that the direction of the planer must be consistent with the axis direction of the planer and must not be skewed.