In February 1 1, they went to Phoenix from Wuhan for help.
Check-in: Return to No.91Longge, Sange Inn, with 40 extra beds and 20 extra beds.
Play: I went to keep a diary.
[1]- Accidental
On the morning of May 1 Sunday, fly to Guangzhou at noon 12: 55, and take K502 to Phoenix.
The acquaintance with Phoenix can only be explained as fate. Choosing to go to Phoenix has nothing to do with Mr. Shen Congwen or the customs of Miao nationality. I learned that this small town in western Hunan is purely accidental. Her words seemed to induce a dream in an unconscious state, pure and simple. This is the smell of phoenix.
Summer in Guangzhou always seems to be too diligent, coming early and going late. We set out to discuss the weather in Hunan under such scorching sun. In the rain and fog of the phoenix, I entered the role of a tourist early. Time is beautiful and precious, but once you marry a train, you can only play an annoying role. This kind of story is often staged in this land, and you are not interested in feeling it. Dull time produces the same taste, and I believe people who travel frequently will feel the same way. Fortunately, the peers are still young. Although it's a long way, it doesn't hurt to waste some time playing or sleeping. In short, Phoenix is not far away.
Phoenix District on May 2nd.
Arrive in Jishou at 8 am. It takes an hour and a half to rent a car for 70 yuan. The winding mountain road, full of green, suddenly brings out a river with clear water, and Fenghuang County is here.
This is a small town by the river, close to Tuojiang River and south of Huashan Mountain. It is really beautiful. If this ancient town and I are not destined to be lucky, it must be her charm. Just a few minutes after I arrived in Phoenix, I already deeply felt her and fell in love with her. This love cannot be expressed in words.
Bihuimen (North Gate Tower) is very famous. You can see it standing by the river in all kinds of words or pictures about Phoenix, which is solid and profound and full of vitality in Saibei. If you are lucky enough, you can see the Huimen Wall in the snow season. The earth is dyed white and the fields are silent. Only this door is still guarding the river and caring for the villagers, which is extremely quiet and serene. Can you understand the tenderness of a warm-blooded man? Tuojiang River flows quietly in such a safe arm bay, which is the kind of small jasper. The river is clear and gentle, and you know little about rapids. Boating on the Tuojiang River, Shen Congwen's "Woman Washing Clothes", the diaojiao building and the residents carrying baskets will all come out of the novel and live in front of you; Time seems to flow only by the river, and the inner details and customs of the phoenix, like the ever-changing Nanhua Mountain next to the small town, are becoming more and more profound. There are Miao girls on the river, singing wonderful national love songs and singing very far on the silent river; My wife is young, and I haven't left my song there. It's already started here-"The girl on the other side looks over, looks over, looks over ..." When others look askance, our boat has already flown away.
Thousands of waters are easy to go, but hometown is hard to leave. At that time, Mr. Shen Congwen left this sky with tears and went to live thousands of miles away; After his death, Mr. Wang returned to his dream and missed his motherland. Mr. Wang's cemetery is very simple, with mountains and rivers on its back, and a complete stone from the local area as a monument. "According to my thinking, you can understand me; According to my thinking, I can understand people. " This is a sentence that Mr. Wang is very proud of as an inscription. It is said that half of Mr. Wang's ashes are buried on the right side of the monument, and the other half is scattered into Tuojiang River. It is very gratifying to think of Mr. Lai who combines the masculine beauty of the mountain with the feminine spirit of the water. "A soldier dies in battle or goes back to his hometown." Mr. Wang is a man of his word.
There are three valuable cultural relics in Fenghuang Ancient City. Except Shen Congwen's cemetery, the other two former residences of Shen Congwen and Xiong Xiling are in the city. A stone road that keeps its original appearance will lead the simple Shan Ye atmosphere outside the city to the inside of the city. You can often meet many little girls selling honeysuckle on the roadside. They are as naive as honeysuckle in their hands, but they have begun to make a living. In this way, they also stand out and become a part of this town. In this case, I was moved by another emotion, another place under the distant sky.
Where there is a river, there is a bridge. We will be blessed when we get to Phoenix. The Hongqiao here can only be described in one word, beauty; If you must use two words, that is-beauty. The whole bridge is like a beautiful fragment, gently connecting the stories on both sides of the strait. In a sense, Phoenix is complete because of Hongqiao.
It is a rare blessing to be with the river. Water has a bad temper occasionally, so there must be towers along the river, which has become a part of China's architectural culture. Speaking of famous pagodas, people in small towns, old and young, will have many wonderful legends and stories to tell you. Thanks to this tower, the gentle temperament of Tuojiang River is fully revealed. This tower and the diaojiao building opposite the tower, this river and Hongqiao on the river are the favorite of art students, and most of the young painters on the river are them; Love is also a kind of injury, especially in China. As long as you have been to Ming Wan Tower, you will understand how helpless this kind of injury is to Phoenix.
The quaint folk customs of Phoenix still remain, but the development of business has increasingly invaded the tradition of this charming town. Eating in Phoenix is a very pleasant thing. Social dinner, Tuojiang catfish, fried salted eggs with corn and pepper, and fried bamboo shoots with meat are all memorable and economical dishes. There is no need to advertise the green food here, but the simple management of the shopkeeper surprises those of us who have stayed in big cities for a long time. There are not many shops in the town, but there are more and more foreigners, so "unscrupulous" foreigners have become a new fear and embarrassment for Phoenix people. This, as tourists, we are also deeply touched.
There is a famous snack street in the city at night, and there are many stalls on both sides of the street. A few simple small tables and stools, a few bamboo poles or wood hold up a sky; When the charcoal fire goes out, the spicy taste and fragrance of Toona sinensis, crab, leek and various farm vegetables have already permeated the air everywhere (of course, it takes courage and endurance to stay longer in this case, and the dirty air is a great test). Roast beef/mutton kebabs are a major local feature, and every family has delicious food; It's amazing that this remote town still has tents at this time. That's the condition. The rest depends on how you enjoy it. Overnight, we swept this small street three or two times before we went to bed contentedly and began to plan tomorrow's trip.
[2]- Huangsiqiao Ancient City
On May 3rd, there was a heavy rain in Qiliangdong, the ancient city of Huangsiqiao.
The rain of the phoenix made us hesitate for a while. The young heart finally got the upper hand, and we set off in the rain in the mountains. These tools are dangerous. Two people and a motorcycle. This kind of motorcycle is one of the main means of transportation in the city, such as taxis in the city, which are counted by the number of times rather than the number of people, and the price is cheap. All cities are in 2 yuan; Rent a car out of town for 50 yuan, and I can run with you for a day.
Huangsiqiao Ancient City and Nanchang City are in the same direction. The mountain road is rugged and the rain is constant. Phoenix Mountain is stony, and black is dotted with green grass. Is grass growing between stones or stones growing in grass? The ancient city of Huangsiqiao was built on such a small mountain plain. It is said that a long time ago, there was a river on the way to the ancient city. The bridge over the river was built by an old woman with her own money to sell yellow silk, hence the name of the ancient city. Phoenix folk custom can also be seen from this. This is the best preserved ancient city in China at present, which is also its architectural value. The ancient city wall is extremely well preserved and is the main attraction. The east, west and north gates have their own characteristics, and their functions at that time were also different. There is only one ancient fort in the south. There are allusions to this, so I'll leave it to you to ask the tour guide. The ancient city is a complete circle with a circumference of exactly 360 meters, which is somewhat mysterious and strange. The yamen in the city is alive, living in obscurity with the residents in the city.
The rain was so heavy that the plan to climb the South Great Wall was cancelled and we went directly to Qiliangdong.
Qiliangdong has its own personality and must be seen. It is said that before the development, white fog overflowing from caves often blocked traffic for miles, and people couldn't see their fingers inside. The most famous landscape in the cave is an oval stalactite hanging upright. Stone milk is hollow and looks like a hollowed-out bergamot. The flood at the top of the cave washed away the outer layer of milk stone, hit the ground and made a loud noise. Water drops, year after year, are slowly changing the face of stalactites all the time. There is an antique building next to the stone, like a mountain king's cabin. A closer look shows that it is a hundred tons of liquor sealed by a winery in western Hunan for the 2008 Olympic Games. This kind of architectural design, this kind of originality, makes people applaud. Qiliang cave is deep and rugged, and it takes more than three hours to go back and forth. Walking in the alternative space created by various stalactites, there will be a feeling of time stagnation. Look at the wall carefully, and the rock and soil are arranged layer by layer, which is sedimentary soil. Time thus created and changed this huge cave on the earth's surface, and the soil recorded time and preserved history in the same way. Occasionally, there will be some white milk flowers, or young stalactites that are growing. It will take decades or even hundreds of years to reach adulthood. Because it is deep and remote, refuge has become another major function of Qiliang Cave in history. It can shelter tens of thousands of villagers in wartime. This broad mind is rare in other caves in China. It is said that the Monkey King, Pig Bajie and the Heavenly Mother are also here. It is a pity that the tour guide used this story of "Great Harmony in the World" to ignore the unique features of Qiliangdong. People in China often try to cover up their lack of imagination and creativity with this pale language. I really hope that our next generation can grow up with more wonderful and creative fairy tales. The Monkey King is tired, so he should have a rest.
The night in Phoenix is colorful. We chose to watch the bonfire party held by the local national troupe to make it refreshing and feast our eyes. An old iron is very lucky. He took the opportunity to go on stage, wear miao clothing, sing Miao songs, and even learn to dance with beautiful Miao girls, regardless of his girlfriend. Happiness is his and happiness is ours. Girls in Xiangxi can sing, and their voices are so good that your mouth is watering. Welcoming new songs, crying wedding songs are sung one after another, and dances are performed one after another. There are local cultural customs and no commercial atmosphere. Tang Nuo Opera is the oldest cultural dance in China and a local treasure. Actors wear masks of ghosts in southern legends, and their costumes are obviously traditional wizard costumes. Driving away gods and catching ghosts is the eternal theme of dance, which changes time and space. On the night when the bonfire is lit, the practical effect of dance has given way to the spread of culture and the appreciation of art, which is beauty. What doesn't look good is that the real live performance of the Miao people going up the knife mountain and piercing the chest with steel needles is too bloody. I have always held a negative attitude towards all kinds of so-called "thrilling performances" at the expense of human nature. Between beauty and ugliness, the living Xiangxi national culture is displayed in front of us, which is a "dynamic" culture. After watching this party, you can't help but say that you don't understand Chu witch culture.
Ginger candy is our favorite snack. There are two local brands, one is Liu and the other is Zhang. Phoenix's moist, sensual enjoyment and health care value make it one of the famous local specialties.
[3]- South Great Wall
May 4th Tour of Xiaoyu Town-South Great Wall
It is still raining. The plan is adjusted again. Fortunately, there are many places worth visiting in Phoenix. Like Tianwang Temple.
Tianwang Temple was lost. There is a main hall in the north and south of the mountainside, and the walls, doors and windows are mottled. Tianwang Temple, also known as the Three Kings Temple, is a memorial to the Yang's three brothers in the Tang Dynasty. They have worked hard for the court and the Miao righteous for many years and killed many Miao people. Who knows that the blood of the Miao people has not dried yet, and the heads of the three brothers have been cut off by the court. Ghosts wander around the court and make a scene, which is why they come to this place with their fingers to be "kings". Woodcut comic books are a highlight of the small temple. The facial expressions of the characters are quite vivid, and their craftsmanship is highly appreciated. The north and south wing halls tell the sad stories of the seven fairies and the water margin respectively. I don't know what the Yang brothers are thinking, which is puzzling. The influence and infiltration of Han culture on ethnic minorities, as well as the cultural exchanges between ethnic groups in China, can also be read here. Equally puzzling is another woodcut: cows and elephants drink each other, only seen in life, and I don't know what the meaning is.
Wenchangge Primary School is a place where talented people come forth in large numbers. If you are in the mood, you can count the number of talents. After reflection, the problem comes out: the number of talents is bounded by 1949, and the density is particularly eye-catching. My mind froze at the thought of this. What I want to do now is Xu Xiake, not Lao Kong Lao Zhuang. There are many ancient trees in the school. Several ancient trees isolate the school playground from the sky, and there are hundreds of years old trees.
If the sky is ruthless, it will grow old. At noon, the rain stopped and the wind stopped. We set out for the South Great Wall. There is a shuttle bus in the city, 3 yuan/person. This is the only Great Wall in the south, and it is the lifelong pursuit and dream of Professor Zhang Shiyuan. Today, I also stand on this wall. Professor Zhang's excitement is incomprehensible, and the tragic scene in Inside and Outside the Blood-stained Wall is over. Everything can only be imagined, Jin Goma iron, swallowing Wan Li. As a part of history, the South Great Wall exists and is protected. Its sad and melancholy deep temperament is more like a flag on the mountain. It tells a story about the conflict between nations or between mainstream culture and local culture. There are no heroes and no winners. What is the value of existence without people?
Subverting heroes and sublimes is tantamount to mocking history. This ridiculous South Great Wall is a stone village in Pan Yun. The stockade is three or two miles away from the Great Wall, next to a hill, which is the main road between the Great Wall and the ancient city of Huangsiqiao. It used to be a post station of the imperial court, and the former horse farm has now become a hundred acres of fertile land. Shibanzhai has three characteristics: slate road (the road into the stockade and the road up the mountain are paved with slate), slate wall (the walls in the stockade village are all made of slate) and slate tile (the villages in the stockade village are all made of slate tile). This is unique among the residential buildings in China. Where did so many stone tablets come from? The answer lies in the Great Wall not far from the south. The South Great Wall is newly built, and the original old wall has reached the architectural characteristics of Shibanzhai in the form of folk houses. Nowadays, with the improvement of people's living standards, Shibanzhai has almost disappeared. In order to take a representative photo of Shibanzhai, I walked more than half of the stockade, but I was still not satisfied.
Isn't this history ironic?
[4]- Miao Village in Jiang Shan
On May 5th, it was raining lightly in Miaozhai City, Jiang Shan.
It is far from the largest stone bridge in the world, and the mountain road has a great difference in altitude. Sometimes our car has to go through the clouds. The ticket price is very cheap, 5 yuan/person. Of course, you have to be able to bargain. Our driver is a primary school math teacher, and the real driver is his wife; But his wife learned to drive from him. The driver didn't talk much, but after teaching us a few Miao words, we practiced all the way. The scenery in the mountains is great and won't make people feel bored.
The largest stone bridge in the world is very spectacular and ugly. The whole bridge is made of stone, connecting two mountains, with a large span, which is particularly majestic against the backdrop of the mountains. After returning from the largest stone bridge in the world, we went to a "very tasty" Miao village. The wild interest in the mountains is beautiful, simple and natural, but it is too "tasteful" (China's ethnic minorities often ignore the sanitary conditions).
Miao Village in Jiang Shan is a place with various customs. April 8 is the heart of the Miao people. Every year, on the eighth day of the fourth lunar month or every market day, Miao people have the feeling of celebrating the New Year, and the clothes and accessories that they are reluctant to put down are dazzling. Young people always look forward to this day. Every time they come here, they are in groups of three or five, six or seven people, and they cross more than ten miles or dozens of miles of mountain roads. When I see my favorite MM, I sing a touching love song with her. Wherever people go, songs follow them until MM is thin, low and a little shy. You'll have a chance. But you should also prepare hard. Miss her or she misses you, often for dozens of miles at night just to meet each other; Love birds wandered around the hut all night until dawn, and the figures jumping in the mountains were the people who returned in the morning. Singing and singing, MM's song rang, loud and clear, and she was going to get married. Aika people, like me, dare not sing here. Shame is unbearable.
Miao Village in Jiang Shan is also a place full of blood and tears. This used to be the ruling center of Miao King. The last seedling of the tree peeled by Wang Longyunhui still confirms history on the stage of April 8. Long Yun will be a controversial figure in history. Anti-Japanese and civil war; It is said that he loved the Miao people very much and killed many of his own. He skinned people, but only once; The man was a tailor, and he got Wang Miao's inner room. The past is gone forever, and Wang Miao's former residence has now become a museum of Miao customs (under construction). Walking in the mountains and rivers now, there are only lively people and rich daily necessities everywhere; There are few local products-it's a backcountry. The market is a precious social communication space for Miao people. People who left their homes gathered here from all directions, full of enthusiasm. Every transaction and negotiation is a real part of the planned life. Life has finally returned to its true colors.
Living in Chaoyang Palace is different. Chaoyang Palace is in Phoenix. This is a simple courtyard building in the south. Small as it is, it has its own free sky. The main color of the red building reminds you that this is not an ordinary place. You may not have been to Xiangxi, but you may have been in contact with Chaoyang Palace-the stage here is very famous, and it is an important scene of many film and television works such as Xiangxi Bandits, which is antique. Chaoyang Palace, named "Palace", is neither the home of royalty nor the blessed land of Taoism. Originally, it was only the ancestral temple of the local Chen family, but later it was in the hands of Chen Quzhen, the "King of Xiangxi", and it became the place where he and the bureaucratic rich gentry watched the play. This is another way of life in western Hunan.
The stage of Yangjia ancestral hall is also very good, and it looks like it. I think it must have been very nice to play against Chaoyang Palace. However, judging from the overall tone of the building, it seems to be a little worse: dark and dignified, after all, it is difficult to make a big red propaganda.
This is a treasure trove of geomantic omen with the capacity of hundreds of rivers. In a small Fenghuang county, Confucianism, Buddhism, Taoism, wisdom and God coexist. Confucianism has Confucius Wenchang Pavilion, and Taoism has Jiangxi Wanshou Palace. Zhunti Temple is the Buddhism of Phoenix. The appearance is not outstanding, and it can even be called humble. It actually contains ten Buddhist paintings by Mr. Huang Yongyu, with a total value of millions. What's even more amazing is that buddhist nun's teachers seem to know nothing about the value of these paintings and are unmoved. Bodhi is neither a tree nor a mirror. It is nothing, no matter what it is, where will there be any dust? The world is empty. Perhaps this is where the teacher in Buddhism is superior to me.
Phoenix people's attachment and affection for their homeland is a legendary story. Whether Chen Quzhen, the "King of Xiangxi" wearing a warlord hat, or Mr. Huang Yongyu, who is famous all over the world, or others care about and influence the spirituality and ethos of this land in different ways. Phoenix is really blessed!
That night 10: 52, take K504 from Jishou to Guangzhou and fly to Shanghai.