The popular distribution and decoration of ancient women
1. Junction type
This hairstyle consists of a bun, some standing on the top of the head, some leaning to both sides, some spreading flat, some hanging down, and women's own hair is limited, often accompanied by' wigs' and jewelry, which is majestic and gorgeous. According to records, it is said that during the reign of Emperor Wudi of the Han Dynasty, the Empress Dowager Yaochi came to the court meeting, and all the fairies had different hairpins with lofty rings. The emperor ordered his courtiers and concubines to follow suit, hence the name "Looking at the fairy hairpin" (1), which was later decorated with various jewels, golden hairpin, wind hairpin or outing, making it even more magnificent and noble. This high-circle hairstyle, with one to nine hairstyles, is the most distinguished hairstyle, and is often used to express the hairstyles of fairies, queens, empresses and noble ladies in mythology (as can be seen from the hairstyles of eighty-seven immortals and jade girls in Yongle Palace murals). Girls who have never left the room can also use it, but the decoration should not be too gorgeous. This hairstyle was quite popular in the Qin and Han dynasties and the pre-Qin period. After the Han dynasty, it was worshipped as a fairy hairstyle and adopted by celebrities and ladies.
Its forms are high, almost, hanging, overhead and both sides, and the number can be ligated at will, with many changes and flexible application.
2. Torsion type
This is a hairstyle created at the end of the Han Dynasty. According to records, it was planned by Empress Zhen, and it became popular after worshipping each other. This hairstyle is to divide the hair into several strands, twist it into a ball like a twist and wrap it around the head. According to records, when Hou Zhen entered the palace, there was a green snake in the palace. When Hou Zhen dresses every day, she winds the snake and shapes it, imitating Hou Zhen's appearance and combing it into a bun. The daily steamed bun is different due to the snake-like change, so it is named "Lingshe steamed bun".
This hairstyle is flexible, vivid and charming, suitable for goddesses and precious women who have not left the room. There are many forms of this hairstyle change, which can be twisted around the top of the head, the side of the head and the front of the head. The changes are vivid and comfortable, especially in ancient ladies' paintings. It can be used flexibly in modeling.
3. Disc stacking type
This hairstyle can be seen in paintings, sculptures and tomb murals in the Tang Dynasty. In the tomb mural of Li Huixian, Princess Yongtai, the granddaughter of Wu Zetian in Tang Dynasty, there are many stacked buns. According to records; Women in Chang 'an in the Tang Dynasty liked to comb their hair in a bun (that is, snail bun). Back, its shape is towering but not falling, and the number is a bun. All the rage in Chang 'an, this kind of "steamed stuffed bun" is mainly made in the form of folding. The method is to tie the hair with silk thread, and then fold the bun into a spiral shape by knitting, folding and folding, and place it on the top of the head or on both sides or on the forehead and back of the head. It can also be folded into various forms at will.
This hairstyle is very beautiful and decorative. In Wang Yuyang's poems, he praised "green snails are like steamed buns, so delicious". According to the method of plate stacking, various snails can be made. It can be used flexibly in modeling.
Step 4: Reverse the style.
According to Duan's Pinpin, this hairstyle is that the princess in the palace combs her buttocks, which was also very popular in Sui and Tang Dynasties. "Dressing Table" recorded that "Tang Wude half combed his hips, turned his hips back and divided his hips". Inverted hair is to gather the hair high and turn it over, which also belongs to the hairstyle of high bun. It is made by gathering hair backwards, tying it with silk thread, and then dividing it into strands and turning it into various styles. Some combs are woven into the shape of bird wings, which is called "police ponytail", some combs are woven into single-knife or double-knife bun, which is called "rotary knife bun", and some turn multiple strands of hair into fancy, which is called "hundred flowers". There are many forms and techniques, all of which are closely combined and tossed around.
This hairstyle is mostly used by ladies-in-waiting and imperial concubines. Girls who don't leave the room often leave a tail under the inverted bun so that it hangs over their shoulders, which is called "dovetail" or "split bun". Although the names of the past dynasties are different, the basic hairstyles are similar, and they can be flexibly changed and referenced when modeling.
5. Spine knot type
This hairstyle is the most common and widely used in ancient women's hairstyles, and it has been adopted in all dynasties and lasted for the longest time, from Shang and Zhou Dynasties, Qin and Han Dynasties, Sui and Tang Dynasties, Song Dynasty, Yuan Dynasty, Ming Dynasty and Qing Dynasty. It's just that the hairstyle is high and low, and the spine changes in the front, middle, left and right are different. The combing method of this hairstyle is to tie the hair on the top of the head or on the side of the head, or on the forehead and back of the head, tie it up and tie it into a vertebra, which can be coiled into one vertebra, two vertebrae to three vertebrae, so that it stands upright on the top of the head or on both sides. According to records, Sun Shou, his wife, put the knot vertebra on the side of her head to make it fall off, which is called "falling horse bun", also known as "Liang Xin makeup". It was all the rage. When Zhao Hede entered the palace, he rolled his hair into a vertebra, which was called "emerging bun". Hongliang's wife Meng Guang likes to comb her hips. These hairstyles are all changes in the shape of the knot. If you master the carding method, you can change or create all kinds of vertebral buns, which can be used flexibly in modeling. All kinds of vertebral buns are mostly used by married young women.
Step 6 be symmetrical
This hairstyle has been used since Qin and Han dynasties and has been adopted in all previous dynasties. Its typical hairstyles are "double bun" and "bun", and "double bun" is mainly the hairstyles of maids and maids. It is said that Qin Shihuang ordered ladies-in-waiting to wear double buns and suspenders until the Qing Dynasty. This hairstyle is to divide the hair into two strands from the top, comb it on both sides, tie it on both sides, and then tie it into two big buns, so that the two sides are placed symmetrically. It can also be tied symmetrically to make it droop, which is good for folk girls.
"haircut"
This is a kind of children's hair that can be used by both men and women. Because of its shape, it is called "hair". Its shape is that the hair is divided into two strands, symmetrically tied into two vertebrae, placed on the left and right sides of the head, and a small lock of tail hair is pulled out from the bun, so that it naturally hangs down to the shoulders. This is the main hairstyle of children's hair in past dynasties.
Cicada and Bo temples, these two are not hairstyles, but all kinds of hairstyles should be matched with two kinds of temples.
According to records, the cicada temple was built by Mo Qiongshu, the imperial secretary of Wei Wendi Cao Pi. This is the decoration of the temple. It is called "cicada's temples" because the temples are combed very thin and transparent, and the shape is like cicada's wings. Ancient poems say that women often have "cloud temple". The combination and contrast of thin cicada temples and thick hairstyles enrich women's hairstyles.
The untimely temple of Bo and Jade Fu Zhi all stipulated that concubines in the palace should have a temple of Bo, and so should noble ladies. Bo's temples cover his ears with temples or cover his ears back, which is a kind of etiquette temples.
The most common hairstyles for women can be divided into the above six categories according to their combing rules. In terms of styling, more hairstyles can be combed according to various combing methods, such as bun, pin, curly hair, twist and knot, and combined according to dynasty, identity, age and personality to create better hairstyles.
Women's hairstyles in the Tang Dynasty are varied. Duan of the Tang Dynasty wrote in Jipin: "There are semi-rotating bun, anti-wan bun and Leyou bun in Gaozu Palace. In Ming Taizu Palace, the double ring looks at the fairy bun, the Uighur bun, and the imperial concubine makes the worry bun. In Zhenyuan, there are soft buns and makeup buns. In Chang 'an city, there are lingering steamed buns, shocking steamed buns, jilted steamed buns and Japanese steamed buns. "In addition, there are descriptions of women's hairstyles in the Tang Dynasty in dressing tables, new Tang books and China's ancient and modern notes. Archaeologists of cultural relics have seen the hair styles described in some ancient books in the pottery figurines unearthed in the tombs of the Tang Dynasty, as well as stone carvings and murals, but they are not as diverse as those unearthed in the three-color kilns of Tang Changan Pingkangfang in the eastern suburb of Xi 'an and Li Quanfang in the western suburb. This paper will introduce the pottery figurines and their hairstyles in Chang 'an Sancai Kiln in Tang Dynasty, and see through the prosperity and opening of Tang society from the colorful hairstyles of women in Tang Dynasty.
In A.D. 1368, the famous emperor Zhu Yuanzhang proclaimed himself emperor in Yingtian, and his title was founded. After the founding of the Ming Dynasty, a series of practical measures were taken to promote the recovery of production. With the improvement of productivity, the market is further expanded, new industries appear, some industrial cities are formed, and a unified multi-ethnic country is further consolidated. After the Ming Dynasty seized power from the Yuan Dynasty ruled by Mongolia, it paid attention to rectifying the etiquette that did not conform to the customs of the Han nationality, and adopted and restored the systems and customs of the Tang and Song Dynasties. According to the collected data, although the hair styles of women in Ming Dynasty were not as diverse as those in Tang and Song Dynasties, they also had some characteristics of their own times.
In the early Ming Dynasty, the hairstyle of Song and Yuan Dynasties was basically inherited. After Jiajing, women's hairstyles have changed obviously. "Tao Xin bun" was a fashionable hairstyle at that time. The women's bun is combed into a flat circle, and then the top of the bun is decorated with flowers. Later, it evolved into a gold and silver silk knot with a high comb. The top of the bun is also decorated with pearls, jade and jadeite. There are various hair styles of "Peach Blossom Bun", such as "Peach Blossom Bun", "Goose Heart Bun" and "Luoma Bun" which imitate the Han Dynasty.
Double bun: Double bun in Ming Dynasty, similar to the bun in Spring and Autumn Period and Warring States Period. Called "Bazi", it is a simple and generous hairstyle preferred by Jiangnan women. Especially, there are many ladies-in-waiting who comb this kind of bun, and the bun style is rich and varied, which is deeply loved by folk women.
Fake steamed bun: also known as parallel steamed bun, it was loved by ladies-in-waiting in Ming Dynasty. At that time, there was a saying that "ladies-in-waiting had a high bun, while folks liked a low bun". This kind of bun is mostly antique. The production method is to weave a circle with iron wire first, and then weave the hair on the plate, which becomes a cosmetic ornament to use. It was particularly popular in the late Ming and early Qing dynasties. In some jewelry stores, there are ready-made fake buns for sale.
Headband: also known as "Epa". In the Ming Dynasty, both old women and young girls were very popular. First, the headband evolved from the original "Baotou". At first, it was woven into net-like hair with zongsi. At first, it was fashionable and wide, and then it was narrow. Its practicality is used to tie hair, and it is also decorative. Narrow on the forehead and eyebrows. This ornament has been around since the Ming Dynasty.
Peony head: a kind of high bun, popular in Suzhou, and gradually spread to the north. You Dong's poem: "It is said that Jiangnan is one foot high, and six palaces strive to learn peony heads." Some people say that the most serious person can't lift his head and describe his hairstyle as very high, about seven inches, with fluffy sideburns, smooth bun and double locks at the end. This hairstyle usually adds a wig.
Maids in the Ming Dynasty all wore hairstyles, lotus crowns and hairpin flowers.
Analysis of Hairstyles in Qing Dynasty
The ancestors of the Qing Dynasty were Manchu people who lived in the northeast of China. At the end of the Ming Dynasty, peasant uprisings broke out one after another, and Manchu aristocrats took advantage of it to establish the Qing Dynasty in Beijing in 1644, and191year was wiped out. During these 237 years, the Qing Dynasty experienced three stages. In the early stage, it was a unified multi-ethnic country, which was relatively consolidated. In the middle period, with the further development of social economy, capitalism began to sprout and eventually entered the decline and disintegration of feudal social system.
After the Qing rulers established political power in Shanhaiguan, they forced Han people to follow Manchu customs, and shaving their hair and leaving their braids was one of them. In the early Qing dynasty, women's hair styles and decorations also retained their own national characteristics, and then gradually changed obviously. The ornaments on the bun are made of pearls instead of gold and silver, which is the characteristic of Chongzhen period. In the mid-term, we advocated high bun, such as imitating the hairstyle of Manchu maids, that is, dividing the hair into two pieces, called "fork head", and trimming a lock of hair hanging from the back of the head into two sharp corners, called "dovetail". Since then, flat head has become popular, which is called "three sets of flat head" or "Suzhou pouting". This kind of bun is suitable for all ages and has changed the custom of high bun. Hair accessories also have their own characteristics, such as "crown", which is especially suitable for elderly women. There is also the prefix, which is as luxurious as an archway, and the big pull wing favored by the royal family is one of the most famous ones.
Gaoji: In Qing Dynasty, Gaoji was made of wigs mixed with fillers, such as peony heads, shower heads and alms bowls, which were popular in Kanggan years. Its style is luxurious, towering more than seven inches, just like blooming peony and lotus. Comb the back of the head into a flat three-layer disk and fix it with a hairpin or hairpin. After the bun, it is dovetail-shaped, and the bowl head is shaped like a bowl cover. Therefore, the bun-style hair combing is more complicated, so it gradually tends to be eliminated when the hairstyle is popular in the late Qing Dynasty.
Big pull wings: also known as "flag bun", it is the most distinctive hairstyle of Manchu women in Qing Dynasty, which integrates hairstyle and makeup. Its combing method is particularly complicated, which evolved from the influence of Han women's "Ruyitou" and was loved by ladies in the Qing court.
Crown, code: Older women in Qing Dynasty covered buns with ornaments made of hard paper and black satin, embroidered with auspicious patterns and longevity words, and pinned them with pins. Middle-aged women often wear "braids" made of mane and hemp, inlaid with silks and satins, and decorated with flowers, which makes them more beautiful and gorgeous. The code is shaped like an upper with only two walls. Later, it evolved into code that is not directly used, which is called "real code". Actually, it's just a dollar bun on your head.
Women's love for makeup has existed since ancient times.
As far as common sense is concerned, beauty is not only expensive, but also time-consuming, both of which are indispensable and cannot be carefully carved.
In ancient China, women's makeup was first popularized in the Tang Dynasty. The representative of the Tang Dynasty should be the first royal family. At that time, women's makeup must have originated from the court, but the folk effect; As far as broadcasting is concerned, the official prostitutes and women of Beili Qunhua are effective. The makeup techniques of prostitutes' lips, eyebrows, face and hair are more innovative on the basis of inheriting the general makeup characteristics. The content is as follows:
I. Hairstyles The beauty and ugliness of ancient women's hairstyles are closely related to their beauty. The predecessors praised women's language, such as "hair like clouds" and "long hair hanging down to the ground"; Hairstyles also have many names, which are divided into "high bun" and "falling horse bun". The form of the former orientation is as high as a towering cloud, and we can know it by looking at the headdresses of ladies-in-waiting or princesses in the Tang Dynasty. The latter hangs, just like most of the most fashionable women in Shanghai in the 1930s and 1940s.
Second, there is an idiom called "eyes and eyes", which shows that the eyes are as important as the purpose and an indispensable part of a woman's beautiful appearance. Zhang Chang thrush is a famous story in Han Dynasty. The CEO of Beijing once painted eyebrows for his mayor's wife. It was a beautiful story at that time, and it was even written into The Biography of Hanshu Zhang Chang.
Eyebrows also have two kinds of makeup. One is thin and long, and the other is wide and wide. Of course, the specific painting method is a bit particular, in short, it is to look good. It is said that there is a so-called "Ten Eyebrows in West Shu".
Third, there was a fashion of black paste filling lips in the lip Tang Dynasty. Bai Letian's poem "Current Affairs Makeup": "Black ointment is like mud on the lips." "Five Elements of the Tang Dynasty": "At the end of the Yuan Dynasty, strange makeup prevailed, and black paste was used to note the lips instead of vermicelli."
"Qing" said: "In the Tang Dynasty, when Nuo and Zhao advocated the family, they still insisted on their lips, so women could distinguish beauty from ugliness. The names of the noted works are different, namely, Slight Rouge Halo, Pomegranate Jiao, Scarlet Spring, Tender Spiced Spring, Banbianjiao, Wanquanhong, Holy Sandalwood Heart, Dew, Neijia Circle, Qiaogong, Zhui Er Yin, Faint Heart, Zhu Longge, Shuang and Hua Nu. " It can be seen that in the late Tang Dynasty, it was extraordinary to advocate the makeup of home lips.
The prevailing climate in turn affects the mainstream society. Later, good women gradually developed the habit of imitating prostitutes' makeup, which was despised by orthodox families.
"Xu Xiaozhi" said: "Mrs. Cui Shu of Tang dynasty ruled the family and eliminated it, and concubines were not allowed to make contemporary makeup." It is forbidden to dislike the fashionable makeup of prostitutes. But this kind of intervention, unless strictly bound by power, often has little effect.
Tan Qian's Miscellaneous Jujube Forest in Ming Dynasty quoted Anyang people as saying: "Hongzhi, Chu, good at home makeup, shame prostitutes." Because Liu Changshi paid more attention to the effect of intention, he gradually followed suit, and the literati couldn't stop. Recently, smelting ability is better than prostitution, so you can't tell. The decline of customs. " Sigh to sigh, the wind is unstoppable, but it is a helpless fact.
As the saying goes, "In modern times, smelting capacity is better than prostitutes, so there is no way to tell", so women's makeup in the middle and late Ming Dynasty has been better than prostitutes. You can take a look at some entertainers and fashion models today and get a glimpse of the specific situation.
In fact, during the Yuan and Ming Dynasties, there were special regulations on the clothes of prostitutes and musicians.
According to Yuan Zhang Dian, "In the fifth year of Yuan Dynasty, books were kept, prostitutes wore soap shirts and corner scarves, and their parents wore blue headscarves." "History of the Yuan Dynasty: Records of the Imperial Government" said: "In the first year of Injong's reign, clothes were graded (graded): prostitutes were only allowed to take soap and horses."
There is a similar provision in the History of the Ming Dynasty: "The Ministry of Industry wears a crown, and Hongwu will be fixed for three years. ..... A prostitute with a dazzling crown is not allowed to be with a civilian wife ... The master of the workshop always wears a green towel to suit others. " But from the practical point of view, I am afraid it is inevitable.
With the professional characteristics of prostitutes, they have to make a living by selling jokes. If you want to win the favor of customers, you must deliberately pursue makeup. The result of this deliberate pursuit is to take small feet to cater to psychopathic customers.
Prostitutes' foot-binding was the most prosperous after the Song and Yuan Dynasties. In ancient times, women not only powdered Zhu, but also painted their foreheads yellow and their eyebrows black. Generally speaking, they pay attention to lip makeup, eyebrow makeup, forehead makeup, face makeup and bun makeup. "Foot-binding" is a common cosmetic accessory for women, but it has been around since the Song Dynasty. "Backstreet Record" said: "The makeup of women in the capital is not as good as that in the world." The record of dropping out of farming said: "Yuanfeng (year number) was less foot-bound, and he was ashamed of Bigfoot at the end of the Song Dynasty."
Everything forms an atmosphere and can't be cured.
Prostitute foot-binding began in Song Dynasty. All the figurines are ladies, and prostitutes follow suit. "Yilin Felling Mountain" said: "It is said that all the people with feet in Hangzhou are prostitutes, wearing narrow socks and bow shoes like lovers." This is obvious evidence.
Yi Shizhen's "Langya Ji" in the Yuan Dynasty said: "I heard that saints set up women, making them not light, so they tied their feet. I live in a boudoir, but I have to go out. I have a car and nothing to do. "
There is a kind of nasty literati in China, who stand in the world with despicable heart and attach the original ugly behavior to the classic theory of saints. This Yi Shizhen is the representative.
Look at another scholar's statement in the Yuan Dynasty. Bai Youzhan said in jing yuan Yu: "Yichuan Sun (Cheng) Huai Xianchun VI is in Anqing. Ming Dow died at the age of 54, and his two sons died early one after another. The Wyeth family still thrives in Chiyang. Women don't bind their feet, they don't understand, and they still keep it today. " Beggars' foot-binding had become a matter of course at that time, and Yichuan women refused to follow this custom, so Bai specially recorded this fact. Many people don't necessarily know Mr. Yichuan mentioned by Bai, but the feudal ethical code that influenced China for nearly a thousand years was the orthodox thought founded by Mr. Yichuan, commonly known as Cheng Yi, a representative of Neo-Confucianism, and was as famous as Zhu.
Mr. Yichuan asked other women to behave properly, even widows could not remarry, but their women refused to bind their feet. His brother Cheng's two sons died young one after another, and his daughter-in-law remarried. There are only two answers to this question. Either we misunderstood the sage's theory, or the sage's theory only meets the requirements of others, but we can make an exception. But if you understand this, you are a saint, and ignorant policies are useless to you.
What happened in China is very strange. Beauty should be a means to increase a woman's charm, which is understandable. The problem is that I'm so bored that I have to push hard with my feet. It's really unreasonable. At first, good women imitated the court, and then foot binding became popular among prostitutes because clients liked it.
At the same time, the political pressure to participate is even greater. Shen Ming Defu's Wild Harvest said: "Beggars in eastern Zhejiang were not allowed to study in the Ming Dynasty, and women were not allowed to bind their feet." The law prohibits the government from becoming exclusive cosmetics for aristocratic women and untouchable women. If so, foot binding will become a status, an identity and an indispensable glory. Lead to folk women, we must chase, even if the poor have a flat stomach, we must also taste the vanity of the aristocratic class. Johns spend money to buy smiles. Although you can't expect the maid-in-waiting reception, you can let prostitutes learn the gestures of the maid-in-waiting. On the contrary, political pressure has contributed to a wide range of social reactions, and the law has become a dead letter and cannot be implemented.
Market demand makes prostitutes' foot-binding more active than folk women, and the smaller they are, the more popular they are. There was a famous John named Yang Tieya in history. The record of dropping out of farming said that he "indulged in debauchery." Every time I see a geisha with little feet, I take off my shoes and socks and drink wine, which is called "Jin Ping Mei".
Jin Pingmei's ugly behavior was not initiated by Yang Tieya, but existed in Song Dynasty, especially in Ming Dynasty. Xu Wan's Poem of Skills says, "Why go to Nagato to get together with wine (wine vessels) at night? Yuen Long wears the shoes of the prostitute Wang of the South Courtyard in his sleeve, and he is as drunk as a fiddler, so he seldom pays the king's respects. The lords of the Ministry of Rites also tasted Jin Ping Mei as a play. Wang Fengzhou is very happy. The next day, he wrote a long song cloud with a fan:' Drinking with this thing makes me want lotus flowers on my teeth.' Yuen Long clapped his hands and became a much-told story. "These two customers became bosom friends because of Jinlian. And Tang Ziwei's "Ode to Foot Arrangement" says: "The first charming child, the golden lotus is the best, and a pair of crested cocks can be praised. Lotus petals, moon buds, tapering embroidery. Never see him again. When will two lovers meet again, hug your waist, put it on your shoulder and hold it on your back. " From this point of view, little feet also have a special pleasure during sexual intercourse. No wonder most prostitutes are wrapped in three-inch golden lotus as a tool to flatter their clients. The slightly older ones will be ridiculed as "Bigfoot", and the prostitutes in the literati will write poems to ridicule. You were called a prostitute at that time. In order to win the favor of customers, how to promote your cosmetics without beating around the bush?
China's literati clients are really responsible for the history of foot-binding that tortured women.