The baby's open lips
In the Tang Dynasty, women's hairstyles were diverse, and their makeup was complicated and delicate. Makeup hairstyle also shows the heyday of cultural development in Tang Dynasty. In the Tang Dynasty, women's makeup was gorgeous, mainly manifested in makeup: flowers, rouge, goose yellow, noodles and so on. Hair accessories in the Tang Dynasty fully reflect the aesthetic development of the prosperous characteristics of the Tang Dynasty, and also reveal the open and confident attitude of the Tang Dynasty and the learning spirit of accepting foreign cultures.
Most women in the Sui Dynasty had flat hair styles, which were characterized by overlapping hair layers and hat-shaped as a whole. Most of the hair styles in this period were simple and diverse, and the culture of the early Tang Dynasty was deeply influenced by the Sui Dynasty, so the hair styles of female figurines in the early Tang Dynasty reflected such distinctive and prominent characteristics of the times. The flat-headed hairstyle also represents the society that is developing steadily in the Tang Dynasty.
At this time, the hairstyle of the Tang Dynasty was greatly influenced by the Sui Dynasty. In the early Tang Dynasty, women's hair styles still followed the Sui Dynasty style, and they were mostly combed into a bun. Judging from the discovery of the Tang tombs in recent years, there has also been a style of semi-turning bun, which evolved from the turning bun in the Sui Dynasty. In addition, according to the Yuwen-style Dressing Table, "When Tang Wude was in the Tang Dynasty, the palace combed the bun for half a turn, combed it backwards and enjoyed it."
It can be seen that there were few types of palace hairstyles at that time, and on the whole, the hairstyles of women in the early Tang Dynasty were extremely simple, not to mention some luxurious jewelry such as pearls and jade. However, in the early Tang Dynasty, women with high status stopped combing clouds. There is a proverb in Chang 'an in the Book of the Later Han Dynasty: "The steamed stuffed bun in the city is one foot high." It shows that women's hairstyles are no longer simple and single, but have developed into simple and towering distinctive hairstyles, and then gradually appeared and became popular with other more complicated hairstyles.
The makeup in the early Tang dynasty also began to become complex and diverse. After the Sui Dynasty, it gradually developed into white flour, blush, vermilion lips and other decorations, as well as flowers, noodles, oblique red and so on. At the end of Sui Dynasty and the beginning of Tang Dynasty, "white makeup" was popular, that is, only make-up was applied, not enough rouge.
With the blending and development of culture and the change and progress of society in the Tang Dynasty, women's pursuit of beauty became stronger and stronger in the prosperous Tang Dynasty. First of all, the bun and makeup have changed greatly. It is recorded in the Book of the Old Tang Dynasty: "The customs are extravagant and unruly, but splendid and perfect." "Up to the palace, down to the horse, go hand in hand, no distinction." All these show that women in the Tang Dynasty boldly pursued various fashions and gorgeous characteristics.
In the prosperous Tang dynasty, the makeup style was gorgeous, mostly decorated with red makeup, and the style was complicated. The most colorful one is called Drunk Makeup. Those with lighter colors and lighter makeup are called "peach blossom makeup"; More elegant is called "Fei Xia Makeup".
In the heyday of the Tang Dynasty, women's makeup was more complicated, with many steps and indispensable. What are the makeup steps of women in the prosperous Tang Dynasty?
The first step is to apply lead powder, which is what we now call "priming". In the heyday of the Tang Dynasty, women's makeup was very thick and extremely white, and a lot of lead powder was needed. Lead powder actually appeared in the Xia and Shang Dynasties in China. The effect of lead powder is equivalent to the effect of concealer and BB cream, which can cover the slight defects of the skin and make the face whiter, smoother and free of impurities. Lead powder has many benefits. Even Li Yu, a dramatist in the Qing Dynasty, thinks that after applying lead powder, "the more you apply it, the better it looks." However, lead powder is a heavy metal, which will make the skin blue or even toxic if used for a long time. The book Wu Kai in the Heavenly Palace in the Ming Dynasty recorded that "slapping a woman's cheek makes her natural color blue", which shows that lead powder is useless.
The second step is to apply rouge, which is the most commonly used cosmetics for ancient women, also known as "E Shi" and "cigarette", which is equivalent to blush, lipstick and lipstick. Rouge must be painted red, and mouth must be painted bright red to be charming and lovely. At this time, the woman painted rouge very thick. Wang Jian, a poet in the Tang Dynasty, wrote in Gong Ci that women washed away a lot of red mud when washing their faces, which shows the prevalence of women's "red makeup" and heavy rouge in the Tang Dynasty.
The third step is thrush, that is, eyebrow stroke. Generally, there are Liu Yemei and hanging eyebrow. Eyebrows are mainly blue or black, which makes them more charming and affectionate. In the prosperous Tang Dynasty, wide eyebrows prevailed, and the eyebrows were short and thick, showing a figure of eight. Fine eyebrows are also very popular. This painting method is to draw the eyebrows long and thin, so that the face and eyes are more feminine after painting. Bai Juyi also wrote in Song of Eternal Sorrow: "Petals are like her face, willow leaves are like her eyebrows", which shows that slender eyebrows like willow leaves are also women's favorite makeup. At this time, all kinds of eyebrow shapes recorded are roughly as follows: Yuanyang eyebrow, Shanmei eyebrow, Pentagon eyebrow, inverted eyebrow, smoke-blowing eyebrow, smoke-containing eyebrow, pointed eyebrow, moon eyebrow, beaded eyebrow and three-peak eyebrow.
The fourth step is applique, also called face flower applique. But the bud is not painted, but made of gold foil, paper, fish scales and even dragonfly wings. According to Gao Cheng's "Jiyuan Things", "In the distant time, women liked to make powder ytterbium, such as the shape of the moon and money, or those who used Zhu Ruoyan as a fat spot, the Tang people still made it."
It shows that applique cymbals have appeared since the Three Kingdoms period, but it was not until the Tang Dynasty that applique cymbals became popular among women. Moreover, in the Tang Dynasty, there were many colors of flower buds, and red was the most common. There are many kinds of flower buds, such as plum blossom, moon and pomegranate flower, birds, insects and fish. The location of the paste is roughly between the eyebrows or cheeks, and the color is mainly red and yellow, but red is still the most charming and affectionate, so in modern TV dramas, women can often be seen pasting beautiful red flowers.
The fifth step is painting roller, also called "makeup roller". Unlike flower rollers, they can be painted and pasted, and most of them are decorated in dimples on cheeks, such as beans, stars and crescent moons. The color is mostly scarlet, but also black and yellow, also known as "makeup enamel".
There is a record about noodles in Liu Xun's "Different Records of Ridges" in the Tang Dynasty: "Crane grass crawls. Its flowers are dusty and lavender in color, and its pedicel leaves are as short as willows. When it blooms in summer, it is also called green leaf flower. Nanrenyun is a beautiful grass, and it is dry to replace the face. "
Before the prosperous Tang Dynasty, dough sculptures were mostly soybean-shaped, similar in size and simple in modeling style. With the constant change of people's aesthetics, coins, apricot stones, various flower shapes and later bird and beast patterns also appeared in the prosperous Tang Dynasty. When a woman smiles, her face looks particularly beautiful, which makes her more sought after and respected.
Step six, draw oblique red. At first, oblique red was red makeup painted on temples, but in the Tang Dynasty, women painted oblique red on their faces, like crescent moon and red scar, which had a delicate and morbid beauty.
The origin of this makeup is recorded in Zhang Mi's Story of the Makeup Building: "When I first entered the Night Guard Palace, I was blocked by a seven-foot crystal screen, but I didn't feel the wound on the touch screen like Xiao Xia." Xue, the imperial secretary, accidentally bumped into the screen at night and his cheeks were red. When Wei Wendi saw it, she felt sorry for herself. Later, imperial secretaries scrambled to imitate paintings with rouge, which was called "Xiao Xia makeup".
This makeup has been passed down to this day. In the prosperous Tang Dynasty, due to the vigorous development of society, the society was relatively stable, the policy was enlightened, and there were fewer restrictions on women. With the improvement of people's living standards, women's desire for beauty has become more intense, and various makeup has emerged in an endless stream, and oblique red has gradually become popular.
Step 7: Draw lip fat. In ancient times, lipstick, lipstick and other red rouge coated on the lips were called "lip fat" and "lip fat". But lipstick is not rouge. Rouge is a general term for red cosmetics that can be applied to the face or lips. Mouth fat has been called since the Sui and Tang Dynasties. It adds bovine marrow and tallow to the original rouge to make the upper lip shiny, so rouge not only refers to oral fat. The bright color of mouth fat can change the color of lips, add more beauty, make the face whiter and brighter, have a good complexion, and highlight the lip shape, giving people a healthy, young, lively and beautiful feeling.
Oral fat is extremely important for ancient women and occupies a very high position in women's hearts, so makeup is essential. "Point lips" is the main drawing method of oral fat, which is different from modern painting. At that time, oral fat had not been completely applied to the lips, but the less it was applied, the better. Petite and colorful are its main characteristics, and it is best to be as small and red as a cherry mouth. "Little Peach Blossoms on the Lips" is the woman's red lips described by Cen Can in Drunk Bucket Beauty.
With the development of society, women's bun in the Tang Dynasty has more characteristics of the times and has become diverse.
The main hairstyles of women in the early Tang Dynasty are: semi-turn bun, anti-wan bun and leyou bun. At this time, the Tang Dynasty was in a state of rising and the cultural development was slow. Women's hairstyles are relatively simple and the styles are relatively simple.
During the prosperous Tang Dynasty, women's hairstyles became various. The most common ones are Jinghong steamed stuffed bun, Shuanghuan Wang Xian steamed stuffed bun, Tian Fei steamed stuffed bun, Chaotian steamed stuffed bun and hanging steamed stuffed bun. The most popular bun is the Japanese pendant bun, which combs the hair on the temple to the back of the head, then sweeps it up, pulls it into one or two bun, and then leans against the forehead. This kind of bun was mostly used by female figurines in the prosperous Tang Dynasty.
High bun was very popular in the Tang Dynasty, but it was impossible for a person to comb his own hair to this height. Therefore, wigs became popular in the prosperous Tang Dynasty, and wooden fake crowns and hair pads were put in his hair to cushion the high bun, which was then called "positive bun". Women wear beaded jewelry on the bun and connect it with their hair to form various high buns.
A tall bun needs more beaded flowers to decorate, and the flowers are light and beautiful. At this time, women especially like to decorate with flowers, and the Tang people like peony very much. Therefore, in the Tang Dynasty, the women in your family put peony flowers in the bun, which looked noble and rich. In addition to peony, Zanhua was also very popular in the Tang Dynasty, such as small white jasmine. Black hair and white flowers are more in contrast, decorated with small flowers has a light and natural beauty, while the fragrance of jasmine adds elegance and femininity to the sideburns.
The rule of Zhenguan, the prosperity of Kaiyuan, made the Tang Dynasty an extremely prosperous dynasty. Emperor Taizong was worshipped by all ethnic groups and came from all directions to congratulate him. Chang 'an is a world metropolis and the center of economic and cultural exchanges among countries. Economic development has also promoted cultural prosperity. During the prosperous Tang Dynasty, women's hairstyles and makeup were varied, dignified and noble, which also profoundly reflected the prosperity and strength of the country. Most of the luxurious beaded hairpins on women's heads are gold, silver or beaded jade, which is extremely exquisite.
Emperor Taizong, known as Tiankhan, attracted all countries to worship, not only because of the powerful national power of the Tang Dynasty, but also because of its enlightened foreign policy and equal treatment policy. At this time, the Tang Dynasty was also a big international trading country, and there were often messengers or businessmen from foreign countries or other tribes coming to the DPRK for cultural exchanges or commodity trade. At this time, cultural exchanges between tribes and countries are also very frequent, and the makeup hairstyles of women in the prosperous Tang Dynasty are also influenced by foreign cultures, forming Uighur hairstyles, Wuman hairstyles, and hair-throwing hairstyles, which are typical Hu people's hairstyles.
If there are years of war and smoke everywhere, people will not deliberately pursue any aesthetic feeling, and naturally they are busy running for their lives every day. In the prosperous Tang Dynasty, women not only pursued the beauty of various hairstyles, but also spent a lot of money on rouge powder, thick powder and a high bun, which was enough to reflect the prosperity and stability in the prosperous Tang Dynasty, while women's hair bun was dignified and mature, and their makeup was rich and beautiful.
From the middle and late Tang Dynasty to the end of Tang Dynasty, the national economic strength gradually declined. After the Anshi Rebellion, the Tang Dynasty turned from prosperity to decline. In his later years, Xuanzong ignored political affairs and indulged in debauchery, which led to the stagnation of national development, deepening contradictions among all social strata, decadent rule, sharp decline in national strength, and war and poverty.
At this time, the main styles of women's bun are Cong bun, Ma bun, Gao bun in late Tang Dynasty and cosmetic bun. It becomes more complicated and takes several hours to dress up. The bun is decorated with all kinds of jewelry, which is gorgeous and luxurious. Zhu Yu is so heavy that these women even need someone to help them walk. They look lazy and tired. However, this is not a sign that the Tang Dynasty was still prosperous, but a sign that too many luxuries and gold were wasted.
A makeup hairstyle seems to be only the expression of women's pursuit of beauty and love for beauty, but it is also the cultural development history of a dynasty and a country, the development of an era and the progress of culture. The makeup and hairstyles of women in the Tang Dynasty are changing, and the society in the Tang Dynasty is also developing and progressing.
The development of culture is also inseparable from the support of economy, which is the basic factor to measure a country's prosperity. What kind of social background can breed what kind of culture.
The makeup and hairstyles of women in the Tang Dynasty are complicated, gorgeous and noble, which is not only the expression of their pursuit of beauty, but also a symbol of the prosperity and development of an era.
The change of women's hairstyle and makeup is not only the change of women's aesthetics and popular culture in the Tang Dynasty, but also an allusion to the development of the country. From the changes and development of women's makeup hairstyles in the Tang Dynasty, we can also see the development and decline of society in the Tang Dynasty, which not only reflects the changes of culture, but also reflects the development and decline of economy, national strength, policy, military affairs, diplomacy and other fields. Moreover, the cultural changes of this dynasty, such as advocating Confucianism, Buddhism and Taoism, building schools, establishing imperial examinations, and advocating cosmetic changes, can reflect the development of this dynasty.
References:
1 "A Preliminary Study of Female Makeup in Tang Dynasty" Li Cuihua
2. A Preliminary Study on the Beauty of Women's Costume Makeup in Tang Poetry by Zhang Ying
3. On Women's Facial Makeup and Hairstyle in the Tang Dynasty Fan Qiang