The makeup method of thrush

Thrush is the most popular and common makeup method in China, which was produced in the Warring States Period. Qu Yuan wrote in The Songs of the South: "White and white, black and white, only for Fang Ze." "Black" means using a black thrush. In the Han dynasty, thrush became more and more common, and the more you painted, the better you looked. "Miscellanies of Xijing" wrote: "Sima Xiangru's wife, Wen Jun, has an eyebrow like a distant mountain. When she was young, she painted a distant eyebrow." This means drawing your eyebrows long, curved and green, as beautiful as a distant mountain. Later, it was developed to use jade thrush, which was also very popular in the court. In the Song Dynasty, Yan Dao Ji described in "Six Commandments": "Come to Cuimei Palace late and learn from the distant mountains skillfully." "The Story of Mizhuang Terrace" said, "Wei Wudi ordered the imperial court to draw blue eyebrows and eyebrows, which were very long and called fairy makeup." Instead, the use of black eyebrows has become a new thing in the popularity of Cui eyebrows. In China's Notes on Ancient and Modern Times, it is said that Yang Guifei "wears heavy makeup and black eyebrows". At that time, people regarded this as a new way of makeup, and called it "new makeup". No wonder Xu Ning wrote in his poem: "When the new makeup is thrown away, the six palaces fight for the black eyebrows."

In the prosperous Tang Dynasty, the popular thrush was wide and short, shaped like laurel leaves or moth wings. In Yuan Zhen's poem "Don't draw long eyebrows and short eyebrows", and Li He's poem also said that "the new laurel is like a flying moth eyebrow". In order to make the broad eyebrows not appear dull, Han women will even smudge the color of the eyebrows when drawing them, which is called "smudged eyebrows". Another is to draw the eyebrows very thin, which is called "thin eyebrows". Therefore, Bai Juyi has a sentence of "Qingdai Fine Eyebrows" in Shang Yang White-haired Man, and there is also a description of "petals like her face and willow leaves like her eyebrows" in Song of Eternal Sorrow. By the time of Xuanzong in Tang Dynasty, the forms of thrush were more colorful, including mandarin duck eyebrow, hill eyebrow, five phoenix eyebrow, three phoenix eyebrow, beaded eyebrow, moon eyebrow, split eyebrow, smoky eyebrow, puff eyebrow and inverted eyebrow. There are so many paintings on the eyebrows alone, which shows that the ancients have a strong love for beauty.

It is said that thrush began in the Warring States period. Before there were any specific thrush materials, Han women burned willow branches and painted them on their eyebrows (strange makeup, preferably modern). The materials used by ancient Han women to thrush changed with the development of the times. According to literature, the earliest thrush material is Dai, a black mineral, also known as "Shi Dai". Before painting, Shi Dai must be ground into powder on the inkstone and then mixed with water. Many Han tombs have found ink stones of the Mohist dynasty, which shows that this cosmetic has been used in the Han Dynasty. In addition to stone wear, there are bronze wear, bluebird head wear and screw wear. Copper generation is a chemical substance similar to copper rust. Green finch head is a kind of dark gray thrush material, which was introduced from the western regions in the Northern and Southern Dynasties. Spiral Dai is a thrush material for Han women in Sui and Tang Dynasties, which was produced in Persian. It is a kind of Dai block with various prescribed shapes after processing and manufacturing. When it is used, it can only be dipped in water without grinding. Because its appearance and manufacturing process are similar to those of ink ingots for painting and calligraphy, it is also called "graphite" or "thrush ink". Thrush ink was widely used in Song Dynasty, but Shi Dai was rarely used by Han women. There are also ways to make thrush ink in the notes of the Song Dynasty. For example, "The Stone Forest" said: "There is a real sesame oil lamp, which is closely rubbed with many lamp holders. Put the oil lamp in the water, light it, cover it with a small device, let the smoke condense and sweep it down. Soak musk deer in less oil three days in advance, pour it into smoke and mix well. The ink can exceed the paint. A method of rotary shearing sesame oil snuff is particularly preferred. This smoked thrush material was euphemistically called "thrush gathers fragrance" in the late Song Dynasty and early Yuan Dynasty. After the Yuan Dynasty, women in the court all chose the eyebrow stone of Zhaitang in Mentougou District, west Beijing, and so did the Ming and Qing Dynasties. By the early 1920s, with the spread of western culture, a series of changes had taken place in the cosmetics of Han women in China. Thrush materials, especially rod-shaped eyebrow pencil and chemically modulated black grease, have been used up to now because of their simple use and portability.

"Shi Jiyuan" Volume 3: "I learned that the red makeup and green eyebrows were in the Qin Shihuang Palace, and this woman was also at the beginning of eyebrows." "Songs of the South Zhao Da": "White and black, Shi Fangze." "Blue and straight, beautiful eyes." Press "Straight" and "Settings". These two poems are all about using blue and black pigments, that is, black thrush. Accordingly, it seems that thrush began in the Warring States rather than the Qin Dynasty. Han said that Zhao Da was the work of Qu Yuan in the Warring States Period. However, according to the textual research of later scholars, Zhao Da was a work forged by people in Qin and Han Dynasties. This, in turn, proves that thrush began not in the Warring States but in Qin. Since the Qin dynasty, thrush has been circulating in our society for more than two thousand years, from nobles and celebrities in the court to ordinary people.

When it comes to thrush, we should first say moth eyebrow.

The Book of Songs Feng Wei Shuo Ren: "Soft hands, firm skin, collar like a salamander, teeth like a rhinoceros, a cicada's head like a moth eyebrow ..." The poet regards the beauty of women's eyebrows as the standard of beauty of women's eyebrows. Therefore, the moth eyebrow has become synonymous with beauty: "Li Sao" said: "Many women are jealous of the moth eyebrow, which is rumored to be lewd." It has also become synonymous with beauty: Tang Gaoshi's "Xia Sai Qu" says: "Sluts fight from the army, flying moths and cicadas keep empty boudoir." It has become synonymous with women's eyebrows: Yue's "Three Gorgeous Women": "The big woman blows the jade box, the middle woman wears a curtain, and the little woman has nothing to do, painting a flying moth eyebrow in the mirror."

"Collection of Historical Documents": "People in the Han Palace sweep the indigo moth eyebrows." From the Han Dynasty to the Qin Dynasty, the times were very close, and the "indigo moth eyebrow" obviously came from Qin Gong's emerald eyebrow. Emerald, turquoise Dai, also known as "screw Dai" and "screw Dai". Shi Gu Shi Lu in the Sui Dynasty: "Wu Yixian is good at painting long moths and eyebrows, and the imperial court officials wear snails five times a day, with the name' moth green'. "Song Su Shi's Ink Collected by Professor Er Yun A": "When I heard that I got moth green, I did not hesitate to ask for otter bone marrow. "Yuan Yuji's poem" Ancient Records of Daoyuan Studies: Give Tong Shiming a Photo ":"Give a thousand snails to you, and the emerald color will sweep the autumn. "Wear from thrush is the best color for the Beggars. Li Yu's Sauvignon Blanc: "The shirt is thin and thin, and the snail is light." This remark is directed at women with eyebrows like snails and moths.

Ancient women used not only black eyebrows, but also black eyebrows. Shen Yue's "Young Wedding Poetry": "I want to express my eyebrows and express my heart." Geng Xin's "Dancing Mei Niang": "The eyebrows are thick and straight, and the forehead is light and yellow. "Liang Jianwen Emperor Xiao Gang's poem" Beauty makes up "says:" The north window is facing the mirror, and the brocade curtain is obliquely wrapped. I'm too shy to come out, but I still can't make up. When the eyebrows are wide, the fat looks raw. "Point the eyebrows is point method, and point method. "New Poems on Yutai" (Volume 8) Tan County's poem of giving a woman a gift when she meets someone (Xiao Wei, Liu Liang in the Southern Dynasties): "If you don't put on new makeup, you will still thrush." It can be seen that "point" and "painting" are two ways to thrush.

When it comes to thrush or eyebrow pointing, there is a question of who will draw or point it. The story of Zhang Chang thrush in Han Dynasty is very famous. Often quoted by newlyweds. The biography of Han Zhang Chang ... is another female thrush, and Chang 'an biography' Zhang Jingzhao is in a hurry'. There is a division to fight. When asked, he said,' I heard that in the boudoir, some people are too intrusive in the private affairs of husband and wife. Love its ability in the world and be responsible for it. "Zhang Chang's To Japan is both wise and humorous. Fortunately, the emperor loves talents, regardless of this business, otherwise thrush will also commit crimes. Yuan Shao Hengzhen's Qin Yuan Chun Mei Mei: "The brush is too thick, the lead is too shallow, and the painting is not free. "This lady is really difficult to serve. A Dai painted too little, she thought it was too thick; Fu powder is a little thin, and she exclaimed that it is too shallow. A master thrush like Zhang Chang is in a dilemma. -This is a husband beating a woman. During the Northern and Southern Dynasties, Liu Liang slowly wrote The Left and Right Wedding Poems: "A small official is as beautiful as the first day. I've heard the piano, and the peach has been parted. Moths and eyebrows participate in painting, and embroidery is smoked together ... "-this is a couple thrush." "Poems in Qin, Han, Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, Reading Quge": "When Fang Xuan was born, he knew nothing about grass, but he could hold it without drawing an eyebrow. "Wen Tingyun's" Bodhisattva Man ":"The mountains overlap and the gold disappears, and the clouds want flowers and cheeks to snow. I'm too lazy to draw flying moths' eyebrows, and I'm late for makeup and washing. "Zhu Qingyu's" The Entrance Examination to Secretary Zhang ":"After makeup, I asked you in a low voice. Is it unfashionable to thrush? " That's what thrush means. It's all about women thrusting themselves.

Thrush is also called eyebrow sweeping. Don Sikong's Snuff: "It's better to fight grass in the open, and snuff cuts eyebrows." Hu Ju Ling Tai: "Mrs. Guo is kind to the Lord and rides into the palace gate. However, it is too greasy to dye, and the moth eyebrows are supreme. " Tang Bai Juyi's poem: "A moth sweeps the eyebrows." Wen Tingyun's "Nan Gezi": "I fell into a low comb bun and swept my eyebrows." Women with literary talent are called "eyebrow-sweeping talents". Tang Hu Ceng wrote a poem for Xue Tao: "How much a person knows, it is better to manage the spring breeze." Ming Cheng Jiayi's Interview with Changmen: "What about the eyebrow-sweeping genius?" A book about the girls' school by the bridge. "

Qin Shihuang's palace was full of eyebrows, but only the color and style of eyebrows were mentioned, and there was no record. Mario's poems in the pre-Qin, Qin, Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties quoted Chang 'an dialect (see Biography of Ma Yuan in the Later Han Dynasty): "The city is so high, and the square inch is one foot high; City people's eyebrows are wide, square and half forehead; There are big sleeves in the city, and all sides are woven. " It can be seen that "wide eyebrow" is a popular eyebrow type in Han Dynasty. Du Fu's "Northern Expedition": "When moving, Zhu lead applied, and the wolf was wide." The eyebrows are wide and beautiful, which is still the case in the Tang Dynasty. The popular eyebrow styles in Han Dynasty are Zhuo Wenjun's distant eyebrow and Emperor Wu's eight-character eyebrow (see Jiyuan Incident). These two eyebrows were still imitated by women and sung by poets in the Tang Dynasty and beyond. Bai Juyi's "New Yuefu Age Makeup": "The lips are black as mud, and the eyebrows are painted low." Wei Shi's "seeing the guests off into the Tao": "Then count it in a thousand years, and the mirror will not hook." One of Li Shangyin's untitled two poems (original title "Three Butterflies", now from Feng Zhuben): "Princess Shouyang wears makeup when she marries, and her eyebrows are yellow in the eight-character palace." Sun Shou, the wife of Liang Ji in Han Dynasty, was beautiful and kind, which made her look "sad". The so-called "frown" almost comes from Zhuo Wenjun's distant eyebrows. The article "Bodhisattva Man": "Embroidered curtains hang down and Meishan is green. Cross the creek bridge with clear water and sell it by soul. " Gu? Distant resentment: "The tender red face is like a flower, and the eyebrows are far away." Wei Zhuang's Lotus Cup, one of the two songs, said, "It's hard to find a beauty, and you've betrayed your country. I can't see the future under the flowers, and I have a pair of distant eyebrows. " Song Xuyi's Preface to the Melody of Acacia: "Embroidery boxes are full of machines, and thousands of people sew them as flower protection clothes. I am afraid that flowers will fly away, and there are no fragrant branches. I hate the eyes of distant fans, so I don't need to draw distant eyebrows. I am bored, I am crying in the rain. " As for Yan's "Huanxisha": "Every day, eyebrows fight for a long time, and clouds fly, and they are frivolous and don't marry." Qiu Chi's "A Promise for a Woman": "Long eyebrows and jade face, light gauze on the wrist." The so-called Gong Great Man likes to draw long eyebrows, which is also Cui Bao's Notes on Ancient and Modern Times. Wu Yixian is good at drawing long moth eyebrows, which is also seen by poets.

As mentioned above, since the Han Dynasty, there have been more and more styles of thrush. In the era of Li Longji, the romantic son of Xuanzong in Tang Dynasty, the style of thrush in the previous generation was inherited and developed, which made thrush more colorful. Tang Zhang Mi's "Dressing Room": "Ming Di is lucky in Shu, which makes the painter ten eyebrows, and the clouds are slanting and the moon is famous." Shen's "Dan Yin Ten Eyebrows": "Emperor Tang Ming ordered the painter to draw ten eyebrows. A mandarin duck eyebrow, also known as eight-character eyebrow; Second, Xiao, also known as Yuan; Wuyue eyebrow in March; Four peaks and three eyebrows; Five, hanging beads hanging eyebrow; June eyebrow, also known as moon eyebrow; Seven eyebrows; Eight characters also smoke eyebrows, also known as smoke eyebrows; Nine, horizontal cloud eyebrow, also known as horizontal smoke eyebrow; Ten days dizzy. " Su Song's poem "Eyebrows and inkstones are songs": "Don't you see, Chengdu painters have ten eyebrows, and the clouds are fighting for new things." Qing Nalanxingde's "Qi Tianle Dresser Nostalgia" goes: "Leng Yan Jin Xiao, Moss Jade Box, Ten Eyebrows Book." Song Gu Tao's "Qing Louis Makeup Festival": "Yingjie, Pingkang prostitute also. ..... Thrush is like this every day, and Downes said in a play,' There are ten eyebrows in West Shu, but if you are obsessed with eyebrows, you will have a hundred eyebrows.' "(see Ming Dow and Zong Yi's" Said cymbals "Volume 6 1. There is no such article in the six-year-old leaf's Qingzhu Pavilion "Clearing the Remnants". ) I wonder if Sister Ying has done it? I wonder if the ten-eyebrow figure is still alive. In fact, the ten-eyebrow diagram does not include all the eyebrow shapes created by ancient women. Wei Zhuang's "The Female Crown": "Last night, in the middle of the night, I was dreaming on my pillow. After talking for a long time, it's still a peach face, and the eyebrows are low frequency. When I am young, I will turn back frequently and I am reluctant to leave. It is sad to realize that this is a dream. " One of Xu Ning's two "Songs in the Palace": "One day, the new makeup will throw away the old makeup, and the six palaces will strive to draw black eyebrows." Liang Shu: "In the prison, I put on white makeup in the palace and drew beautiful eyebrows." "Ten Eyebrows" does not include "Liu eyebrows", "black eyebrows" and "white makeup eyebrows". It is conceivable that there are more than ten or even a hundred thrush styles that have been circulating for more than two thousand years.