What is Xi 'an's city like?
This is my first time to stay in a youth hostel. It's not a busy alley door, nor a long-established academy, just beside the forest of steles, at the foot of the city wall, the Jeno Hanting. This is a quiet and gloomy youth brigade, but it is very distinctive. Later, I went to the Han and Tang Youth Hostel in the Big Wild Goose Pagoda for one night, and then I came back here. I like quiet.
I remember one night, the moon was very round and bright. I went out for a walk and walked on the deserted Beilin Street, where antique red lanterns crossed. I looked up at this round of full moon and thought, look, this is the bright moon in Qin Dynasty. Like a dream, my mood is flying and stirring.
I also met a good friend who still keeps in touch with me in youth travel. The night before departure, three girls and a boy chatted until they couldn't sleep, so they simply ran to the root of the city wall at two o'clock in the middle of the night and posed madly for photos. Foreigners passing by Yepu will whistle and say that you are so beautiful. Not far from us is a tramp sleeping under the wall. According to my uncle, in the morning, some people shouted Shaanxi opera under the city wall.
A Night in Xi 'an recorded the happiness and madness of my youth for no reason.
The city wall is an unavoidable complex. Xi 'an, you can see the city wall as soon as you get out of the railway station, which can only be described as magnificent. And that time I lived in the city wall and walked back and forth many times in the city gate. It is gray, simple and heavy, and seems to have a hidden echo. I can't believe it's been thousands of years. When I actually boarded the city wall, it was dusk to night arrival. I walked a long way on the wall alone, turn around. The wind on the wall is hunting, and the ground is Shi Zhuan thousands of years ago. Looking down, it is a long street, with music echoing and the sun setting. Lonely and happy. It is a kind of inexplicable heroism and inexplicable tragic thought.
The spectacular Terracotta Warriors, the Wild Goose Pagoda, the richness of the night music fountain museum and the unparalleled charm of the forest of steles break my heart. All these are the most beautiful Xi 'an in my eyes. It has its own composure, massiness and tolerance. Even if it is no longer the domineering of the Qin dynasty, the prosperity and quiet time of the Tang dynasty surprise me. Walking in the street, it seems that you can always smell the long-standing stories that have been floating in the air and passed down from generation to generation. The unique temperament of modern and classical interweaving can be seen everywhere, which always makes people feel trance and has an atmosphere of magical realism.
As for those scenic spots that are crowded with tourists to earn tickets, I have hardly been there. Because I think the true beauty and legend of Xi is in the streets and lanes, and also in those snacks.
Xi is a city of snacks. As a fake foodie, eating too much for the first time is dedicated to Xi 'an.
It's the first time to eat Chinese hamburger. I stayed in Xi for seven days and ate eight China buns. Although I hardly ate it all, it was too big. But I have tried the boutique, classic, pure, thin, fat, thin, Ji Qin on Woods Road or roadside stalls. In my mind, this is a magical food.
I don't know why, I have an inexplicable love for the word "Chinese hamburger", even love. Holding a hot steamed stuffed bun in my hand, it is full of meat. Thinking of the phrase "eat meat in a big bowl and drink", every bite makes me feel happy instantly. They are a natural couple, the best partner. Later, I added a rose dish with steamed buns to my favorite menu, which was also unexpectedly delicious.
Eat spicy food for the first time. Snacks should not be spicy, and it is inevitable that they will grow hot acne and sore throat. It can be said that Xi 'an is a snack resort, and the reputation of Huimin Street is far-reaching. Walking on the Hui people's street, you can't resist the temptation. Looking at those barbecued pork buns, which are almost all peppers, I was so curious that I wanted to challenge my death mentality. I tried everything. Then, eat and cry. Also! Spicy! Yes! At this time, sour plum soup is simply a savior.
Break buns for the first time. This is an art and a technical activity. Patience, skill and time. I once broke up seriously. Most importantly, I can still feel the peaceful life rhythm of Xi people from this diet. If I keep practicing, maybe I can feel what he said when I broke buns, the philosophy of life.
This is the other side of Xi 'an in my impression, a city that makes me feel happy, filled with Chili and spicy taste everywhere. Its smell always reminds me of Istanbul in Spices and Republics, and Istanbul in Pamuk's works, where there are the glory and pride of the empire in the past, the sadness of decline, and many love-hate relationships with spices and essences.
At that time, about Xi, the two places I wanted to visit most were Zhong Nanshan and Huashan. I didn't even think about going, in order to have the motivation to go next time. If the story of travel stopped when I set foot in Guangzhou, then my impression of this city may only stay in a deep memory. After all, it is not a place I am familiar with, and there are no people I am familiar with.
The terrible thing is that I fell in love with someone later. A boy from Xi. Starting with an article he wrote about Taipei. (shh, don't say ~)
This matter is still one of the top ten unsolved mysteries in my life, and may never be solved. Maybe in the end, I can only explain that this is because of my obsession with Chinese hamburger.
Later, I saw him for the first time and Xi 'an again. Xi 'an and I have an unfinished relationship, and the ups and downs of the process are bizarre for the time being. Thanks to advanced technology and convenient transportation, I traveled more than 2000 kilometers in just eight hours. From the cold and wet south to the north, I didn't think the world was incredible until I saw the snow covering the land and the roof all the way. As soon as I get off the train, the temperature in Xi 'an always reminds me that this is the north. This is the real winter.
It seems to be to greet me or confuse me, neither too early nor too late. On the day of arrival, it snowed in Xi 'an. It turns out that snowflakes have delicate shapes no matter how small they are. It turned out that the snow fell sideways, and there was really a squeaking sound when stepping on the snow. The snow that falls on my shoulders and hair at night, the snow that dances under the dim light, and the snow that accumulates on trees, drum towers, bell towers and those buildings that fly over the walls in the morning, they complement each other like that and shine in my memory. The street is covered with a layer of white. Pedestrians walked past me with their hands in their coats and their heads down. There are steaming steamed buns and soup in the breakfast shop, and there are long queues.
This is the most beautiful Xi in my eyes, and winter.
During my six days there, I walked hand in hand across the street and got on the subway. I saw its bustling and crowded, tasted its spicy and warm, and breathed the ubiquitous smog, although I didn't feel anything. I think this city has brought me more than an outdated glimpse. And I also found that no matter which city, the reason that really makes you fall in love must be because of someone and something there.
Xi is more than 2,000 kilometers away from Guangzhou, so far that all thoughts and languages look pale and powerless, so far that maybe I will never be bound by it again. It is so different from the place where I live, but it also makes me like it. I know that Xi 'an will eventually become a lingering thought and feeling in my life.
Because this is the land he loves, and I love it too. I love Starbucks, which is open 24 hours a day, the noisy Huimin Street at night, the accumulated snow on the wall of the city, the quiet night and lights in Qujiang Park, and the solemnity of Aixing Mountain Temple. By the way, I also fell in love with taxis with a starting price of only six yuan.
In the end, I can't tell whether it is because a city fell in love with that person or because that person fell in love with a city.