How to fix the stool
loose joint
The frame of the chair seat is fixed by mortise and tenon (a kind of sharp fork, tenon or wooden block fixed in a small hole for connecting wooden boards) or mortise and tenon (a wooden nail for connecting wooden boards together). These joints are supported by triangular rubber blocks with grooves and are used to install chair legs. If a loose joint is found in time, it can be repaired with glue. If the connector is damaged, it must be removed and the locating pin replaced. Triangular rubber blocks may be fixed on the frame with glue and screws, and hidden nail joints may even be supported by hidden nails or screw fasteners. Carefully remove the connector with an old screwdriver or a hard-edged putty knife, and then replace the locating pin. Make sure that the connector is clean and dry before reinstalling.
Loose chair legs, handrails and railings
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Put a piece of cardboard on ...
Below one side of the corner brace;
Tighten this side at the end.
Please remove the screws first.
Cardboard. This will pull the connectors together.
Sometimes you can use mechanical fasteners, such as corner braces or leg braces, to repair the frame. Of course, it actually depends on the value of the furniture. Don't use metal parts to avoid reducing the value of antiques. Metal reinforcement can't work unless the joint is firmly connected, but it can make the firmly connected joint stronger. Fix the bracket with brass screws and make sure that these screws are of sufficient length.
Fix the metal angle iron on one side of the chair frame; Drill the screw holes in advance. Tuck a piece of cardboard under the other part of the angle iron, and then drill screw holes on that side. Screw the screw into the hole relatively tightly, take out the cardboard, and finally tighten the screw. When the screws are finally tightened, the gussets will firmly pull the seams together and eliminate the gaps left by the cardboard.
Overused chairs sometimes have loose legs, handrails and railings. But these problems can usually be solved.
Loose rungs or railings (including loose chair legs if no support is used) can sometimes be repaired by filling the joints with glue. However, the parts repaired in this way may become loose again. If you want to achieve a more lasting maintenance effect, please carefully remove the components from the frame. If both ends of the part are loose, the whole part should be removed. For joints that are too strong, please gently shake the parts to destroy the bonding effect of the glue; If necessary, use self-locking pliers. Put a gasket on the parts to prevent the pliers from damaging the wood.
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If the tenon is cracked or loose, please put it on it.
Apply a layer of glue and wrap it with silk thread.
Dry glue; Then tenon
Re-glue in tenon and groove.
Remove old adhesive from parts, tenons and grooves. The old glue doesn't work well. Care must be taken not to remove the wood at the end of the part, otherwise the part will not fit tightly. After removing the old glue, try to insert each end of the part into the corresponding mortise. If the two ends can be closely matched, apply glue to the mortise and tenon, and then insert the loose part back to its original position. Clamp the re-bonded joint and dry it thoroughly.
If the part in the tenon and groove is too loose, you must enlarge it to make the joint firm. If the end of the tenon cracks, you must reinforce it. Apply a thin layer of glue to the tenon and then wrap it tightly with silk thread. If necessary, you can apply more glue and wrap a layer of silk on the tenon. Dry the tenon wrapped with silk thread for a day, and then stick the reinforced end firmly in the tenon groove with glue. Be careful when inserting tenon, so as not to disturb the silk thread. Clamp the connector and let it dry thoroughly.
If the legs or rungs of the chair are too loose, but the tenons are intact, they can be stuffed into wooden wedges to make them match. Clamp the part in a vice or have an assistant hold it, and then carefully saw it in from the center of the end of the tenon. The kerf must be neat. At the center, the depth of the saw is roughly the same as the depth of the parts inserted into the mortise, which is about 1.9 cm. For smaller parts, please use hacksaw or bow saw to saw; If the parts are thick, a back saw or a combination saw should be used.
Cut a thin wooden wedge from a quarter fillet (if any) made of cork (such as pine), and its width and depth are exactly the same as those of the tenon cut. The purpose of this step is to slightly enlarge the incision with a wooden wedge so as to enlarge the tenon to match the mortise. When you are satisfied with the size of the wedge, please carefully knock the wedge into the incision. When the tenon becomes slightly larger, stop knocking and cut off the extra wood on the wedge with a multifunctional knife or a portable small folding knife. Be careful not to knock the wedge too deep; Too much wedging will crack the tenon.
If you want to check the wooden wedge, you can insert one end into the incision and knock it down with the handle of a screwdriver. If you see that the wood on both sides of the kerf begins to spread outward, it means that the wedge is too wide. Finally, apply glue and reassemble the joint as described above.
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If the tenon is too loose, please use a small wooden wedge to increase its volume. Saw the tenon (left) along a straight line and cut a thin wedge to fit the cut. Carefully knock the wooden wedge into the cut (right) to slightly increase the volume of the tenon; Be sure not to crack the tenon. Next, cut off the extra wood and glue the enlarged tenon back into the tenon groove.
You may not be able to disassemble this chair to perform the steps of installing the wedge. In this case, there are two other ways to complete the work. If the joint is too loose and the appearance is not important, remove the glue as much as possible. Make some thin wooden wedges with decorative strips (pine strips are a good choice). Dip the end of the wedge into the adhesive, and then hit the wedge between the part and the tenon along the periphery of the loose part with a hammer. Then, cut off the end of the wedge with a multi-function knife to make it flush with the surrounding wood surface. When you knock the wedge into the wood, you should use even force; Unless you are very careful when placing the wedge, there will always be some dislocation of the wedge, which will further weaken the firmness of the joint.
Drill a small hole with the width of 1.5 mm at an important position in the appearance, so that it can pass through the joint and the side of the loose part. Then use 10d standard common nail or hidden nail to make a metal pin. Saw off the nail cap with a hacksaw. Drop a drop or two of glue into the hole, and then drive the nail in. Knock the metal nail into the wood with a nail shooter or another 10d nail, and then fill the hole with wood hole filler.
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If appearance is important, you should drill through the side of the joint and go deep into the loose part. Nail the joint firmly by drilling holes.
Broken backrest handrails, railings and slats
Some chairs have horizontal bars across the backrest, which are fixed on the columns on both sides through mortises; Some chairs have vertical railings or slats, and these parts are fixed to curved or straight top slats through mortises. Crossbars, railings and slats are easy to replace, but the price of replacement parts may be relatively high-if the price of the chair is not worth the investment, then you don't have to bother. If you want to replace damaged parts or install missing parts, please order a new one at the handicraft or woodwork store.
First, remove the backrest of the chair. It may have joints at the joints of chair legs, chair seats and cross bars. Carefully pry open these connectors and remove all nails or screws. Only remove maintenance-related connectors. Some parts are usually accessible without completely disassembling the chair. If you are not sure that you can reassemble this chair, please number the parts when disassembling it.
Send the damaged part and an identical complete part to a handicraft or wooden shop for imitation. Carefully remove the old adhesive from the joints. Then reassemble the chair with new parts and glue the joints together. Hold the chair with a belt clamp until the glue dries, and then brush the whole chair again.
Outdoor chairs made of battens can adopt the same maintenance method, but usually wider decorative boards or thin boards can be used instead of battens. If you want to replace the damaged slats, please cut a wider decorative strip or sheet to match the frame. If the slats are fixed with screws, please drill screw holes in the new slats, and then install them with old screws or matching new screws. If it is fixed with rivets, please take out the old rivets and replace them with automatic tapping screws or flat-head sheet metal screws.
Broken non-structural rungs and handrails
Cracks and damages on non-structural rungs and railings can be repaired with glue. Remove the damaged ends of the parts and apply glue to each part. If the part just cracks, please inject glue into the crack with a glue injector. Carefully connect the parts, press them tightly together, and then wipe off the excess glue. Wrap the parts with a piece of wax paper, and then wrap the cracked part tightly with a rope to ensure the alignment of the parts. Clamp (or entangle) the chair with a belt clamp (or rope) and dry the glue thoroughly.
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Cracks in non-structural parts can be bonded with glue. Tie the glued part with a rope, and then hold it down until the glue is dry.
Handrails, chair legs and other structural parts are broken.
Where strength is important, the damaged part must be reinforced. The best reinforcement method is to nail the broken parts together with tenons (wooden nails). According to the thickness of the fracture site, choose to use 3 to 9 mm tenon; Drill a hole with the same size as the locating pin with a drill bit.
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To mark the location of the locating pin, please mark it in the part's
Drill a hole at one end and then insert a nail without a cover. Force component to end
Press together to mark the drilling position.
Separate the two ends of the broken part. Drill a hole with a depth of 2.5 cm in the center of one end to make it form an appropriate angle with the cross section, and its diameter is the same as that of the pin. This hole marks the position of the locating pin. Remove the 16d nail cap and insert it into the hole with the nail tip facing outwards. The tip of the nail should protrude slightly. In order to mark the position of the pin on the other piece of the broken part, please align the two pieces and press them together hard. The tip of the nail will leave a small hole in the corresponding part. Then drill a hole about 2.5 cm deep in the second block.
Measure the locating pin holes and cut a locating pin 6 mm shorter than the total depth of the two holes to accumulate glue. Use pliers to make a gap in the side of the pin, and use sandpaper or file to slightly round the end of the part. This will improve the distribution of glue and make the tenon easier to insert. Apply glue to one end of the locating pin and insert it into the hole at one end of the assembly. Then glue is applied to the protruding dowel and the cross section of the component, and the other piece of the broken component is pressed on the dowel. As mentioned above, precisely align the parts, wipe off the excess adhesive, and clamp the repaired parts.
Where tenons can't be used or where you want to improve strength, please reinforce the damaged position with steel repair plates. This patch can be used on any plane.
Glue the damaged parts as described above and dry them thoroughly. Then add a repair plate, which is long enough to cross the damaged part, but narrow enough not to attract others' attention. Use a repair plate with screw holes to place flat head screws.
Place the repair plate on the inner side or the least conspicuous side of the repaired part. If the appearance is not important, the repair plate can be fixed directly outside the damaged part with brass flat head screws. In order to make the maintenance part less conspicuous, please fix the maintenance board in the wood through mortise. Carefully draw the outline of the repair board on the wood with a scriber or a sharp nail. Use a chisel to cut a series of cuts perpendicular to the surface in the wood along the contour, and the depth is the same as the hole you need. For most service plates, the depth is about 6 mm. Leave space for covering the maintenance board with wood filler. Cross-cutting the wood in the direction perpendicular to the contour; Then turn the chisel, change it into downward oblique cutting, and remove the excess wood in the marked outline. When dealing with sawdust, only a small amount of wood is removed at a time.
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In order to obtain higher strength, please reinforce the damaged parts with steel repair plates. Use a sharp chisel to cut a hole in the area (left side) where the repair plate will be placed. Carve out the wheel corridor first, and then cut off the extra wood. When the cavity becomes smooth, stick the repair plate to its installation position (right); Drill the screw holes in advance.
When you make the bottom of the hole as smooth as possible, please check whether the patch is suitable and make necessary adjustments. If the maintenance plate can fit closely, drill some guide holes for the screws and apply a thin layer of glue to the plate holes. Dip the screws in glue, put the repair plate into the plate cavity, and then tighten the screws. Let the glue dry for a few days, and then evenly cover the repair plate with wooden filler or patch. Paint fillers to match the wood.
The chair seat is the most worn part of the chair, which means it is most likely to need maintenance. In the next section, we will discuss various maintenance methods of chair seats.