202 1 damei's travels in Xinjiang-no12 the first impression of southern Xinjiang
Although based on the general recognition of Xinjiang travel-northern Xinjiang plays with nature and southern Xinjiang plays with humanities, people have different views on what is "humanistic travel".
When it comes to local museums, it is humanistic. Speaking of the local night market snack street, that is humanities. Speaking of the indigenous people in the deep alleys of the old city, drinking tea is humanistic. Anyway, just have fun.
My personal understanding is that going to the scenery means playing with the scenery, and going to the people means playing with the humanities.
Kuqa is a bit unfair.
It is precisely because of the "Duku Highway" that Dushanzi is more famous for independence, and then warehousing. In addition to letting people cross the Dooku Highway, there is a little splash at the end-Kuqa Grand Canyon, which many people regard as the existence of eating, sleeping, parking and refueling.
At this time, someone must come out-Kuqa Wang Fu, Kuqa ancient town, mosque with beautiful corner cloister, historic one, ancient capital old street, ancient capital market ... and of course, the famous Kuqa Da 'nan 'an and Kuqa Da 'nan 'an City.
Yes, yes, both, but almost nothing. At least when I went, there was hardly any. The reason-the epidemic must have an impact, and then ... I sighed and said I was afraid of being caught.
Kuqa Wang Fu had no choice. Unless you don't want to spend tickets and time in 55 yuan, then this interesting town may really only have a weak boat. Museums are naturally one of the best choices to learn about a place. For pure landscape lovers and people who come and go in a hurry, Kuqa Palace is very boring, but taking time to stroll is still full of gains.
But my biggest gain in Kuqa still comes from the enjoyment of taste.
This is a mint-flavored drink. It is a unique taste to dig out the local popsicles in the freezer. The mint after ice makes you "crystal clear and cool".
Milk beer is a surprise for me who is both a milk lover and a beer lover.
After all, in the mainland, you can only get a certain milk beer through personal e-commerce, and it will take a long time. It is a good thing that Kuqa (not limited to Kuqa, but happened to be in Kuqa) has collected so many kinds of milk and beer. If you are not afraid to drink it all at once and are suspected of drunk driving, you must make a horizontal evaluation at the first time.
In view of the abnormal audit mechanism of many platforms, all product names have been removed from the shelves. Personally, I am used to drinking the second kind of left hand, Tianmou milk beer. But after a round of five kinds of drinks, the milk beer on the right tastes fuller and even a little "stunned", but I like this rich frankincense.
Riding a little blue to visit the ancient city can at least avoid some heat, and punch in the only meaningful site of "Kucha Ancient Country"-Pyrrho Pier-Pyrrho is an elephant, a mound like an elephant. Qiuci is an ancient country with an autumn voice and a word voice. Don't shout "Gui Hezi" from the beginning like me.
Pyrrho Dui silently waited for the passage of time, telling the endless love of the king of the daughter country-yes, this is the daughter country that Tang Priest passed through ... Although there are many historical arguments, Xuanzang's lecture here is a true message, "I happened to see only the women in the country" but I didn't know that "the men in the country happened to work on the other side of the river".
If we hadn't consulted and accumulated some fragmentary knowledge of "Thirty-six Western Regions" (see appendix), Kuqa and even most parts of southern Xinjiang, such as Kashgar, would have encountered some embarrassment of "not knowing why" to some extent.
But it doesn't matter, because ... for some reason, it just exists. I don't think anyone wants to stop too much except the students of archaeology department.
The reason why this Pyrrho pile can arouse my interest is just to punch in according to the treasure map set by LP Xinjiang. Next to it is a wide road. This mound has witnessed the vicissitudes of history and will continue to witness cars coming and going. That's all. Nobody's watching.
Two more "boring"-LP implicitly expresses the helplessness of the demolition and construction of the ancient city, and here I want to+1 again.
Even as the most important old street in front of Kuqa Wang Fu, it is horribly cold. Only a large area of the construction site in the north of the road occasionally jingles, and the driveway behind the street facade is only a little old-fashioned, so you can take pictures at any time. It is somewhat helpless to be banned by an old man waving his hand and not taking pictures of people or empty streets.
Along the way, I met people who were tired of navigating with their mobile phones, and returned to the closed mosque door surrounded by several deserted vendors in disappointment. We are still in the ranks of+1
Finally, it is interesting to say that when we arrived in Kuqa, we finally encountered the biggest difficulty in traveling in southern Xinjiang-language barrier.
As the birthplace of Putonghua standard, Chengde people basically "go abroad" here. The restaurant is full of languages you don't understand. Vendors can talk to you briefly and ask a few more questions, and both sides can only smile awkwardly.
The window unit was ok, but when I was asked about the itinerary by two phones, it was really comparable to the listening difficulty of Japanese N 1. Fortunately, the journey is stormy, and three sentences can reassure the other party-I made nucleic acid, I stayed in a hotel and left tomorrow.
When I woke up, I suddenly remembered a strongly recommended place-Wuqia Night Market. If you only have one day's rest in Kuqa, you must give the night in Kuqa to Wuqia Night Market. The local Uighur friends' own night market is delicious. The key is to have a special national flavor. At least ... I don't understand a word. Just scan the code and pay. That's awesome. Please don't talk to me about big cities and Taikooli night market. If you go to Taikooli, you might as well fly to Chengdu, hahaha. )
Yes, this is Kuqa, which is said to be called Oriental Morocco.
* * * * * The dividing line of a little excitement * * * * * *
Hey, get up!
I still remember in my previous travel notes that if you have planned Wensu Grand Canyon, Kuqa Grand Canyon and Tianshan Grand Canyon can be ignored.
Wensu Grand Canyon is a tangled existence. Among its greatest charms, nature's masterpieces are worth visiting, but this is only half the reason why Wensu Grand Canyon is charming.
Wensu Grand Canyon is the top experience for driving through the desert. In addition to all kinds of legends about traffic jams on the Internet, there are a series of complicated procedures such as signing responsibility letters at the ticket office and pressing fingerprints. Then the shuttle bus in the scenic spot will give you a fright-super horsepower and super high ground clearance. These diesel devourers remind you all the time that it is forbidden to drive without high horsepower.
In the figure of Highlander Pajero, a group of road patrol Le Tu, the little brother who checked in gave me Vitera's affirmative eyes and nodded in support of us, saying-definitely no problem. Yes, even if something goes wrong, the rescue phone that can be dialed at any time is impressive. Isn't it the rescue fee of 450?
Facts have proved that the hard-core cross-country family gene endows Vitera with strong cross-country passability. The whole desert pattern is padlocked and unimpeded. Even in the pure sand sea area, all kinds of quicksand are happy, but a few times because the chassis is low, it is a bit worrying to hear the rustling of sand in the chassis armor.
The weather in the Grand Canyon is changeable. As long as it rains, several routes with the best scenery will be closed. We got off at Levin and got to Line 3. When we reached the top of the mountain, it was covered with dark clouds. We came back to get ready to enter Line 4. On a tall off-road pickup truck, the dark security officer gave us a sign to leave immediately, which scared me to death.
Line 567 is less affected by the weather, but it is not so good, but it is still very exciting to talk about self-driving in your throat. If there were no drones, I probably wouldn't have photographed me raising dust all the way in the desert. It was really exciting. If you happen to pass by Wensu to Kashgar, it is also a four-wheel drive, so you can play here.
* * * * * Visit the dividing line of Bazaar * * * * *
A market is a market. Or an episode in the north. Markets in different places have different "positive days", that is, market days. Of course, like Urumqi International Bazaar, it has been alienated into a shopping mall, so there is no so-called Bazaar Day, but Bazaar in southern Xinjiang is not so easy to serve. There are only a few people in Bazaar. When it comes to Bazaar, Song Dandan really said it. "It's a sea of people ..."
In addition to the Urumqi International Grand Bazaar just mentioned, there are several other famous Grand Bazaars in Xinjiang (now learning and selling)-
Thursday market day, village market in Selibuya town (verified).
Hetian jade stone market, Friday is market day, and some people say Sunday is market day.
Yutian worships Bazaar first, and Bazaar Day on Saturday.
Cattle and sheep market in Tuntian Township, Kashgar, market day Sunday (verified).
Kashi East Bazaar, Sunday Bazaar Day (verified).
Hotan Aitika Grand Bazaar, Sunday Bazaar Day, is said to have been closed for verification.
Therefore, if you have a long-term plan for southern Xinjiang, and you just want to plan all the bazaars, it is still difficult. Here, I recommend sharing:
1. Starting from Kuqa and passing through Wensu Grand Canyon, you can eat grilled fish in bachu county, then swing to Bazaar in Selibuya town on Thursday, and then leave for Kashgar. The trip lasts at least two days.
2. The two markets in Kashgar will be settled in a Sunday. Go to Niu Niu market in the morning and start at 9 o'clock. It is said that noon is the peak time, but I have to leave at 10: 30, because I have to catch another East Bazaar. This will be described in detail in Kashgar later.
3. Hetian jade bazaar goes shopping on Friday and drives to Yutian to eat bazaar on Saturday. On Sunday, I either went to the Emerald Bazaar or took the desert road directly back to Kuqa-this route was just my plan, but it didn't come true.
Specifically, the line 1.
We originally planned this way, but due to some temporary interruptions, we actually came out of Wensu Grand Canyon, ate a grilled fish in Bachu in a hurry, and then went straight to Kashgar to get the border defense certificate and got on the China-Pakistan highway. (The picture above is not grilled fish in bachu county, but it is similar. When ordering, the little girl said that neither of us could eat a fish. I am prepared in my heart, and I plan to pack and cook dinner after eating. However, after the grilled fish came up, people became stupid. If we eat without restraint, four people can eat a grilled fish.
Therefore, in our actual trip, Bazaar, Selibuya Town, set out from Kashgar to and from Selibuya Town alone the next day. However, I have basically run all the sections of this route planning, and there is no problem in time allocation. You can refer to it with peace of mind. It is important to catch up with Thursday's market day.
Bazaar village in Selibuya town does not waste the consumption of 400 kilometers to and from Kashgar. Although it has been seriously affected by the epidemic with naked eyes, its scale and rural flavor-if we look at the whole Bazaar, we will not exceed 65,438+00 travelers-are worth the price of oil.
Language is still the biggest obstacle, but a smile is an eternal passport. Many things are limited to the expression of price and the feedback of successful payment. If you ask a name or a senior acquaintance, people in southern Xinjiang will enthusiastically explain it to you, and we can only end up laughing. For example, in the picture above, the old man selling cut tobacco insisted on rolling me a local cigarette. Long after I told him to quit, he was very cooperative and happy to let me take pictures, probably because he didn't know the language.
The first time I saw the Niu Niu market, I was shocked, and the cows were buzzing. The buyers and sellers haggled fiercely. Anyway, you don't understand a word as much as I do, so consider them quarreling.
In fact, the cattle and sheep market in the wasteland of Kashgar is similar to here, but as long as you have been to two cattle and sheep markets yourself, you can immediately appreciate the difference between them. For example, tie the sheep in a row or a circle, hahaha, you can't see this in other places, so you must find the people and the locals.
By the way, how much do people here like sugar? A pot of white sugar slush and a pot of brown sugar slush, here, without metformin, it is difficult for patients with weak blood sugar to move.
The scenery in southern Xinjiang is much less than that in northern Xinjiang, but there are "people"! Continuing westward, the sentence "Xinjiang cannot be counted until it reaches Kashgar" was broken. All of a sudden, you are very excited, very excited. Many years ago, the list of various plans for the ancient city of Kashgar was crossed off one by one.
Kashgar, I'm coming! Although the truth is that you can't enter the ancient city three times.
to be continued
Appendix: foster mothers of 36 countries in the western regions
① Wusun-near Yining City in Xinjiang and parts of Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan.
(2) Qiuci-Kuqa and Baicheng in Xinjiang today.
(3) Yanqi-now Yanqi Hui Autonomous County, Xinjiang.
④ Yutian-Hotan area in Xinjiang today.
(5) Ruoqiang-today Ruoqiang, southeast of Xinjiang, northwest of Lop Nur, closest to Guyangguan.
Loulan-Now Xinjiang is in the desert near Lop Nur in Bayinguoleng Mongolian Autonomous Prefecture. Later it was renamed Shanshan. Existing Loulan site.
(7) Qiemo-In the southwest of Qiemo County, Xinjiang, there are twenty miles of ancient cities standing around, with intermittent walls. Tang Xuanzang studied the scriptures and stayed here.
(8) Xiaowan-now Chenhe South, Qiemo, Xinjiang, has a population of only 1500, the smallest in China.
(9) Ronglu-now south of yutian county, Xinjiang.
(10) Midong, Cele County, southern Xinjiang.
(1 1) Qule-now the south of Qira County, Xinjiang. The above four small countries, all in the east of Hotan, were wiped out by the Taklimakan Desert.
(12) Pishan-At present, in the southeast of Pishan County, Xinjiang, near Tibet and Guangxi, there is still the Hanpishan National Town Fair, which is called the Broken City by the locals.
(13) West Night-southwest of Pishan in Xinjiang today.
(14) Puli-the area in the east of Yecheng, Xinjiang.
(15) Yi 'nai-Yi 'nai and Puli, which are southeast of Yengisar and east of Lecouls in Xinjiang, are small in area, but they have been the main roads between east and west since the Han and Tang Dynasties. Tang Xuanzang took this route when he returned to China from Tianzhu (now India).
(16) shache-now shache county in southern Xinjiang, was later annexed by Yutian.
(17) Shule-today's Kashgar City and Shule County in Xinjiang.
(18) Weitou-Wushi and Bachu in southern Xinjiang today.
(19) Wensu-Aksu and Wensu areas in Xinjiang today.
(20) Yuli-Korla and Yuli in Xinjiang today. Later, it was annexed by Yan Qi.
(XXI) Gu Mo-Baicheng area in southern Xinjiang today.
(22) Beilu-now north of Fukang County, Xinjiang.
(23) Greed-Now Xinjiang is far from Manas North and Changji.
(24) Low-lying country-east of Fukang County, Xinjiang today.
(25) Shan Huan-now northeast of Manas, Xinjiang.
(twenty-six) Pu-present northwest of Xinjiang Barkun Kazak Autonomous County.
(XXVII) Post-Puguo —— Northwest of Barkun Kazak Autonomous County in Xinjiang today.
(28) Xihe Mi-now southeast of Wusu County, Xinjiang.
(twenty-nine) East and Mi-west of Changji County, Xinjiang today.
(30) Robbery of the country-northeast of Hutubi in Xinjiang today.
(3 1) moustache-now the northern part of Turpan, Xinjiang.
(32) Guo Shan-the eastern part of Yuli County in southern Xinjiang.
(33) Che's old country-today's jiaohe city, Turpan City, Xinjiang.
(34) Cheguo-Urumqi, Xinjiang and its vicinity.
(35) Wei Duguo, the company car, is now southeast of Turpan, Xinjiang.
(36) After the car division, the city state is now in Qitai area of Xinjiang.