Hanfu said solar terms
The shape mainly includes "deep clothing" system (the top is connected with the lower clothing), "top and lower clothing" system (the top and lower clothing are separated) and "short clothing" system. Among them, the crown clothing under the coat is the most solemn and formal clothing for emperors and officials; Robe clothes (deep clothes) are common clothes for officials and scholars, while skirts are popular among women. Ordinary working people generally wear short clothes and pants.
Although the styles of Hanfu are various and complicated, including dresses, uniforms and special costumes, careful analysis shows that according to the overall structure, they are mainly divided into three categories.
1. The first type is the "deep coat" system, in which "coat and skirt" are connected together. Upper and lower dress system is the most typical one. Because it is connected from top to bottom, it is called a deep coat. Including straight clothes, crooked clothes, robes, straight clothes, robes, etc. It belongs to long clothes.
The most representative of deep clothes is that the top and bottom skirt are cut separately and connected at the waist; The upper and lower skirts are cut separately and then sewn together. Finally, clothes are still a style. For convenience, the clothes are sewn together, but the cutting of the upper and lower parts follows the ancient tradition.
Deep clothes can be worn by both men and women. It can not only be used as a dress, but also be worn everyday. This is a very practical dress. It is also the clothes of monarchs, officials and literati when they live in Yanju, which refers to informal occasions and belongs to casual clothes. The popularity of Shenfu is very high, which has been circulated for more than 3,000 years. From the pre-Qin period to the end of Ming Dynasty, a Shenfu system was gradually formed.
2. The second is the "deep service" system, which is divided into "up and down", including coronation and porch, which is the formal dress of the monarch's hundred officials attending grand ceremonies such as sacrifices. As the name implies, it is divided into clothes worn on it and clothes worn below. Huaxia clothing has advocated top and bottom since ancient times, stipulating that "clothes are in the right color, and the top color is in the right color", that is, the top color is pure and the bottom color is staggered.
This way is like "Heaven Xuan Dihuang", because the sky is made of light gas, so it is made of solid color, and the earth is made of heavy turbid gas, so it is made of intermediate color.
3. The third type is the "skirt" system, which mainly includes high-breasted skirts, high-waisted skirts and double-breasted skirts. In fact, it also belongs to the top and bottom skirt system. However, there are not many etiquette rules in this way, which is generally used for uniforms. Skirts are also the biggest embodiment of the upper and lower clothing system. "Comb your hair on three sides and dress in two stages" has become a description of the characteristics of traditional women's wear.
The styles of Hanfu are mainly characterized by horizontal collar (both round neck and straight collar) and right slit. It has no mouth, no lace, big sleeves are taking off their coats, and the lines are soft and smooth, elegant and smart. And what pays for it is the soul that runs through it. The cutting method of Hanfu has always been plane cutting. There are no darts and shoulder slopes, and the materials used are generally greater than the minimum need to cover the human body. Therefore, whether it is the big sleeve clothes in Qin and Han dynasties or the big sleeve shirts in Ming dynasty, the sleeves are much longer than the arms, and even if they are put on, the sleeves are very fat.
Second, Yuan Dynasty costumes
The dress system in Yuan Dynasty was similar to that in Liao, Jin and Song Dynasties. The Yuan Dynasty was ruled by Mongols, so the costumes of the Yuan Dynasty were also quite special. Mongolians often braid a small lock of hair on their foreheads, like peaches. Others braid it into two braids, and then wrap it into two big rings to hang behind their ears, wearing Dai Li hats on their heads. The clothes of people in the Yuan Dynasty were mainly "drying clothes", which were short robes, tight and narrow, with many pleats at the waist. This kind of clothes is very convenient to get on and off the horse.
Noble women in the Yuan Dynasty often wore a tall, long and eccentric hat, which was called the "crown". The robes they wear are wide and long, which makes it inconvenient to walk. They often need two maids to pull their robes behind them. Ordinary civilian women wear black robes.
Men's wear: coronation suit: the coronation suit of the emperor and the crown prince. Public service: hundreds of officials wear it when they salute. Uniform: the main clothing of the upper class in Yuan Dynasty. People in the Yuan Dynasty tied their braids and their hair. There was no complete crown service system in Yuan Dynasty. Mongolians still maintain their living customs after entering the Central Plains, but at the same time, influenced by the Han nationality, their costumes are becoming increasingly gorgeous.
The Yuan Dynasty was dominated by robes. The daily clothes of officials and scholars are mostly narrow-sleeved robes. In addition, at the grand banquet of the Yuan Dynasty, the officials of Tiandi had to wear uniform colors, which was called "quality clothes drying". According to ancient books, Tiandi's high-quality sun clothes have many styles, including winter clothes 1 1 and summer clothes 15.
Women in this period also wore robes, while Han women mainly wore skirts. Due to the influence of Mongolian customs and habits, it was popular in Yuan Dynasty for men to wear braided hair and beard hair, which was characterized by shaving two straight lines with a knife, shaving off all the hair at the back of the head, leaving braided hair on the left and right sides or spreading it casually.
Third, the flag dress in Qing Dynasty.
Qing dynasty costumes in traditional Chinese opera performances. During the reign of Kangxi, costumes of the Qing Dynasty appeared on the stage of China opera. For example, Kong's Peach Blossom Fan, its last play, Afterglow, notes in the script: "The auxiliary net clothes are disguised as soap officials." . "Time clothes" are the clothes of the Qing Dynasty. This play was first performed by Jin Dou Ban in the thirty-ninth year of Kangxi (1700).
In China's traditional drama, there are many restrictions on the use of clean clothes. During the Qianlong period, it was forbidden to perform operas that "learn from the original works and serve the court" (see Historical Materials Xunkan No.22, Jiangxi Governor Hao Shuo's Notes). During the Jiaqing period, there was also an incident in which Vice-Xian ordered the winner to win the coral crown, believing that the winner had desecrated the "famous vessels" of the imperial court (Jiao Xun drama). Therefore, there are few clean clothes reflected in the "Jianghu costumes" recorded in the Record of Yangzhou Painting Boat in the late Qianlong period and the "Dress Outline" in the Daoguang period.
A number of stories and plays of the Qing Dynasty appeared in the late Qing Dynasty, but the increase of clean clothes was still not much. In addition to the above reasons, it is also because the costumes of national dramas never pay attention to the concreteness of historical details of a certain dynasty or generation. In the past hundred years, there have been several obvious and clear clothes in traditional suitcases, namely mandarin jacket, arrow coat and weft hat, which have undergone different degrees of artistic processing.
On the stage of China traditional opera, not all the story plays in Qing Dynasty were dressed in plain clothes. For example, in "Lianhuantao", Huang Tianba wore a Ming suit-an arrow suit and a jacket, while Shi wore a square-winged gauze cap and a red python, which were basically close to the costumes of the Ming Dynasty. Even Huang Tianba's arrow suit and jacket are not completely dressed up in the Qing Dynasty, and the rich man and white master helmet he wears at the same time are not clean clothes. After a few Qing costumes entered the opera suitcase, they were not limited to only playing Qing dynasty figures.
For example, the Dressing Outline records Zhao Jun in Kunqu Opera: "The second eldest son" wrote "Dressed like a yellow coat". The "big son" here refers to the Huns in the Han Dynasty, which shows that the mandarin jacket has become one of the common costumes for ethnic minorities. Liao people are the most frequently used in Yang Jiajiang's plays. For example, Han Chang and Xiao Tianyou in the Beijing Opera Golden Beach, and (Liao Guoxu) in Shangdang Bangzi's Three Banquets all wear plain clothes, weft hats, arrows and mandarin jackets.
In addition to ethnic minorities, Han people sometimes wear some plain clothes, such as Liu Bei in Changbanpo. Just as traditional Chinese opera absorbed the straight hoe of the Song Dynasty, it was not only used in the Song Dynasty, but also absorbed the black and white hat and round neck of the Ming Dynasty, not only used in the Ming Dynasty. They all become the modeling factors of traditional Chinese opera stylized costumes.
Extended data:
Cultural connotation
Hanfu is developed from the clothes of "Huang Shun governs the world by hanging down its clothes". The ancient Six Clothes for the Emperor, Six Clothes for the Empress, Confucian Clothes and Sword Clothes are located in the center of the Hanfu system, which has been more than 4,000 years. Coronation costume is the foundation of Hanfu, which can best reflect the belief of China people that "Heaven is a Jedi", and it is also a good costume for the Han people to worship their ancestors and communicate with the world for thousands of years.
The combination of the Heavenly Emperor's Six Clothes and the Empress's Six Clothes not only symbolizes the number of days, but also represents the heaven of Gankun Tiandi, Chensan and Wuxing respectively, representing the two basic clothing systems of Hanfu-clothing system and deep clothing system respectively.
The Confucius costume in Lu Ji's surname comes from the top of Yan Ju's costume in Song Dynasty. "The crown of Zhang Fu" refers to a kind of yin crown, which was called the crown of Mao Wei or the crown of Yan Bu in the Zhou Dynasty to govern the imperial court. . Zhuangzi mentioned Confucian clothing and samurai clothing, sword clothing. Therefore, Confucian clothes became the robes of later generations. Therefore, Confucian clothing and sword clothing became the official clothing of civil and military officials in China Dynasty, and also the basic clothing of China literati and warriors.
Hanfu is a traditional national costume passed down by the Han nationality for more than 4,000 years. It is the crown service system in the Four Books and Five Classics. It is a necessary part of etiquette culture inherited from the book of songs, Shangshu, Zhou Li, Yijing, Chunqiu, Tang Kaiyuan Li and Twenty-four History. Hanfu system shows the hierarchical culture, consanguineous culture, political culture of Chinese civilization, attaching importance to posts and despising customs, valuing the long and despising the young, and Confucian benevolence and righteousness.
Under the background of ancient patriarchal clan system culture in China, clothing has the functions of displaying names, distinguishing between honor and inferiority, and distinguishing between honor and inferiority. They are auspicious gifts, intense gifts, guest gifts, military gifts and gift clothes. In addition to state etiquette, the family etiquette of ordinary Han people includes four ceremonies: crown, marriage and funeral. The Four Books and Five Classics have detailed descriptions of Hanfu dresses.
For thousands of years, the overall style of Han costumes is light and simple, paying attention to the unity of nature and man. The ancient robes of the Han nationality can best reflect this style. The main feature of this robe is that it is spacious. Big sleeves, praise belt. From the silk paintings of Han Dynasty and some figure paintings left over from Wei, Jin, Sui and Tang Dynasties, we can see a divine feature of it-a simple Chinese coat attached to people with different postures, which suddenly has a fresh vitality and soft and smooth lines.
Robe clothing fully embodies the national character of the Han nationality, which is soft, quiet, elegant, detached and calm, as well as the aesthetic taste of simplicity, naturalness, tactfulness, elegance and freshness.
Take the most typical deep clothing as an example, its shape must conform to "rules, moments, ropes and balances". *** 12 The cloth and silk used for the hem of the deep clothes means that there should be 65438+ February in a year, which embodies a strong thought of respecting the law and heaven. The sleeves are curved and conform to the rules, and the collar is a rectangle corresponding to a square, indicating that people should have rules. Without rules, there would be no Fiona Fang.
The belt hangs down to the ankle for a long time, which means integrity, and the lower part is flush with the ground, which means balance. Contains a lot of Confucianism. People will naturally pay attention to their words and deeds when they put on Hanfu. It can be seen that Hanfu contains considerable cultural connotations and is fully influenced by philosophical thoughts and ethics such as Confucianism, Taoism, Mohism and Law.
Pursuing the realm of peace and nature, detached from things, generous and kind, has shaped the style of "Hanfu", which is integrated with nature and elegant and free and easy. "Hanfu" also reflects the wearer's generosity, easygoing and tolerance.
At the same time, Hanfu is closely related to filial piety culture. For example, the Book of Rites stipulates that children's crowns and skirts should not be white when their parents are alive. If his father dies, after the funeral, there are no special taboos for other children to wear, but Di Zi still can't wear colored clothes or use colored cloth skirts. In addition, there are five kinds of mourning clothes, namely: Cuju (cuī), Cui Zi (zī cuī), Dagong, Hong Xiao and Jima.
Guzhuang photography
Clothing photography is a part of artistic photography, and it is often shot in photo studios or photography studios.
When shooting, models or consumers should change into clothes with ancient elements (before the Republic of China), dress up with relatively retro makeup and modeling, and fully explore the classical temperament of each subject through angle, light, expression, clothing, makeup and background. , so as to achieve a retro effect.
In the past wedding photography, costume photography accounted for a small proportion, more as a supplement to the main body of the wedding dress, which is one of the reasons why the majority of wedding photography consumers do not pay much attention to it. However, judging from the development trend of the current social trend, costume photography has been more and more favored by the vast number of new people, becoming the choice of wedding photos with many themes, and gradually making costume photography a new trend.
References:
Baidu Encyclopedia: Hanfu
Baidu encyclopedia: ancient costume