Enlightenment of the past in the distance·Kangding Mugecuo

Tencent · Daqin Net Dacheng Net · A Tale of Two Cities

The first association that the word "Kangding" gives me is Han Hong. That's right, he's that famous singer. He's fat, has short hair, wears glasses, and is quite talented. Although I have never been sure whether she has written or sung songs about Kangding, I don't want to Baidu.

Han Hong is my favorite singer, and Kangding is a place I want to visit.

The world-famous stage folk song "Kangding Love Song" is so old that it is covered with dust in my heart.

The scenery of Kangding is new to me, because I had never been there a week ago. I am still longing for...looking forward to...

I often feel that opportunities are like pie in the sky, falling suddenly without warning and hitting my head, which sometimes brings dizzying pleasure. . At this time, I will be so happy that I forget my beliefs, make a cross on my chest, thank God, Amen, I am so wrapped in love, a happy person.

The Tale of Two Cities campaign of Tencent Daqin Network and Dacheng Network acted as a piece of pie that hit me in the second half of December 2017. As a travel expert, I was selected to receive a free round trip on the high-speed train from Xi'an to Chengdu, free food and accommodation, and free tickets to visit Kangding Mugecuo Scenic Area. Such a good thing, I am so lucky.

Early in the morning on December 22, I boiled 3 white eggs, put on my hiking bag and set off.

The snow boots I purchased online have not arrived yet, so I regretfully had to wear a pair of long-leg flat cowhide boots. I hope I won’t get too cold when I get to Kangding.

In the Xi'an Line 2 subway, I was sitting on my seat with my head down playing with my mobile phone. An intellectual, capable and elegant young girl came over to say hello to me. She asked me if I was going to Mu. Gecuo...ah, it turns out she is QY, the leader of our trip. So amazing! What a coincidence. I told her that with you, I don’t have to worry about anything along the way, I can just follow along.

As agreed, the five travel experts selected by Tencent Daqin.com and the companions this time gathered at Xi'an North Railway Station to take the high-speed train to Chengdu - the D4251 train. One of the girls didn't make it in time. She was mercilessly locked outside the ticket gate and had to go back home, giving up this wonderful journey. Fortunately, I didn't procrastinate this time. After getting in the car, finding my seat, and putting my luggage away, every cell in my body felt relaxed and happy.

The seat is by the window. I brewed a cup of ten-year-old Pu'er, laid out snacks, and took off my hat and scarf. On the next seat, on the seat next to the aisle, and on the seats in front and behind, there were more than a dozen young people born in the 1990s. They were talking and laughing, saying that the high-speed rail was opening and they were going to Chengdu to eat hot pot together.

I have a bad stomach, but I also want to have a delicious meal of authentic Chengdu hot pot, no matter how spicy or numb it is. At worst, if I eat too much, I'll take stomach medicine again. This is a life-threatening situation for me.

The bus passes through Mianyang and stops for 3 minutes. I got off the car and walked a few steps, took a picture of the iron sign with Mianyang's name on it, and posted it on WeChat Moments with the text.

Mianyang is my hometown, a place where I lived briefly. When I was still young, I taught here. The school was on Fule Mountain, and a group of fifteen or sixteen-year-old children spent the whole day. The sky surrounds me. Sometimes I take them down the mountain and treat them to dinner. On the road, I often meet people selling green bamboo shoots with a load. A complete fresh green bamboo shoot with green leaves costs 8 cents. I remember clearly. We bought bamboo shoots, peeled them and took a crisp bite. We ran and laughed and basically finished eating when we reached the river at the bottom of the mountain.

At that time, there was a popular dish in Mianyang. The tails and leaves of green bamboo shoots were cut off and fried with minced garlic. It was called stir-fried phoenix tail. What a nice name. When fried, it looked like lettuce, but it was actually better than lettuce. The taste is more bitter. I almost hated this dish to death.

In Mianyang, I also met a writer friend whom I had known for years, who was the same age as my father. She behaves elegantly and speaks vividly and humorously. There is a dog in Mr. Jia Pingwa's novel "White Night", which was written after her family's dog. It is said that the first half of the novel "White Night" was written in Mianyang, on the hilltop where he lived when he wrote it. Just opposite the hill where I teach.

The past is as far away as the past life, and as clear as yesterday... The train continues to move forward, looking out the window, I really want to fly to Fule Mountain again to take a look at the house where I lived. , I wonder if it is still there...

Because I was in a hurry, I spent half an hour eating a bowl of spicy maocai at Chengdu East Railway Station. It was said to be the winter solstice, and people kept urging me to eat dumplings on WeChat. The 1.8 meter tall boy asked for a bowl of spicy dumplings, and I took one from his bowl, completing the winter solstice ritual.

Some Chinese medicine friends also reminded me to moxibustion my belly button, saying that moxibustion on my belly button during the winter solstice will prevent me from getting sick for a year. I did bring a small piece of moxa stick, but there was no way to moxibustion it. It was winter again in a public place, so how could I expose my navel?

After leaving the station, a khaki-colored minibus picked us up, and five Chengdu travel experts selected by Tencent Dacheng.com, plus the staff, made our travel team *** 13 members.

It was already two o'clock in the afternoon, and as soon as the car drove away, the general leader - a Chengdu girl wearing a green down jacket, editor WQ of Dacheng.com, gave everyone a small gift, Tencent's felt-faced penguin key. Bag.

Everyone introduced themselves, each felt fresh and excited for a while, and then fell asleep soon after.

Some people occasionally wake up and take pictures outside the window. Although they are taking the highway, the mountains and rivers on both sides of the road are very beautiful. From time to time, they see scattered villages, Sichuan-style houses, and black tiles. The white houses are covered with layers of layers. I really want to go down and sit next to those houses and draw them. Then I will draw trees in front of and behind the houses. On the trees, I will draw a few birds in love. The birds sing songs and the door In front of the painting are some simple mountain people and cute children.

The ride was long and bumpy, and lying on the seat felt like a cradle. I am half asleep, half asleep, half asleep, listening to the snoring of my neighbor, occasionally having a small dream, occasionally thinking of someone, something, an experience I thought I had forgotten, and occasionally, I suddenly understand something, such as Love, for example, the truth behind love, which I have never seen clearly, suddenly became clear and enlightened during this sleepy and tiring journey.

Due to road maintenance, the driver had no choice but to take a detour of more than 100 kilometers on the originally eight-hour journey, adding an extra hour to the journey.

When it got dark, I passed by a small town. Everyone was hungry, so we got out of the car and sat down. There was a warm little restaurant with no decoration, but the festive face of the proprietress made people extremely warm. A table of folk Sichuan cuisine was served, and the friends were full in a hurry.

Continue to run towards the destination, Kangding.

It gets darker.

I continued to sleep. After a while, my eyelids were opened by the lights outside the window. arrive! Kangding! As far as the eye can see, there is a small town with strong ethnic characteristics. There are many hotels and inns and B&Bs, and there are beautiful Tibetan letters everywhere.

22:00 in the evening. We stayed at the Solomabo Hotel.

The hotel is very high-end, with sufficient heating, modern design everywhere, and clever integration of Tibetan cultural symbols. It is spacious, clean and atmospheric. The hotel waiters look like Tibetan girls. Their skin is not white, but they are very beautiful. It is pleasing to the eye, the facial features are beautiful, and the pronunciation of Tibetan Mandarin is also very pleasant.

The room is a standard room with tatami mats, and the decoration materials are excellent. However, the water in the bathroom is not handled well. After washing, the floor is full of water, and the thick disposable slippers are instantly soaked.

The mattress and quilt were so comfortable that I fell asleep as soon as I lay down. I was worried about Chapu before, but later found out that my worries were completely unnecessary.

I slept very well, had a restful night without any dreams, and woke up feeling refreshed in the morning.

There is no high reflex.

With my small body, I had high altitude sickness when I went to Lijiang, which has an altitude of over 2,000, and Labrang Monastery, which has an altitude of over 3,000, and Kangding, which has an altitude of 3,880. I actually broke the rules and everything was normal. High reflex. Ha, happy.

A few friends said that this was the first time they stayed in a Tibetan area without electric mattresses, and they were so happy.

Breakfast is provided by the hotel, including white rice porridge, yak milk, meat buns, flower rolls, steamed buns, steamed buns, vegetables, side dishes, and boiled eggs.

It takes one hour to drive from the hotel to the gate of Mugecuo Scenic Area.

Innocent blue.

I sent photos to a few friends in Xi’an, and they replied: innocent blue. The blue down jacket I am wearing is also blue and elegant. The light is great, and my skin in the photo looks like it has been skin-beautifying software for several rounds.

Minimum buses are not allowed to enter the scenic spot. After paying the ticket and getting the insurance, the unified sightseeing car in the scenic spot took us all the way up the mountain, turning corners constantly. Everyone in the seat was thrown away for a while. It swung left and right for a while, and I was afraid of throwing the camera out of the car window several times.

Mugecuo Holy Lake is absolutely beautiful.

A large stone was erected on the beach by the lake, which read "Gold Coast" and "3780 meters above sea level". We took a group photo, and a big yellow dog came and walked around us with a good temper. The general leader, the girl WQ, said that its name is Xiao Huang, and we can meet it every time we come.

Walking up the mountain along the Mugecuo Plank Road, the river flows silently under the incompletely melted ice and snow, which is a beautiful feeling.

Beside a simple wooden bridge, two free ponies, one black and one white, looked like lovers, drinking water side by side. They didn't pay any attention to us when we came. Even though everyone gathered around to take pictures, they drank water by themselves and looked unfazed, like gods. After drinking enough, the two of them raised their heads and walked away one after another. The pace was very graceful and unhurried. They passed by me and were not afraid of strangers at all.

Continue walking to the high-altitude mountains. At noon, lunch is instant hot pot.

It is really a Sichuan specialty. This is the first time I have seen this kind of convenient hot pot. It is in the mountains, outdoors, there is no fire, and cold mineral water is poured in. It is a bit like a thickened warm baby heating bag. The cold water can boil in a moment... Although the cold wind was blowing, we ate hot and felt very touched.

It’s actually not particularly cold, at least not as cold as I imagined. It’s minus 4 or 5 degrees Celsius, which is similar to Xi’an. The sun is very good and warm, far away from the haze.

After dinner, we continued up the mountain and looked at the holy lake, the river, the Tibetan cooking smoke, the clouds above our heads, and the Gongga Snow Mountain higher up... I couldn’t walk any further.

After going down the mountain, we were taken by a tour bus to another lake - Omatso, 3,500 meters above sea level.

Across the lake is the famous "Medicine Boiling Spring", which is actually a group of hot springs for footbathing, with various temperatures and a corridor shape.

There are live fish in two of the pools. As soon as you put your feet in, all the fish rush up and bite your feet. Hahaha, it's such a strange feeling. There is also a hot spring for boiling eggs. The water temperature is very high and raw eggs can be soaked, but they are medium-cooked. The yolks are liquid and are said to be more nutritious than fully cooked eggs.

I soaked my feet in the hot spring, stretched my waist and lay back on the wood, looking at the clouds above my head, I was too lazy to fall asleep, and even had a little dream.

The next scenic spot is Lotus Mountain and Seven Color Sea, with Mani Dou. It was almost dusk, so I walked around the Mani Dui three times clockwise, chanting Om Mani Pai Me Hum constantly, and praying silently in my heart for blessings for my relatives and friends.

Back in Kangding City, it’s not dark yet. As our car passed through the city, I stretched my eyes out of the car window and caressed the small city outside the window. I discovered two Catholic churches. This discovery surprised me very much. I thought that in Tibetan areas, there would be no other religions except Buddhism. God is so awesome! It also has a foothold in the Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture. Freedom of belief. very nice.

Dinner is mutton soup pot. Enjoyable!

To be honest, I really don’t want to leave so soon. There must be more beauty in Kangding.

I will come back next time, stay a little longer, and wander around carefully. This trip to Mugecuo in Kangding can be regarded as planting a seed for me.

On the road, the bumps of the minibus continued, the state of half-asleep and half-awake, and the epiphany of the past continued in sleepiness.

I got off the bus at an unknown place at noon and had a meal of spicy fish. The person in charge is a Tibetan woman under thirty years old. She skillfully sautés onions, ginger and garlic, stir-fries ingredients, adds soup, fish, ingredients, and side dishes... Looking at her operations, I feel that she knows how to cook the pot. Full of love, because the way she cooks is really dedicated and passionate, like the protagonist on the stage.

I have no illusions, this lunch is really delicious.

The weather is sunny. After passing through the Erlang Mountain Tunnel, there was dark ice on the way down the mountain, and all vehicles passing by were equipped with anti-skid chains.

Our minibuses are no exception. Hang up the chain and control the speed down the mountain for safety.

After arriving in Ya'an in the afternoon, take the expressway and then arrive in Chengdu.

At around four o'clock in the afternoon on December 24, a minibus took us to Chengdu Tianfu Square. Everyone got out of the car and dispersed. The master friends in Chengdu went home, and the master friends in Xi'an went to the hotel they booked.

The hotel I booked was near Kuanzhai Alley. I looked at the map and saw that it was not far from Tianfu Square. It was still early and I wasn’t tired yet, so I picked up a free bicycle on the roadside. I rode through the streets and alleys while looking left and right. Because the mountaineering bag was relatively heavy, I fell on the road. It didn't hurt even if I wore thick clothes. Feeling very hot, I took off my down jacket and soon arrived at the check-in place.

Put down your luggage and finish washing briefly. Enjoy your bicycle and go straight to Wenshu Monastery. I really love the feeling of being able to ride a bicycle and fly to other places. It feels like I am very close to this place and not a guest.

It is said that the sweet water noodles opposite Wenshu Monastery are very delicious, and there is often a queue. Friends in Xi'an will bring a few bowls back every time they go here on business. Maybe it's because I have a bad stomach. The noodles are as thick as fingers. When placed in the bowl, they are not soft at all, like a sculpture in the bowl. I bought it, took a few bites, and said to my friend: "Can I tell the truth now? Don't be sad. I don't dare to eat it for fear that I won't be able to digest it." She is my friend in Xi'an, whose name is My name is Xiaochuan. He came to Chengdu to give lectures. After the lecture, he was waiting for me in Chengdu to go shopping together, and then we went back to Xi'an together.

Ogawa was so nice, she took half of my bowl of noodles and ate it all instantly.

I went to Wenshu Monastery and took two photos. This is my 9th time coming to Chengdu. But the last time I took pictures at Wenshu Monastery was in the autumn of 1996. After a gap of 21 years, revisiting the old place felt completely strange and not familiar at all.

H, a friend from the Chengdu media, drove Xiaochuan and I to Jinli. My friends Sandao and QY were waiting for me in Jinli. Me, and then they're going to the cinema to watch "The Legend of the Demon Cat."

Jinli at night is a bit like the Drum Tower Pedestrian Street in Xi'an, with ancient buildings, lights, dense shops, delicious food, fun, tourist souvenirs, noisy and crowded.

Starbucks is very unique, with a mix of modern and antique styles. We sat in the open air in the backyard. Everyone was afraid of losing sleep after drinking coffee. Even Xiaochuan, who loves coffee the most, shook his head.

Because we had a happy chat, my two friends liked Sandao and QY, the new friends they met, and they also liked the new friends I brought.

Being a good person again, what a good bridge I am.

Everyone sat down without thinking about getting up. Sandao and QY canceled going to the cinema, and I also cut down on my time plan to visit Jinli. A few hours, comfortable weather, gentle breeze, interesting topics, and wonderful gatherings.

After we separated, I just walked around Jinli for ten minutes, bought a few snacks, and then went back to the hotel to sleep.

December 25th. At noon, I went to eat nourishing hotpot next to Wuhou Temple with local friends in Chengdu.

Go shopping for clothes after eating.

A store opened by an acquaintance is located in a unit on the 17th floor of a community. The elevator is broken. Climbing the stairs one by one, shop owner Yu Ling said that those who climb the stairs to buy clothes are true lovers.

Good guys, a group of us entered her store and all of us collapsed. We had no energy to try on clothes. Two of us lay down on the sofa, two on the underground mat, and one in the back room. Fell asleep.

Drink tea when you wake up. After drinking, I stood up and tried on clothes.

They are all clothes suitable for the southern climate. We try them on, take photos, and compliment each other.

Finally, I bought a pair of black boot pants.

It’s Yu Ling’s birthday, spicy hot pot for dinner. Awesome! There are all kinds of food to eat. While eating, I told my friends in Chengdu: "It's actually better than Haidilao!" They laughed at me and told me not to mention Haidilao. I said you have to queue up to eat Haidilao in Xi'an, and it's the same in Beijing.

Someone was singing and applauding in the private room next door. Xiaochuan said we can sing too, come on! She poked me up.

Okay, open the door and PK it. I stood up and sang a northern Shaanxi folk song "A Braid That Long Can't Reach the Sky" for my friends in Chengdu. I had a wild voice, a high octave, and an original singing method. I learned this song from the artist Guo Qingfeng at a dinner table many years ago.

Before the song was finished, four or five diners from next door came in, carrying wine glasses and applauding. They came from Lanzhou and said they came to eat hot pot after the high-speed rail was opened.

How can we thank those who have worked hard for the opening of high-speed rail? ! Although I don’t know them, I enjoy the convenience they provide, and I really want to express my gratitude in my heart.

With everyone’s encouragement, my strange friend from Lanzhou sang a duet with me called “White Sheep Belly Handkerchief Three Blues”. To boast, I think it was better than Zhu Jun’s from “Artistic Life” .

I cut the cake, sang happy birthday, and once again climbed to the 17th floor with all my strength. Drink tea and chat.

respectively.

Chengdu - I love you.

This is a city I will never tire of.

I love Xi’an even more. My hometown.

At 14:27 on December 26, D4260, from Chengdu east to Xi'an north.

Thanks to sister H from Chengdu who drove all the way to see us off. Because of your speed, we didn’t miss the train. We have agreed that when spring comes next year, you will come to Xi'an and we will go to Huashan together.

Back!

This place that I ran away from countless times and returned to countless times left me scarred, but I still couldn't let it go, convincing myself again and again not to hold grudges. My Xi'an, maybe one day I will continue to leave, but I will definitely come back.

Am I too willful? The running account has 7 pages and more than 5,700 words. I can't stop writing.

? (Xi’an at the end of December 2017)