Daochangshan Wanshou Temple and Duobao Pagoda: perhaps the most tourist attractions in Huzhou
I went to Huzhou Daochang Mountain for a tour. After I came back, I felt that the relevant historical and cultural background was too complicated and the amount of information was too large. I didn’t know how to record the travel. After a week of grinding, I almost got sick. Finally, It took me three days to make up my mind to put an end to it, but the result was a piece of foot-binding cloth. have no choice.
Daochangshan Wanshou Zen Temple and Duobao Pagoda: Perhaps the most tourist attractions in Huzhou (Part 1)
@铁山青士(Laughing Alone) [narrative]
On May 14, 2020, Daochangbang Village in the south of Huzhou City, Wanshou Temple and Duobao Pagoda in Daochang Mountain.
I have recently been stuck in Huzhou for some reason. Since May 8, I have been visiting one or two places in the city and suburbs of Huzhou every day to visit places of interest. I have already visited Wuchenmen Village and Jingaishan Ancient Plum Blossom Temple. (Chunyang Palace), Xiajian City Ruins, Fengsheng Gate (Xiangwang Park), Feiying Tower (Feiying Park), Pan Gong Bridge, Chen Yingshi Tomb, Lianhuazhuang (Lianhuazhuang Park), Luotuo Bridge, Yishang Street, Mansion Temple, Huzhou Zicheng city wall ruins, Tiefo Temple, Pishan Ciyun Temple, today is the seventh day, and I went to Daochang Mountain Wanshou Temple and Duobao Pagoda.
What I want to say is that among these seven days, today is the most satisfying day for me. There are two main reasons: First, Wanshou Zen Temple and Duobao Pagoda not only have stories to listen to, but also things to see. Wanshou Zen Temple in particular has both style and heritage (it deserves to be called the "No. 1 Taoist Temple in Huzhou" and one of the "Five Mountains and Ten Ten Temples" recognized by the Southern Song Dynasty court. One of the Zen temples in the temple); secondly, the two-section ancient road leading up the mountain made me sweat profusely. Weigh out the natural ecological environment and air). Based on this, I think I can seriously recommend Daochang Mountain to my friends who have the opportunity to go to Huzhou.
From the top of the dojo to the foothills of the mountain, there are clear cloud peaks above and deep valleys below.
I came from a cave of mountains and rivers, but I still love this mountain and don’t see enough of it.
The entire line of Pi Lake is white, and the green hills suddenly turn into coils of dragons and snakes.
There is no wind in the high mountains, and the pine trees make their own noise, mistaking the sound of stone teeth to stir up the turbulence.
The mountain monk does not let the mountain spring flow out, and the clear pool under the house shines on the Yao mat.
Hold each other in front of the steps, the incense fills the clouds, and the immortals plant them with their own hands in the moon.
Going out of the mountain and looking back at the green clouds, the misty green tiles and red railings.
I asked about the route at the head of the Baishui field. What mountain is deep in the stream?
The master studied all night long, and the cranes are still singing in the middle of the night.
I have given up studying and will not return to the mountains. I sigh at the empty wine in the mountains.
This is Su Shi's ancient poem "Wandering to Daochang Mountain, He Mountain". The whole poem is quoted here because I couldn't let go of Daochang Mountain after reading this ancient poem recently. On the Sohu account of Minglu Bookstore, I saw the "Dojo Poems" written by Zhao Mengfu, the grandson of his eldest brother Zhao Mengdi (Diyindi). Although at first reading, Su Shi’s description of the benefits of Daochang Mountain and He Mountain (namely Jingai Mountain, also called He Mountain because He Kai, the governor of Wuxing in the Eastern Jin Dynasty once opened a reading hall on the mountain) is not fully understood, the third and fourth The sentence "I come from the caves of mountains and rivers, but I still love this mountain and don't understand it" is very easy to understand (it is said that the place name "Aishan" in the center of Huzhou City comes from this). I'm glad that I finally made the decision to go there and have the ambition to reach the top.
Why is this ancient poem by Su Shi chanted by Daochang Mountain and He Mountain? Presumably in Su Shi's eyes, Daochang Mountain and He Mountain are two scenic spots in one. In fact, this is exactly the case. Daochang Mountain and He Mountain face each other and are both part of the northern extension of Dongtianmu Mountain. "The top of the Taoist temple is at the foot of the mountain, and the cloud peaks are as high as the peaks and the valleys are below." What do these first two sentences mean? In this regard, "Wu Xingzhi" of Jiatai in the Southern Song Dynasty explained that "the Taoist mountain is better at the top of the mountain, and Heshan is better at the bottom of the mountain." It also quoted Wang Zao, a writer of the Southern Song Dynasty, as saying: "Those who visit the Taoist temple are like entering the home of a prince. Crossing Heshan "It's like building a house for an eminent hermit." "The lake is all white, and the green hills are suddenly like dragons and snakes." These two sentences refer to the "white lake" that can be seen everywhere in the lake city (the 1967's of the last century). Before the "Lake Reclaiming for Farming" in the 1900s, the Bilang Lake that could be overlooked from the top of the Daochang Mountain was vast and should have been a "white expanse"), but Daochang Mountain and Heshan Mountain suddenly appeared like a "dragon and snake disk". In front of you. Then three couplets and six sentences describe what he saw and heard in Dojo Mountain, explaining why he "loves" and "sees shortcomings".
"Going out of the mountain and looking back at the green clouds, the misty green tiles and red railings." This is what I saw when I looked back when I came down from Daochang Mountain. "I asked about the route at the head of the Baishui field. What mountain is deep in the stream?
"This means that when you ask for directions in Wuchenmen Village at the foot of the mountain, you will know how to get to Heshan Mountain, because there is a Xunzhen River connecting the ancient Plum Blossom Temple and Wuchenmen Village (the stream is said to be the "Penglai Changshi Yin" in the late Eastern Han Dynasty). "No Self" was originally opened by Qu Zhen, the 24th generation grandson of Qu Yuan who was Yan Tieyin, when he was practicing Taoism in Jin Gai Mountain. Now it only leads to the Jin Gai Mountain Tourist Highway where the "Gu Mei Villa" stone archway is located). "Gao People study till midnight, and the cranes in the mountains are still singing in the middle of the night. "This should be an allusion to the story that He Kai, the prefect of Wuxing in the Eastern Jin Dynasty, once opened a reading hall on Jingai Mountain. "I have given up my studies and will not return to the mountains. I sigh at the empty wine in the mountains." The two "mountains" in these last two sentences I mean the first one refers to Jingai Mountain, and the second one refers to Daochang Mountain.
Alas, I seem to be interpreting this ancient poem, so let’s get back to the subject. I should say. We went to Daochang Mountain and Duobao Pagoda instead of Wanshou Temple. Daochang Mountain is located 5 kilometers south of Huzhou City, covering an area of about 8 square kilometers, and the highest peak is 210.7 meters above sea level. "The water and stone are refreshing, and it is the best in Wuxing", so "tourists in ancient and modern times are attracted by it". In the "Huzhou Prefecture Chronicles" written by Wanli in the Ming Dynasty, "Taochang Xiaoji" was listed as the first among the "Eight Scenic Spots in Wuxing" (the remaining seven sceneries are in order They are Qingqiu in Cangben, Late Fishing in Xisai, Long Smoke in Xiasi, Cloud Return in Longdong, Dusk in Hengshan, Rain in Nanhu, and Clouds in Jingai. Among them, "Longdong" refers to Huanglong Cave in Bianshan, and "Hengshan" is in Wuchen in the south of the city. On the east side of Menhe River, "Nanhu" refers to Bilang Lake)
Before that, I went to Wuchenmen Village to visit Jingaishan Ancient Plum Blossom Temple, Xiajiancheng Ruins, and to Suwan Village to find Bilang. When I was in Langhu, I had already taken the No. 307 bus twice, which runs every one to an hour and a half, so when I returned to the Auto Parts City Station and took the No. 307 bus to Daochang Mountain, I felt like I was familiar with the road. I got off at Wanshou Temple Station. The bus is just six stops away. Wanshou Temple stands in Daochangbang Village. After arriving, there are signs on the roadside guiding me to the entrance of the Wanshou Temple Ancient Road. At the entrance of the ancient road, there is a stone archway inscribed by Zhao Puchu with the words "Thousand-year-old Temple" on the back. "The four characters correspond to the name of the temple "Wanshou Temple" on the forehead. The ancient road is not only quiet, but also remote, with both ancient flavor and wild interest. It feels quite enjoyable.
The ancient road is halfway up the mountain (actually according to the The journey to the top (which is only one-third of the way) was interrupted, and then we had to take the winding mountain road. It is worth mentioning that there is a "Guanghao Pavilion" here, which was built during the Republic of China (1933). (It is said that there were ten pavilions on the ancient road, and Guanghao Pavilion was the latest one to be built). When I walked from the ancient road to the winding mountain road and saw this pavilion, I saw a white car parked in front of it. The first thing that caught my eye was the four words "Flying the Road Pankong". Then after turning to the pavilion, I saw the four words "famous mountains bring beauty". At the same time, the couplets on the pavilion pillars on both sides also aroused my interest. The couplet says: Visitors at the foot of Taochang Mountain fell in love with the lonely pavilion during a sudden rain, and met Guiyun Nenghuahe by the Bilang Lake (the author's signature is "Shiyuan Wang Kunyi"). Then he turned from the back of the pavilion to the front of the pavilion, and then he saw the "famous mountain." On the back of "Shengse" is the name of the pavilion, and the couplets on the pillars on both sides are: If you want to have no regrets, you must first cultivate yourself, everyone has his or her own reasons, and don't envy others (the author's signature is "Li Weiheng, a native of Yi").
Then I I met a man in his prime and a young woman coming down the mountain. I asked the man if I could go up to the Duobao Pagoda. The man said it was closed and I could only go up a little further. It was right in front. I thought I would go up even if I could only go a little further. I went up to take a look, so I continued walking up... When I arrived at the outskirts of Wanshou Temple, the first thing I saw was the closed Tianwang Hall and the old man dozing off guarding the incense stall in front of the hall. I thought, "It is indeed closed." Then he said a few words to the old man in a greeting style. I said that many temples are not open now, and the Iron Buddha Temple in the city is not open either. I can only go around the temple to look at the appearance of the building. The old man also replied to my words, but he did not tell me whether the Wanshou Temple was open (of course, I I didn’t even ask him). Later, while walking around the temple, I discovered the main entrance of Wanshou Temple (the name of the temple was also inscribed by Zhao Puchu), and there was an open door, as if to say, "This temple is important to believers and "Tourists should be open to the Internet", which really makes me overjoyed!
In this way, I entered the Wanshou Zen Temple. The first thing I noticed was the Duobao Pagoda on the top of the temple building above the temple building. I started to look at it with anxiety, and I was worried that someone would come out and chase me out. It turned out that the few people I met were not monks. A middle-aged woman should be a support staff of the temple, and the two young men should be tourists.
During this time, I met two young men when a squirrel made a shrill call. I was a little surprised when I heard it. I thought it was a crow and said to myself, "What is this sound?" One young man told me It was a squirrel being chased by a cat. I immediately saw the squirrel scurrying around desperately in the old tree, but I didn't see the cat.
(Unfinished)
Daochangshan Wanshou Temple and Duobao Pagoda: Perhaps the most tourist attractions in Huzhou (Part 2)
@铁山青士 (laughs Walking Alone) [Narrative]
(continued)
The main building of Wanshou Temple that I saw first was the Main Hall, followed by the Drum Tower, Dabei Hall, Release Pond, and Ksitigarbha Hall, Guanyin Hall and Yuantong Hall, followed by Jialan Hall and Wealth Hall, Ten Thousand Buddhas Hall and Manjusri Hall, eminent monks’ tomb tower group (four), Shengquan Pavilion and Yingmu Ancient Well... During this period, my feeling is that these main buildings except In addition to its own characteristics, the most important thing is that it is very particular about distribution and coordination. It is said that it is fully integrated with the mountain shape. In short, it has a sense of unity and ingenuity.
The most noteworthy one is the Yingmu Ancient Well (covered by a "Holy Spring Pavilion") located on the east side of the temple, not far from the entrance of Denduo Pagoda, because there is a legend behind it. With. There is a shrine embedded in the stone wall on the side of the well, with the four characters "Yingmu Ancient Well" engraved on it. There is a couplet engraved on both sides, which goes: "In the Tang Dynasty, when the shadow tree was opened, the clear light reconstructed the Tiaoquan." Legend has it that Zen Master Rune was there in the late Tang Dynasty. When building a temple, he begged for wood, but was hindered by the high peaks and steep roads. He persuaded the Dragon King of the East China Sea to help dig a well and transport the wood, and it was completed overnight.
By the way, I have to briefly outline the history of Wanshou Temple. The Wanshou Zen Temple in Daochang Mountain was built in the late Tang Dynasty. The founder of the temple was Zen Master Rune (because at the beginning of the establishment of the temple, he subdued the tigers in Daochang Mountain without any anger or blood, so later generations often called him "Zen Master Fuhuhu Rune"). During the Five Dynasties, King Qian Liu of Wuyue inscribed it with the title "Wuxing Zhengzhen Zen Temple". In the early years of the Northern Song Dynasty, it was renamed "Miaojue Temple". Later in the same period, he was awarded the title "Gusheng Wanshou Zen Temple". In the middle of the Southern Song Dynasty, it became one of the "Five Mountains and Ten Temples" (ranked second among the "Ten Temples"). It was destroyed by war in the late Yuan Dynasty and rebuilt again, and was rebuilt in the early Ming Dynasty. In the middle of the Qing Dynasty, the imperial court began to carve "Longzang" (i.e., "The Tripitaka compiled by the Qing Dynasty") and completed it, and was awarded a part of it for Tibetan Buddhism. It was destroyed by fire again in the late Qing Dynasty. At the end of the Qing Dynasty, it was given a copy of "Long Zang" by the emperor and rebuilt. It took more than fifty years to restore to its previous scale. The current Wanshou Temple took fifteen years to be restored successively after 1984. It is said that Wanshou Temple is both prosperous and full of disasters.
Due to accidental carelessness, I did not go to the back of the Main Hall and did not conduct a blanket search. Therefore, Qianfo Pavilion, Sutra Library, Dharma Hall, Abbot Tower, Ancestral Hall, etc., and Yao I didn’t see the Xi Chi, the Dongpo Inkstone Washing Pond, or the stone carvings with inscriptions of prayers for good luck that are said to be located on the northeast side of the temple. In particular, the stone carvings with prayer inscriptions that reflect the situation when the highest official of Huzhou Road, Daruhua Chi, ascended the Daochang Mountain to pray for a good harvest at the end of the Yuan Dynasty. It is said to be one of the two historic sites in the Daochang Mountain along with the Yingmu Ancient Well. It just became a national key site in October last year. It's a cultural relic protection unit. It's a pity that I didn't see it. I checked the photos taken by netizens, and it is indeed as described by the official that it is "well preserved and the handwriting is clear", and the calligraphy has the feeling of "powerful and vivid."
Also, the Temple of the Heavenly King is facing dozens of stone steps. I did not find out what kind of road was under the stone steps, so I missed the "Dongpo Old Road" which is said to be Su Shi's way up the mountain. I don’t know what it has to do with the ancient road) and Zen Master Rune’s “Fuhu Pavilion” rebuilt over the millennium (and Fuhu Rock, which is said to be halfway to the mountain on the east side of the Sutra Library, about a few hundred steps away from the temple, I Haven’t seen it either). This was all the result of not doing enough homework. I regretted it when I found out afterwards, but at the same time I felt that there was no need to blame myself, because the historical and cultural background of Wanshou Temple is too complicated, the amount of information is too large, and it is indeed difficult to systemize it in a hurry. Absorbed and completely digested.
At the same time, I suddenly realized that my lack of calmness (a little nervous and a little impatient) when visiting Wanshou Temple should be the culprit of my carelessness. Because I was anxious to climb to the top and see the Duobao Pagoda, I actually didn’t discover Yingmu Ancient Well until I came down from the top of the mountain. Afterwards, I thought to myself, if I had missed the Yingmu Ancient Well, I would have spent a long time in the Wanshou Temple and really didn’t know what I had seen.
At that time, I felt that I had "finished visiting" the Wanshou Zen Temple, so I walked through the entrance of the Dengduobao Pagoda I discovered (the sign is an archway with the word "Prajna" on the front and the word "Jingjin" on the back. ) continued up the mountain. This is the experience of the second section of the ancient road.
Compared with the ancient road from the foot of the mountain to the winding mountain road, I feel that this ancient road is longer and the stone steps are a bit steeper. It is more than bright and transparent, but not quiet and desolate. The most distinctive thing is that the road near the top of the mountain can occasionally be seen. A bluestone slab with lotus pods carved on it. Halfway up the road, there is a dilapidated pavilion that seems not very particular and has a folk style. On the side facing the top of the mountain, two sentences are written (rather than engraved) on two stone pillars. The words are: Sit in the pavilion to talk about the old and absorb the new. Climb to the top and look at the world. "Looking at the world" and "exposing the old and adopting the new" are not the same, and they are obviously not the work of experts. There are four sentences posted on one side of the beam in the pavilion, which are pretty good. They say: kindness must be repaid, love must be returned, the heart must be at peace, and mistakes must be corrected.
There is a very new-looking "Zhuma Pavilion" at the top of the mountain (it feels like it is not appropriate to compare resting and breathing to "Zhuma Pavilion", and it lacks ancient charm), overlooking Dojo Bang Village. The large area extending outwards has a good view (so you can actually see the pavilion when you look up at Duobao Pagoda from the road at the foot of the mountain). On the side of the pavilion facing the top of the mountain, a rock where you can sit and lie is casually engraved with the words "The World is a World". " and "Don't do any evil", and there seems to be a small path in front of the left side of the pavilion (I didn't find out where it came from). While resting in Zhumating to catch my breath, I met two young men from Guizhou (a little younger than the two young men I met in Wanshou Temple) and had a casual chat. What surprised me was that these two young men did not reach the top in the end. When I came down from the top, they had disappeared.
The first thing you see when you climb to the top is the plaque of "Fo Guang Qinglian Society" next to the Duobao Pagoda, and then there is the Duobao Pagoda with seven floors and eight sides, with pagodas on it. It is exquisite, elegant, tall and elegant. Without losing solemnity. Thinking that Duobao Pagoda is also known as Wenbi Pagoda, and Hubi, which is as famous as Hui ink, rice paper, and Duan inkstone, comes from Huzhou, it feels quite fitting. It is said that this Duobao Pagoda and the ancient white marble well dug in the Iron Buddha Temple in the mid-Ming Dynasty have always been regarded as the two major symbols of Huzhou's cultural heritage.
Duobao Pagoda, commonly known as the Taoist Tower, was built in the early Northern Song Dynasty. It was overhauled in the mid-to-late Ming Dynasty and rebuilt in the mid-to-late Qing Dynasty. Due to years of disrepair since the late Qing Dynasty, all the eaves of the tower collapsed, leaving only a few rafters outside the tower. The current Duobao Pagoda was rebuilt in 1988. The tower is a brick-wood structure with eight outer sides and a square interior. Each floor has an eaves protruding from the eaves. The cornices are angled, and the wind bells are hung under the eaves. The seven-story iron cast pagoda is 33 meters tall. meters, the outer wall of the ground floor is 1.98 meters wide.
In the meantime, there is a legend-like story about the construction of Duobao Pagoda. According to Huzhou local chronicles, there has never been a champion in Huzhou during the Tang Dynasty and Northern Song Dynasty. The eminent monks of the Wanshou Temple believed that the reason why Huzhou had no outstanding people was because Daochang Mountain was Wenbi Mountain, which was lower than other states, so he begged for alms and built pagodas, which were as outstanding as pens. This year is Guichou (1073), the sixth year of Xining in the Northern Song Dynasty. The eminent monk said: In another thirty years, Huzhou will be able to produce the number one scholar. As a result, during the reign of Daguan and Zhenghe in the Northern Song Dynasty, two students from Huzhou won the first prize. Moreover, from then until the Jiajing period of the Ming Dynasty, every ugly year, there were people in Huzhou who were promoted to high positions. Of course, this may just be a coincidence, but it has contributed to the reputation of Duobao Pagoda.
I had seen a Manjusri Hall together with the Ten Thousand Buddhas Hall in the Wanshou Zen Temple before, but I didn’t expect that there was another Manjusri Hall on the top of the mountain. I suspected that this Manjusri Hall was specially used to "run a side business." "of. Because on one side of the Duobao Pagoda, there is a small wooden sign on the ground that guides the way. It says "Worship Manjusri Bodhisattva to open wisdom and enter here."
Looking around from the side of Duobao Pagoda, you can have a panoramic view of the lake city. It is said that if you look north on a clear day with high visibility, you can still vaguely see Taihu Lake. This is probably one of the major advantages of Dojo Mountain as the "No. 1 Dojo in Huzhou". I think the reason why Su Shi "loved" and "didn't appreciate" being in Daochang Mountain was that in addition to the benefits and wonders of the mountain temple including "the mountain atmosphere is getting better day by day", this should also be a decisive key factor (American In the article, a Huzhou netizen said, "Daochang Mountain should be the Wangxiang Mountain of Huzhou people", which is obviously related to the fact that you can overlook the entire lake city from the top of Daochang Mountain). When I went up the mountain and to the summit, the sky was clear, but after I reached the summit, there seemed to be no sun (but the sky was not covered with clouds), and I also encountered two crows (?) above my head. I shouted and flew around the Duobao Pagoda several times, which made me feel a little uncomfortable. However, generally speaking, this trip to Dojo Mountain still made my whole body and mind feel a kind of pleasure that is both replenishing and liberating. At the same time, I feel that I can go to places like Dojo Mountain again if I have the opportunity.
When I came down from the top of the mountain to Zhumating, I met two more mature men. After saying hello, I learned that they were outsiders working in Huzhou. I said to one of them, "Same, I We are also foreigners." Then they looked at each other and smiled. When searching for information about Wanshou Temple and Duobao Pagoda in Daochang Mountain, I once saw a Huzhou netizen saying with regret that most Huzhou people now go to Renhuang Mountain instead of Daochang Mountain on weekends and holidays. I thought it might still be better. That's true. I took the Winding Mountain Highway down the mountain from Wanshou Zen Temple. Only when I got to the foot of the mountain did I realize that the entrance to the Winding Mountain Highway is at Nanbang of Daochangbang Village, very close to the No. 307 bus stop.
(Supplementary from May 21 to 23, 2020)
Notes on June 18, 2020
On June 9, 2020, due to accompanying Four Hangzhou friends took a leisurely trip to Huzhou and then went to Daochang Mountain in the south of the city again (because one or two friends had difficulty climbing the ancient road, they did not reach the top to view the Duobao Pagoda, which was called Futu in ancient times). They filled in the gaps and visited the Fuhu Pavilion (the Tianwang Temple outside the temple). His Royal Highness's "Dongpo Ancient Road"), Abbot Tower, Sutra Collection Tower, Yao Xi Pool, Dongpo Inkstone Washing Pool, Sweet Spring Pavilion, stone carvings of prayers for good luck (on the northeast side outside the temple), "Lake Writing Flowers" column sculpture (on the winding mountain road outside the temple), etc. Including the scenic spots and historic sites inside and outside the Wanshou Zen Temple (there is another stone inscription on the northeast side of the temple near the stone inscription for praying for good luck, which is called the "Feng Shui Treasure Land" written by Su Shi. It is obviously not written by Su Shi and does not look like an "old thing") .
In addition, I accidentally saw the article "The Gui Army's Resistance War in Huzhou Daochang Mountain" on the Sina blog of netizen Xutang Zhiyu. The first paragraph said: On the left side of the Duobao Pagoda in Daochang Mountain, there is a world outside the world, and its Ksitigarbha The hall enshrines the tablet of "Guangxi Army Soldiers Who Died in Daochang Mountain in the Anti-Japanese War", and commemorates the 170th and 172nd divisions of the 7th Army of the 21st Group Army of the Guangxi Army who resisted the Japanese army at Daochang Mountain for more than 800 officers and soldiers. There are two couplets in front of the spiritual tablet: "The sons and daughters of China are loyal in resisting Japan, and eight hundred soldiers protect the mountain gods."
This means that the "Ksitigarbha Hall" next to the Duobao Pagoda on the top of Dochang Mountain also enshrines the tablet "Soldiers of the Guangxi Army who died at Dochang Mountain in the Anti-Japanese War". I didn't know it when I climbed to the top of Dochang Mountain alone on May 14th. In this case, I have never seen a "worldly fasting" on the top of the mountain. ——Ahem, is the so-called "Ksitigarbha Hall" the "Manjusri Hall"? If so, then I saw it, but I didn’t see the door open. At that time, I also suspected that the Manjusri Temple was specially used for "running side businesses". It was really disrespectful! This is the record.