Snooker cue with billiards cue
First of all, a single club
Second, 3/4 Split Club.
Third, 1/2 Split Club
Four, four/five split clubs
5.3/4 high splitting club (alias: straight shot, single shot, single shot)
The shaft of the club is integrated. There is no joint in the middle, and the front branch and the different Mu Cha of the back stalk are together. The length of the rod is about 145cm~ 147cm.
Advantages: good force transmission. Because in theory, integrated wood transmission is better. Although the wood of the front branch and the back stalk are different, they are all wood and have similar physical properties.
Disadvantages: inconvenient to carry. The minimum length of the club is 145cm, and the extended handle or the club box may be longer, so many cars can't fit in the trunk or back seat. There is an interface from the position of the club head down to about 3/4 of the whole club, and the club can be unscrewed and installed in the club box when not in use. After unscrewing, the length of the front branch is about 1 10cm, and the length of the rear handle is about 35-36cm.
Advantages: it is convenient to carry, and the interface is close to the center of gravity of the club, so that the whole club can be stressed evenly. There is an interface in the center of the whole club. When not in use, you can unscrew the club and put it in the club box.
Apart from portability, there are few such styles. The interface position is higher than 3/4, and there are few clubs in this interface position. The TM2 model under Thailand's MASTER brand is well known, because the famous snooker player mark williams has won many awards for using this club.
Advantages: easy to carry.
Disadvantages: Because the joint is located in the ash wood part, long-term use may cause the wood grain dislocation of the front and rear branches, which will affect the appearance. Length: the total length of the club, the straight line length from the position of the copper ring to the end of the club. Usually 145cm~ 147cm.
Weight: generally 480-520g, that is, 16oz~20oz.
Rod head diameter: that is, the diameter of copper hoop, usually between 9.5mm and10 mm.
Rear handle diameter: the diameter of the thickest part of the rear handle.
Taper: The club is thin at the front and thick at the back, but not straight. Different brands of clubs will have different radians, which is called taper.
Center of gravity position: the center of gravity position of the whole club is usually located at the position where the head accounts for 3/4 of the whole club, and different brands will have subtle differences.
Some misunderstandings in choosing clubs.
Myth 1: Maple Club is better than Ash Club.
Often encounter this problem, many friends think that maple clubs are more elastic, more cloudy and have better performance than pewter clubs. Actually, it's not exactly like this. Fraxinus mandshurica was always used as the main raw material for making grab sticks in ancient China, because Fraxinus mandshurica has good elasticity and toughness, good stability and is not easy to deform. Do you still remember that in The Water Margin, Song Wu was drunk on Jingyanggang with a pewter whistle stick in his hand (although it was useless to kill a tiger). This shows that at least in the Song Dynasty, the application technology of ash has been quite common and mature. I don't deny that maple clubs are really good in elasticity. They are really better than ash clubs in some respects. However, it can't be said that any maple club is better than the gray club. Maple is more affected by the weather, and its adaptability is not as strong as ash. In different temperature and humidity environments, the performance fluctuates slightly, and the control difficulty increases accordingly. Here, I don't want to give these two kinds of clubs a competition, but the point is that maple is better than ash, which is definitely a misunderstanding. In the simplest example, jimmy white, who is recognized as the strongest among the masters, used an ash wood club.
Myth 2: Wood grain determines the performance of the club.
This problem is also a common misunderstanding. Many friends use wood grain as the first criterion when choosing clubs. Some friends say that the wood grain of the club is not straight, and the club will deform along the wood grain in the future, which I think is incorrect. The grain of the club actually depends on the cutting angle of the whole material. The larger the cutting angle, the straighter the arrow. We know that the choice of clubs may come from the trunk, bark, root, crown and even branches of a tree. Why are the clubs of the same material and brand-name clubs much more expensive than brand-name clubs? Because brand-name clubs are very picky in material selection, they generally only choose the part near the bark in the middle of the trunk, commonly known as "two skins". This part of the wood meets the requirements of hardness and elasticity to the maximum extent and is not easy to deform. Low-grade clubs are not so strict, so if you unfortunately choose a club with wood branches, no matter how good the grain of your club is, it is difficult to avoid deformation. Many friends say that the lines of some foreign brands such as JP are not good. In fact, this is because they reduced the cutting angle of wood in order to save more precious materials. Conditional friends can also have a try. JP with bad lines feels the same penetration and complete transmission force when hitting the ball, which can prove that lines do not determine the performance of the club.
Myth 3: the misunderstanding of mushroom-shaped leather head with small copper mouth
This is also a very common misunderstanding. Many friends like to choose copper nozzles with smaller diameters when choosing clubs. The most common ones are 9.5mm and 9mm, and some even require smaller copper nozzles. After buying it back, they have to repair a mushroom skin. Why is this? In fact, many friends think that the smaller the club head, the more accurate the shot. In fact, this is not correct. The smaller the club head, the easier it is for the white ball to spin, because it is difficult for you to hit the center of the white ball stably, and the rotation of the white ball has an absolute influence on the accuracy. Mushroom head is actually a technology invented to make up for the small club head. Personally, I don't admire the mushroom head, because the mushroom head is congenitally deficient. (Therefore, I suggest that friends might as well choose a 9.8mm or 10 mm club head. As long as they adapt themselves, it will greatly help improve the accuracy. Most professional players' clubs are actually within this range. Everyone loves O 'Sullivan, with a 9.8 mm club head.
Other misunderstandings:
Other common misconceptions include: the heavier the club, the stronger the insertion force. The longer the club, the more stable the shot. A heavy club can really increase the impact of the club on the ball, but the strength of rotation depends more on the integrity and penetration of the strength than how hard you hit the ball. An overweight club will affect the stability of the hand and reduce the hitting accuracy, which is difficult to control. However, an excessively long club can not improve the stability of hitting the ball, on the contrary, it will decrease, because the longer the club is, the greater the torque of moving back and forth, and the greater the possibility of deformation. It is stipulated by the International Federation of Taiwan that the clubs used in official competitions should not be shorter than 135mm, and the length is not limited, which fully illustrates this point, and this problem is more related to the technical level, which is also the most difficult place I mentioned at the beginning of the article.