Shaoxing nostalgia (3)
The temperature in Shaoxing dropped that day, and it was raining cold. Plus, it's still early, and there are not many people in the historical block, and many shops are still closed. Once again, in this quiet atmosphere, we listened to the ancient voices in this block.
Walking at will, I inadvertently came to Fanqiao. I believe many people have heard the legend of this bridge. The kindness and wisdom of Wang Xizhi, a book sage, has crossed such a bridge and spread for thousands of years, reaching all corners of the world.
It is also a bridge with a long history. Although the bridge we see now was rebuilt in the Qing Dynasty, at least the story of the model shows that the bridge existed as early as the Eastern Jin Dynasty. The bridge is neither big nor long, but the story of the bridge is so long. There are several awning boats moored under the bridge, and blue vines hang down from the bridge, green and ancient, adding a touch of smart color to the story of fans.
In addition to Fan Qiao, names such as Bi Fei and Tibetan girl in the block are also related to the story of Wang Xizhi's Fan. The old woman sold the fan inscribed by Wang Xizhi for a large price. A few days later, she brought the fan to Wang Xizhi. Wang Xizhi just smiled and threw the pen into an alley. People hid in an alley, and later generations changed the names of those two alleys. Later, we walked through those two alleys. The narrow alleys have the characteristics of the ancient towns in the south of the Yangtze River. Bifeilong is also the former residence of Cai Yuanpei. We didn't go to visit because of the time. However, the Shipo cake in Shipo Lane is really delicious, crisp and sweet, which makes people unforgettable!
Not far from Fanqiao, you can see a tall building with a yellow appearance. There are four characters written on the gatehouse, "Don't ring pearls and talk about temples", and the sign of Wang Xizhi's former residence is hung at the door. Don't wonder why the former residence of Wang Xizhi is a temple. Because it used to be Wang Xizhi's residence, Wang Xizhi later abandoned it as a temple, originally named Chang'an Temple, but in the Tang Dynasty it was renamed Zhu Jie Temple, which means "the precepts are as white as pearls".
The biggest difference between Zhu Jie Temple and other temples is that an official wearing a black silk scarf, royal clothes, fair face and three locks of beard sits at the head door. Two waiters are left and right, one is holding a stack of books and the other is holding a goose. This official is Wang Xizhi, general Jin Youjun, a historian of literature and history in Huiji, and a great calligrapher.
The two rooms that entered the door were exhibition halls, and many calligraphy works of Wang Xizhi were exhibited by later generations. The famous Preface to Lanting Collection also contributed. The life story of Wang Xizhi was also introduced in the exhibition hall.
Across the exhibition hall is a yard, which is not big. The innermost part is the Zhu Jie Temple Hall. It is said that the Buddha statues in the temple are resplendent. There are many couplets on the pillars in the temple, and there are "firewood leaves red leaves, leaving a blank sound"; "The lion roared like a throne, and the dragon and the tiger roared out of the rooftop"; "No birth, no extinction, no pollution, no increase or decrease, suffering from ten sides, is a famous Buddha; Those who have no self, no sentient beings and no longevity can only see the Tathagata from all aspects, all of which are taken from the Buddha's righteousness. However, we didn't have a chance to enter the hall to see their style. I don't know if there is any grand occasion in history, but it's a pity.
Because it was in the morning, the monk in yellow robe was having an early class in the temple, and the Sanskrit sounded and the Buddha incense curled up. Zhu Jie Temple is called a lecture temple, not a Zen temple, because it has always been a lecture place, with a large audience and a great reputation in the southeast. Many famous Buddhist monks also come here to give lectures. On this day, there were only two of us at the gate of the temple. Although we don't know Sanskrit, we are fortunate to feel the solemnity of Buddhism in the drizzle. There are flowers in the yard, which is particularly refreshing in this solemn place.
When we came out of Zhu Jie Temple, we found the famous Mo Chi opposite Zhu Jie Temple. At that time, the book sage Wang Xizhi was diligent in practicing calligraphy and dyed a pool of water with ink, which gave this pool such an elegant name.
We continued to walk aimlessly in the block. After passing through the brewing workshop, the rich aroma of wine came to the nose. It's a pity that it's too early to see the ancient winemaking technology. Move on with a little regret. The neighborhood deserves to be the hometown of the book saint. On the wall in the corner, there are calligraphy works everywhere, and there is a breath of culture everywhere. But we travelers who pass by in a hurry can't stop and calm our impetuous hearts, so we can only take a cursory look and pretend to be a little cultural.
Coming out of the cultural block of the scholar's hometown, we decided to make the last stop in Shaoxing at the Baziqiao. After seeing the figure-of-eight bridge, I will say goodbye to this thousand-year-old city.
Bazi Bridge belongs to the national key protection unit. It was founded in Jiatai period of Southern Song Dynasty. Known as the earliest overpass in China. From the position, the splay bridge is located in the third street, which is a central area. The stone bridge inclines in three directions and four directions, and there are two bridge opening under the second slope, which solves the complicated traffic problem. People really have to admire the wisdom of our ancestors!
There are always many green vines hanging on the bridges in Shaoxing, and the splayed bridge is no exception. It may be because the south of the Yangtze River is humid and ivy grows easily. From a distance, the green bushes and the ancient stone slab bridge are so freely mixed together, as if time has not passed, the bridge is still that bridge, people are still that group of people, the scenery is still that group of people, and they are not old.
We didn't leave anything to the ancient city, but the ancient city left us a lot of beautiful impressions. Bridges, flowing water, green vines and alleys, ancient temples, misty rain, let's say goodbye one by one! I bid farewell to an ancient city, but in my heart, I have a stronger ancient rhyme. ...