The latest traffic situation in Nujiang Prefecture, Yunnan Province
This pleasant and smooth trip benefited from the selfless strategies of many netizens before. Love is round, so I wrote down a bunch of useful information when I went, and I wrote the latest detailed strategy the first thing I did when I came back, hoping to help my friends who were going.
DAY 1: Kunming-Liuku (see bathhouse)-Fugong
2013 February 10, starting from Kunming at 7: 00 in the morning, walking on Kunming-Chu Expressway, Chuda Expressway and Dabao Expressway, perhaps because of the early departure and the New Year's Day, the cars on the road are rarely particularly smooth. On Dabao Road, after crossing Huanglian Tree, everyone should take the Lancang River exit, first go to Wayao Town, then cross Caojian Town along S228 National Road, turn to S230, cross Shangjiang Town and reach Liuku. It sounds a bit complicated, but in fact, the road sign is very clear, so it can be said that it is straight along the road. I would like to remind children's shoes that in the past, going to Liuku had to go through the old nest, but now that a new road has been built, we can't get through it.
It was 2 pm when we arrived at Liuku, and we had lunch at Baoshan Hotel, which we visited three years ago. It serves old-fashioned ham, which tastes very good. Unexpectedly, it has been open. The specific address is under Nujiang Bridge (but Nujiang Bridge) and turn left by the river for about 300. The signboard is red, and there is a high stone step before entering the store.
After dinner, cross the Nujiang Bridge and walk along the road to Fugong (the road sign is clear, you can ask the local villagers if you don't see it). It takes about 30 minutes to get to the famous bathhouse party. Bathhouse party is a traditional custom of Lisu people. Every year, Lisu villagers gather here from afar to wash off their dirt and carry out various activities, such as going up the mountain, singing songs after the song, shooting crossbows and so on. Since I have been here several times before, this time Bingzhongluo is the focus of our trip, so the time is scheduled to arrive on the first day of the first month, and many games have not yet started. I have just visited various tents set up by fellow villagers for bathing. Children's shoes that want to come to the bathhouse should pay attention to the activity time. According to experience, there will be many activities on the morning of the second day of the first month, but it is also the most crowded time. The car couldn't get in at all, so I had to park on the far side of the road and walk on my legs for a long time, but it was still worth it. You can see the real climbing knife mountain. This kind of knife mountain is genuine. I tested it myself, and the blade is very sharp. There is also the after-song contest, unlike the beauty contest in the city. It doesn't care about age or appearance, and it depends entirely on singing. Sitting on the floor with fellow villagers, listening to one good song after another will make you feel very happy. Here, children's shoes can also buy crossbows. The darker the color, the more precious the crossbow is. The price we bought four years ago was 200, but now I'm afraid it will cost 4 or 500.
After watching the bathhouse, it was already 5 pm. Everyone unanimously said that they were not hungry and didn't want to turn around and go back to Liuku, so we went straight ahead. Later, it proved that our decision was very wise. After several big towns such as Gan Wei, Robben Zhuo, Pihe and Zilijia, we arrived at Fugong County at 8 o'clock. It was already dark, so we didn't go into the county seat, but lived on the edge of the county seat. I found a hotel called Hongfu Hotel, with clean rooms and hot water all day. I can make free phone calls and surf the Internet. The price is not invoiced. It's a standard room of 60 yuan, which is good and cheap. I recommend it to everyone. The telephone number is 0886-34 14889, 18608865252. Next to the hotel is a hot pot restaurant with donkey meat. The farther north it gets, the colder it gets. Eating donkey meat is a good choice. When the hot pot was served, the fragrance was overflowing, the soup was milky white and delicious. We wolfed it down at once. Four people ate 2 Jin of donkey meat (all here are market Jin) and 3 or 4 side dishes, and the price was about *** 170. At the fork in the road on the left, there is a small restaurant not far from your hotel, where you can have breakfast.
The colorful tent in the picture is where the bathhouse is located.
The next day: Fugong-Gongshan-Bingzhongluo
Starting from Fugong at 7: 30 in the morning, I feel that the road is getting harder and harder. There are many sharp bends, so I can't see the opposite side clearly, and the line of sight is very bad. So I want to emphasize here that netizens have also emphasized before that you must slow down and whistle when entering the corner, and you must not occupy the road. Local cars are doing very well in this respect, Kunming and Guangdong cars rely on drivers, and Sichuan cars are generally doing very poorly (this is purely an objective evaluation). Safety is the most important thing to come out and play. I hope children's shoes can abide by the local traffic order. Here is a little experience. If you find a local car to follow him, it will be much easier to drive. Most local cars are bread and pickup trucks, and the license plate starts with cloud Q.
Arrive at Shiyue at 8: 30. The Stone Moon has a touching love story and a special observation deck, which is convenient for parking. After watching Shiyue, you will pass Maji and Puladi and arrive at Gongshan (it is recommended to refuel in Fugong and Gongshan, where there are standard Sinopec gas stations and some can use oil cards). We will pass some scenic spots along the way. As long as you see the observation deck and the parking lot, you can get off and watch.
It is only over 40 kilometers from Gongshan to Bingzhongluo Township, but it takes 1 hour to walk. There is a checkpoint in front of Bingzhongluo Township. Everyone needs to buy a ticket for 100, which can be cheaper in the off-season. Old-age card and teacher's card can be exempted from half a ticket. Not far from the checkpoint is the first bay of Nujiang River, where the blue-green river forms a bay, and there are several families on the other side of the bay, which really has a picturesque feeling.
The above is the route seen in the first bay. You can plan according to this.
Not far from the first bay, it used to be Peach Blossom Island. The scenery is similar to the first bay, except for a suspension bridge. Peach trees are planted on the other side of the bay. It is said that when peach blossoms are in full bloom, pink peach blossoms set off the blue-green river, just like a fairyland.
The green trees on the island are all peach trees.
You can see the snow-capped mountains on the observation deck of Taohua Island.
After crossing Peach Blossom Island, we arrived at Bingzhongluo Township. The main street in the county seat is one. We had lunch at Sanjiangyuan, the largest restaurant in the area. The yard is wide and can park many cars. In the yard, we can see the peaks of Gawa Gapu Snow Mountain. We ordered some local specialties, such as braised pork, braised chicken and fried flowers. , price * * *1above 40 yuan. At that time, the price was ok, but after many tourists came the next day, the price of this restaurant was outrageous. Before the food was served, we inquired about several hotels, all asking for more than 300 standard rooms, so we immediately booked the famous Aunt Ding's home (their home was 200 rooms with four beds, and I was secretly pleased at that time, which later proved to be the most unsuccessful place in our trip).
You can also see the snow-capped mountains in the courtyard of Sanjiangyuan.
It's past 2 pm after dinner, so we turned around and visited Peach Blossom Island (I missed it before, haha). Then return to the county seat, enter from the fork marked "Shimenguan" on the main street, then go to Chongding Village, stop by Aunt Ding's house to reconfirm the accommodation, and then go ahead to Shimenguan. The mountains on both sides of Shimenguan stand upright, naturally forming two towering stone gates. Unfortunately, my camera is not good enough to get a panoramic view.
After watching Shimenguan, it's only 4 o'clock. Everyone agrees that they are full and don't have to worry about eating. So we turned back and went back to the main street of the village. We went straight inside, and we arrived at the site of Shambhala Palace (also called Puhua Temple), a tourist attraction on the western front. Puhua Temple is a Lama Temple. In Dongfeng village, there was also a Christian church, but it was not open at that time. You can see the scenery of Gawa Gapu Snow Mountain in Puhua Temple. The sky is blue, as if it had been washed. There is no commercial atmosphere in the temple. It's peaceful, but it's certainly not big. Everyone knelt down devoutly and made their own New Year's wishes.
Back in Bingzhongluo Township, I came across a "Dele Inn" and went up to inquire. It won't open until February 8, and the standard room is only 100, but since it has been agreed with Aunt Ding's house, I will write down the phone number for later use. I talked to my boss about the place to eat, and she recommended the "Three Rivers Source" and the farmhouse music in Ding Cun. We chose to go to Ding Cun and went to see the church in Ding Cun first. This is a Catholic church. Father Ren Anshou of France came here on 1898 and died here on 1937. Every Sunday in the church, the choir is called a singing angel by many netizens. Unfortunately, we didn't hear it at the right time. When I was looking for food, I found that the farmhouse only accepted tourists living in their home. Finally, I had to eat some fried bait at Aunt Ding's house and fell asleep. Aunt Ding's house? -What can I say? Maybe the business is done, and there is no sense of simplicity. Very sweet. Everything is settled immediately or in advance, and there is no service. The toilet is far away. In the middle of the night, there is no light in the whole yard. I can't leave without a flashlight. I have four or five dogs, and they bark around me, and I almost cry, and their homes are left unattended. In a word-dogs are cold! I will never live there again. Booking breakfast for the next day, Aunt Ding said it was too early to get up at 7: 30. . . ⊙⊙·b· Khan, in the end, we can only eat cake with us.
Day 3: Heavy Ding Cun-Four Seasons Barrel-wuli village-Autumn Barrel.
Depart around 8: 00, pass by Shimenguan, the first day of play, and walk 3 kilometers to Sijitong. A little further on the Four Seasons Barrel is wuli village (Bingzhongluo Township, Chongding Village, Four Seasons Barrel and Qiuna Barrel are 5 kilometers apart, making it more and more difficult to get out of Chongding Village). Wuli village's real name is wuli village. On the other side of the Nujiang River, there are only dozens of families. Green wheat grows in front of the house. In the morning, it is often surrounded by mist. The other side looks like a fairyland on earth, too beautiful to be true. It is also called the Swiss of China. After taking photos on the other side, drive a little further, and you will see two bridges, a newly-built steel bridge and an abandoned old wooden bridge. There is a parking lot after crossing the bridge, and there is an ancient tea-horse road on the right, which is about 1.5 km long. You can walk into wuli village in half an hour. This village is full of unique wooden houses with stone roofs. Now there is electricity in the village, and I have seen the washing machine, hehe, but the scenery in the village is still the original pastoral scenery, not as beautiful as the one seen opposite.
In wuli village this morning, it was taken on the other side.
I was in wuli village in the afternoon, and I took pictures when I came back.
I have finished the ancient tea-horse road and come to the other side of the river.
The scenery of wuli village
It is only 3 or 4 kilometers from wuli village to Qiu Nabang, which is not really Qiu Nabang village. Because breakfast is only a little, it's only 10: 30, and everyone starts to get hungry. So we found a farmhouse for lunch. The owner of the farmhouse, surnamed He, is a Bai nationality and became the son-in-law of the Nu nationality in Qiutong. The family is very hospitable and simple, which is in sharp contrast with Aunt Ding's family. The teacher took us to catch native chickens and pull vegetables in vegetable fields. When cooking chicken, the teacher specially asked us if we were allergic to lacquer oil. Paint oil tastes better when boiled, but our friends who went with us were not in good health, so we didn't try it. If children's shoes are ok, you must try them. Please let me know when you come back. When the teacher cooks, some of us bask in the sun in the yard, and some stay warm around the fire, which is very, very comfortable. The teacher's yard is clean and tidy, and there are no dogs. I visited the accommodation room, which was very clean. The sheets are as white as those in the standard room. The toilet is upstairs, and there are two showers downstairs, which is also cheap. When the teacher asked us to eat, I lifted the lid and the strong smell made my mouth water. I quickly filled a bowl and the first bite melted me instantly. How can there be such delicious chicken soup? This fragrant and slippery feeling gradually permeated the whole mouth, and I almost wanted to cry. I am looking for real food between people (at this time, I feel very poor and can't accurately describe my feelings at that time. This is what I have drunk so far. . . . I swallowed again (* _ _ *) hee hee). Every dish was delicious, especially sweet, and the teacher gave us a bowl of stewed sparerib with bamboo shoots (hee hee, we found it when we made a fire around the ground, so I had the cheek to ask the teacher what it was and whether it was delicious or not. . . Sweat). Later, I summarized why the chicken soup here is so delicious. First, chickens are pure native chickens and run outside every day. Second, the water used is the sweet spring water on the mountain. Third, cook with fire (popular science: fire is a fire pit on the kitchen floor of a fellow villager's house, which is rare in rural areas now. Only deep mountains and forests have it. The pot is cooked on a fire pit, and its appearance is dark. The three are the right time, the right place and the right people. The contact number with the teacher's home is now available: 18724828873. Please carefully record the children's shoes.
Go straight ahead after eating, and the road is getting harder and harder. For a while, you can see that the snow-capped mountains in Gaoligong Mountain are very close. After walking for about 20 minutes, I passed two cement bridges and came to a fork in the road with two roads. There is a cement road on the right hand side, with a steep slope, leading to Qiunatong Village. The marble road on the left leads to Cachalo Grand Canyon, which leads directly to Tibetan areas. It is ***23 kilometers. We tried to drive for a while, and the road was very bad. Generally, if the car can't get in, it rubs against the chassis, so we have to turn back to the cement bridge, stop there and walk in. At noon, the Nujiang River is very hot. I'm already wearing short sleeves, and I still feel hot. The further you go to Cachalo Canyon, the steeper the mountain is, and the Nujiang River is at the foot of the mountain. We have been away for 1 many hours, and there are too many friends in the same industry for us. We turned back and took another cement road to Qiunatong Village. Qiunatong village is a Nu village, with only over 40 families isolated from the world. The houses in the village are also stone-topped wooden bodies, and all kinds of bacon are hung on the beams. The most beautiful building in the village is the Catholic church, and there is also a place to eat in the village. I went to see it, and it felt good.
Snow-capped mountains in Gaoligong Mountains.
Qiu Na Tong village
A wooden house hung with all kinds of bacon.
It was 4 pm when we came out of Qiu Natong village. We have already booked a room at Dele Inn, and then turned back to Bingzhongluo Township to open a room. When I came to the village, I found that the tourists suddenly improved a lot, which was 2 or 3 times that of the first day. The owner of Dele Inn raised the price, which was 100 at the time of reservation, and rose to 150 at the time of actual check-in, but it was still very affordable compared with the price of around 380. The telephone number of Dele Inn is 18908869655.
The main street of Bingzhongluo Township.
It's still early after opening the room. We plan to go to the beach opposite Taohua Island. We drove to the observation deck of Taohua Island and found that we were wrong. If we can't get there, we'll still have to walk to Shimenguan. When we came to a place that said "XX tractor driving training school", we turned right, walked along the cement road and parked our car on the playground of the tractor training school. Of course, we must first get the consent of the villagers there. The villagers are very simple. When they knew where we were going, they took us to cut corners, climbed over the barbed wire and watched us leave. Although their Chinese is not very good, they can only understand some simple words, but this does not affect their hospitality. Walk along the only dirt road (the road is steep and there are old people and children to take care of), and you will reach a vast beach opposite Taohua Island in about 15 minutes.
The beach of Nujiang River is white from a distance, but it is more like the color of volcanic ash when approaching, and there are many shiny minerals in it. We took off our shoes and the beach was very soft and delicate. There are no pebbles and the afterheat of the sun, which is very comfortable. We rolled around on the beach to take pictures and had a good time. I also tried to put my feet into the crystal clear river, and the water temperature was freezing. It is said that the water in Nujiang River is melted by the snow on the snowy mountain this season, so it is very pure and cold.
The back of the landlord and her patron saint, hehe, feels disgusting.
After playing 1 on the beach for many hours, we returned to Bingzhongluo Township and went to the "Three Rivers Source" where we had eaten before. We found the price ridiculously high. Frozen Nujiang fish 180 a catty, yak 180 a plate, there are many people, at least wait 1 hour. So we changed places and found a restaurant called "Nujiang First Bay Hotel", which was opened by a Baoshan couple. We ordered three meat dishes and two vegetarian dishes, which were very rich and delicious, especially Chinese cabbage, which was very sweet. After dinner, I found that the fireworks stand was closed, so I had to go back to Dele Inn. The inn is newly opened, the room is not big, but it is clean, the sheets are all new and white, and I want to sleep. The fly in the ointment is that hot water is solar energy, which is in short supply when there are many people. You should take a bath in advance.
Day 4: Bingzhongluo-Fugong-Ghost Town Zhiziluo-Liuku
Go to Nujiang First Bay Hotel for breakfast in the morning. The four left Bingzhongluo for leisure at 8: 30. After a short walk, there is a place to go. Let's go down to play and slip away. It's very cheap to do zipper here. The Lisu young man who greets guests for 20 yuan is very handsome, a bit like Peter Ho, with wheat skin and good figure. . . Hehe, I just don't have insurance. The zip line at the bathhouse meeting rose to 50 yuan this year. It is said that there is insurance. But all the children's shoes that have slipped know that it is safe to slip when it looks dangerous, so I don't think there is any need for insurance.
Go straight ahead after sliding the rope, and you can see Robbie Snow Mountain all the way (you can't see it because you are behind the car on the road). When I arrived in Fugong at 2 pm, I found a small restaurant in the county and had breakfast there when I came. It's delicious, especially cold dishes (fried crispy meat and green bamboo shoots). After eating, I was on my way. After crossing Li Zijia, I arrived at Pi River. There is a fork in the road on the left. A sign like a violin reads "Welcome to the city of memory-Zhiziluo". Turn to the fork in the road and walk 10 kilometers. First of all, I came to Laomudeng Village, followed by Ghost Town Zhiziluo.
Zhi Zi Luoxi existed during the reign of Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty, and became the state capital of Nujiang in 1954. 1974, the Nujiang government moved to Liuku, and Luoxi, Zhi Zi became a deserted city, maintaining the style of the 1970s and 1980s. After I went there, I found that this is not a completely deserted city. Some houses still have families living in them, but the buildings were built in the 1970s and 1980s. There is also a school where you can see some propaganda slogans and paintings of that year. There is an abandoned library next to the school, which can be climbed on the first floor and the third floor. You can see that the whole branch is surrounded by snow-capped mountains, which is very spectacular and magical. I think it will be shocking if Zhiziluo can keep this style in another 30 years.
The slogan on the school wall is very contemporary.
The branches are surrounded by snow-capped mountains.
The library next to the school has a good view.
Returning from Luoyuan Road, Zhi Zi, I passed an observation deck. It is said that when the weather is fine, I can see the scenery of Nujiang River 100 miles away. There was not enough sunshine and a lot of clouds that day, so we couldn't see that far. It feels foggy in the distance, and the Nujiang River has become as small as a stream in the valley.
When we arrived in Old Muden, we stopped to visit the church in Old Muden. On the way, I happened to meet a fellow villager who went to church. He took us all the way and told us the history of the church. This is Christianity. 192? 1996, a pair of American missionaries came here to preach. 1949 when liberation, her husband returned to the United States, and her wife died and was buried in Old Muden. The villagers said that these missionaries made many sacrifices. At that time, the traffic was so bad that they had to walk and ride horses. Mountains often collapse and some missionaries die on the road. After other missionaries came to the village, the villagers didn't accept it at that time and killed several with gunpowder guns. The rest is not easy. It took many years to affect the local people. After liberation, he encountered various movements. At that time, villagers with religious beliefs were arrested and sentenced to more than 20 years. Now it's finally okay. ZF religion allows multiple religions to coexist, and some persistent villagers gradually believe it. There are now more than 1000 people in Laomudeng village and more than 600 religious people. They preach in Nu dialect and Lisu script every Sunday. Those words with the same Latin letters on the blackboard are also called Lisu. The church was restored more than ten years ago. Missionaries used to be in thatched cottages.
During this trip, I saw various churches along the way, and I was deeply shocked by the power of faith. The greatness of faith deserves respect from all. I even think people with faith are very happy.
Missionary thesis
Old Muden church
What the inside of the church looks like
At about 7: 30 in the afternoon, I went to the bathhouse for a meeting. At this time, the meeting in the bathhouse has been dismissed. There is no villagers' tent by the river, but there are several vendors who buy oranges and drinks by the roadside. About 200 meters away from the bathhouse, there is a restaurant called Shunju, which looks bigger and has several private rooms. The large open space in front of the restaurant also imitates the feeling of Nujiang River and is paved with many small rubble. We stopped for dinner. The specialties of this restaurant are Nujiang fish and roast pork. Nujiang fish is rare, very special, slender and belongs to cold water fish, which is difficult to raise. Usually it is caught by fellow villagers with iron hooks, so it depends on fate. This time, we were unlucky, so we had to eat frozen food, 100 yuan 1 kg, which was much cheaper than Bingzhongluo's "Three Rivers Source", so we ordered two Nujiang fish, two Jin of roast pork and some side dishes, totaling more than 250 yuan. Nujiang fish tastes sweet and has delicate meat, but there are many small spines, which are also very characteristic and a little curved. Fish soup is light in color and delicious. The roast pork here is also very distinctive. It's big and big, roasted with skin, and it feels fat and juicy.
Nujiang fish is really special.
Have you ever seen such a big barbecue?
At night, we live on the edge of the city in Liuku County. The place where we live is called "Jiangnan Hotel". The boss is from Lijiang. The room is clean with hot water for bathing and parking. The room we live in has its back to the street, and it is quiet at night. Price 60 yuan/standard room, 50 yuan/single room.
Day 5: Liuku-Kunming.
Go to the farmer's market in Liuku early in the morning to buy authentic old nest ham. Laowo ham is actually more delicious than the famous Xuanwei ham. It was pickled by a little black pig fed by corn in the village of Laowo. Sweet but not salty, it is the top grade of ham, but the output is not large, so few people know that the top grade old nest ham 32 yuan is only a catty, and it is a necessary specialty. I didn't officially start until 8: 40. When I came back, it was the fifth day of the lunar new year. There are many cars returning. On Chu Avenue, I saw a car accident and got stuck in traffic for three times. Arrived in Kunming after 7 pm.
The boss's 20-square-meter shop is densely packed with hundreds of hams. After you buy it, you will peel, clean and trim it on the spot.
Travel tips:
1. Traveling to Bingzhongluo during the Spring Festival, the weather is sunny, and there are fewer landslides when there is little rain, which is safer. The water in Nujiang River is blue, and it turns yellow when it is drained in summer. The local dawn is later than Kunming. This period started at 7: 30, and it was all bright at 8: 00. It began to get dark after 7: 20 pm, and it was all dark after 7: 45 pm. Children's shoes can use this to plan their travel time. The temperature difference in Nujiang River is very large. It is no exaggeration to wear cotton-padded clothes in the morning and evening and short sleeves at noon.
2. From Liuku to Qiunabang, the road is getting harder and harder. Be sure to drive carefully and be polite and friendly. Especially in Ding Cun, the road is only enough for one car, but there is a wide place to meet cars every 10 meter. So be optimistic about the upcoming car in advance and be prepared. Last autumn, the slope of the road in Natong Village was steep, so cars with small displacement may not be able to get on it, but you can choose to walk (about 3.5 kilometers). The road to Cachalo Canyon, that is, the road to Tibet, is only 23 kilometers, but it is difficult to walk. There are often landslides before off-road vehicles can enter. According to friends who went in, the more you go in, the more beautiful the scenery is, and there are waterfalls and the like (this is also the only regret of our trip).
3. Most of the villagers we meet are simple, so please keep your promise if you book the children's shoes by phone. Otherwise, how would you feel if you booked a room from another angle and the other party didn't leave it for you there? So please respect and trust each other. (I mainly heard complaints from villagers here. Some foreign tourists booked rooms and didn't come to stay, which made them very hurt. )
4. Bingzhongluo ticket season 100 yuan/person. I thought it was expensive at that time, but after I entered Qiudou, I felt that it was really not easy to repair such a difficult road to the innermost part. So, despite the so-called evasion law, please don't evade tickets. It was meant to be here. This remote mountain village needs your help.
Careful children's shoes found that our travel route in Bingzhongluo was not very smooth because of the unfamiliar terrain. The smoother route is: on the first day, go to Puhua Temple, the first bay of Nujiang River-Peach Blossom Island Observation Platform, and then return to Bingzhongluo Township-Chongding Village-Sijitong-wuli village-Qiunabang (staying at He Laoshi's home at night). The next day, I went to Kaqialou Canyon (off-road vehicle)-Qiunatong Village-the beach on the other side of Taohua Island (staying in Bingzhongluo Township at night).
I feel very tired after writing all day. It's the first time I have a conscience to write a raiders. I don't know how to adjust the format to be consistent. It's a bit messy. Please forgive me. Finally, let's talk about the cost: since I went for the Spring Festival, there is no travel fee, the fuel cost is about 1 0,000, and the room and board cost is 750 per person. So, the four people ate and drank for five days every meal except Ding Cun that night, and even bought an old ham (450), which cost 4,000 yuan. Oh, my God, what a bargain! ! !
Yunnan is really a paradise for backpackers and go on road trip. Welcome all kinds of children's shoes to play in Yunnan!