How to tie a knot in a climbing rope?

The most commonly used equipment when mountaineering is climbing ropes. The method of using knots to connect ropes and between ropes and other devices is called knotting technology. . A rope is lifeless, but once you give it some knots, it immediately becomes omnipotent. Knotting technology is the basic technology to ensure climbing safety. Let’s get familiar with the following techniques of knotting mountaineering ropes!

Climbing ropes

It is divided into two types: main rope and auxiliary rope. . The main rope is 60--100 meters long, with a diameter of about 10 mm, a weight requirement of about 0.08 kg per meter, and a tensile strength requirement of not less than 1800 kg. In the past, it was mostly made of jute, but recently nylon fiber has been used as raw material. There is also a main rope with a diameter of 8-9 mm, which weighs 0.06 kg per meter and has a tensile strength of not less than 1600 kg. It is used for climbing steep rock walls.

Knotting method

Drag knot.

A knot that can limit the movement of the rope in only one direction, suitable for dragging some objects that are not too heavy***, such as when climbing with a rope team; it can be used to drag your own backpack ***, especially when there’s no one to help you mop.

Italian half knot.

This knot can be used for security, especially when you have lost your security equipment or have no equipment with you. It is best not to use an Italian half knot to descend, otherwise the rope will easily get tangled. An Italian half knot + a rope loop ***runner*** + a big mouth locking shackle is equivalent to a simple sling and descender. It is the best and necessary equipment for a climber every time he climbs a mountain. Sometimes You can prepare yourself and not use it, and sometimes you can save others.

Water knot.

Hit on the main rope. Although it is also called the European knot, many climbers like to use it to connect two rappels because it does not get stuck like other knots when it is stressed. However, the water knot must be left in place after it is tied. A rope head of about 10 centimeters. Hit on the webbing. Once the water knot is tied to the webbing, it is difficult to untie it after being stressed, so it is often used on rope loops and runners that do not need to be untied.

It is called the Bollinger knot***.

Known as the king of knots, the weighing knot is often tied on a safety sling. The simple weighing knot is not practical and must be added with a single knot before it can be used. To call people's knots, you must learn the techniques of tying yourself, tying things, and closing your eyes.

Eight-character knot.

Mostly used for climbing or connecting to protection points. In rock climbing competitions, the protective rope must be directly connected to the safety belt with a figure-8 knot. It is simple and easy to learn, easy to identify right and wrong, relatively strong, and difficult to loosen. Its disadvantage is that it is not easy to loosen after strong force.

Bow tie.

The bowknot can be used in both mountaineering and outdoor activities. Its main uses are as follows: 1. To connect the climbers in the middle of the mountaineering *** glacier multi-person knot group travel ***; 2. High-altitude workers can use it to make a foot ring; 3. When the road rope needs to be pulled for temporary protection in the wild, this knot can be used as a grab handle; 4. If the rope is damaged, this knot can also be used to isolate the damaged part;

Double bar knot.

It is the most common knot with an open fixed point in the middle of the line, such as tree stumps, iron locks, etc. It is easy to untie when the load on the rope end disappears. The advantage is that after tying the knot, it is easy to adjust the length of the rope between the belayer and the belay point without having to untie it. It is widely used in mountaineering road construction and pioneer climbing.

.Flat knot.

The flat knot is easy to tie and has many uses outdoors. The earliest flat knot was also used on ships to tie objects, and later it was gradually used in climbing. However, the flat knot can only be used to tie objects and can never be used for climbing. But if you tie an anti-falling knot at the end of the flat knot, then this is a good knot called the "Flat Fisherman's Knot". It can also be used for operations such as descending, and it is easier to untie after being stressed than the Fisherman's Knot. open.

Fisherman’s knot.

1. Connect the ends of a rope to form a rope sling;

2. Connect ropes with the same diameter to rappel;

3. Connect the small rope sleeve to make a knot;

4. Connect the auxiliary rope with ***diameter>7mm*** to use as a belay station rope;

Advantages: Strength Large, sturdy and highly secure.

Disadvantages: It is difficult to untie after being stressed, especially wet, thin and soft ropes. The grab splice is almost impossible to untie after several uses.

Grab the knot.

There are many ways to tie knots, and they are also called differently. For example, Autoblock is used for braking during descent, and Klemheist is used for pulling during rescue. Knot***, there are also the Bachman Knot*** that is directly tied to the iron lock and acts as an ascender, and the Prussian knot that everyone is familiar with ***Prusik Knot***, these are collectively referred to as the Knot*** Knot. The rope used to tie the grabbing knot should be thinner and softer than the main rope, otherwise the effect will be affected. The ends of the rope need to be connected with a double fisherman's knot.

When the grab knot is stressed, it will grab the main rope, and when it is not stressed, it can move up and down on the main rope.

Uses:

1. Use it for temporary braking during the descent process to play a secondary protective role;

2. Use the grab knot to lift in the rescue system. The role of one-way force;

3. In temporary protection, it can be used instead of the ascender;

Advantages:

Easy to play, double protection; < /p>

It can protect the brake hand from being burned during long-distance or suspended descents;

Disadvantages:

It is difficult to judge the number of winding turns. It is stuck and will become ineffective if it is missing.

Rope end knot.

The rope tail knot is a knot tied at the beginning and end of the climbing rope. The purpose is to prevent the rope from suddenly coming out of the descender due to insufficient length during the descent. This knot is used when encountering bad weather or it is getting dark, there is strong wind, or you cannot see the descending ground. Of course, it can also play a good role in protecting inexperienced climbers. In recent years, the number of climbing accidents due to the rope head coming out during the descent has been increasing. Therefore, in any descent operation, especially in long-distance descent, ice climbing, and natural rock wall climbing, this knot must be attached. Imprinted in my mind as an integral part of it.

How to tie:

Similar to the Fisherman's Knot, twist a rope end back at least 4 times;

Take the rope end from the loop of the rope Thread it back in reverse and tighten;

Repeat the above steps on the other rope head;

After tying, leave at least 8 cm in length at the end of each rope head. ;

Ordinary coiled rope.

How to play:

1. Start stroking the rope from one end to the end of the rope

2. Leave 50 cm at one end for the final finishing knot

3. Collect the same length of rope each time, and keep each strand separate and independent. ***Do not collect the rope in a loop***

4. After collecting it, place it in the middle of the rope. Tie a finishing knot in the middle, twist the original rope head back to form a rope loop, use the remaining rope head to wrap more than 5 times in the direction of the rope loop, and then pull it out from the rope loop

5. Tie the two After all rope ends are tightened, single knots are tied to prevent them from falling off

The rope is coiled on the back.

When climbing in the wild, sometimes you need to walk a long way to reach it, and some routes require walking and climbing. Therefore, it is inconvenient to follow the ordinary rope coiling method every time. At this time, we usually Use the rope-coil method.

How to play:

1. Start stroking the rope from one end to the end of the rope

2. Hold both ends of the rope in your hands at the same time. Leave 3 arm lengths of rope on the ground for tying the final knot

3. Pick up the double-stranded rope and use the ordinary rope coiling method to evenly coil it on both sides of the hand

4. Pick up the reserved rope end and wrap it around the entire rope for more than 3 turns

5. After passing the rope through the middle to form a rope loop, pass the rope end through it and tighten it

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6. Put the rope behind your back, lift two rope heads with both hands, cross it over your chest, wrap it around your waist, and wrap the entire bundle of rope

7. Tie the remaining rope heads in front of your waist Ending with a smooth knot