Which small country sandwiched between big countries is quietly looking at China?
Some time ago, China and India faced off in the Doklam area. Bhutan is sandwiched between the two countries and has become the best place to observe the frontline situation of the confrontation.
In addition to its special geographical location, Bhutan itself is also full of mystery. So far, Bhutan has not established diplomatic relations with China, and few Chinese tourists visit it. However, Chinese products are very popular in Bhutan. Not only China, but also only a handful of countries have established diplomatic relations with Bhutan.
But this country, which is said to be poor and backward, claims to have the highest "happiness index" in the world. This seems a bit contradictory. What is the real Bhutan like? How are the people living there?
On September 14, Fan Lingzhi, director of the reporter department of the Global Times, was invited. He just finished his trip to Bhutan and shared his experience in Bhutan with everyone. He also analyzed India's influence on Bhutan and the Bhutanese people's views on China.
As reporters, we really want to go to the front lines to see what’s going on. There are three routes to get there, approaching from China, India, and Bhutan. But under the circumstances, it was impossible to approach Doklam from China and India, so we chose the route to Bhutan.
I started applying for a visa in early August. In fact, applying for a visa is like buying a "ticket": you need to advance part of the travel expenses through a travel agency, and then you can get the visa after remitting the money. In addition, each person must spend at least US$250 per day in Bhutan. Self-funded items require additional charges and must be communicated with the guide.
Control
After arriving in Bhutan, I found that India’s influence on Bhutan exists in almost every aspect and has been around for a long time.
We went to a place called Haa, where India has stationed troops since more than 50 years ago. This was originally a Tibetan Buddhist castle and a spiritual holy place. But in the 1950s and 1960s, India said it wanted "military guidance" and has not withdrawn its troops since then. Now, local residents have become accustomed to them.
In addition to military control, India even controls the economic lifeline of Bhutan.
Hydropower and tourism are the pillars of Bhutan’s economy. In terms of hydropower, since Bhutan is bounded by the Himalayas to the north and the Ganges Plain to the south, the terrain is very different and has natural hydropower advantages. However, Bhutan's hydropower stations were built with money from India. In addition to Bhutan's own use, the electricity generated must also be sold to India. In this way, India controls this economic pillar.
In terms of tourism, I heard that Bhutan has 100 million tourist quotas every year, but my guide did not admit it. Additionally, traveling to Bhutan is expensive. The local explanation for this is to control the number of tourists to prevent damage to the environment. But I think there is still India involved behind this. Because India wants Bhutan to engage with other countries. By raising the threshold for tourism, it does have a certain effect.
In addition to these aspects, India’s political penetration into Bhutan is also relatively serious. For example, I was supposed to interview a Bhutanese scholar. He once expressed some views on the Sino-Indian conflict from China's standpoint. The interview was originally arranged, but a few days later, he changed his mind and did not want to discuss this topic. When I arrived in Bhutan, I couldn't contact him. I guess I had received a gag order.
India’s control over Bhutan is also reflected in Bhutan’s diplomacy. Currently, Bhutan does not have diplomatic relations with China. What is strange is that none of the five permanent members of the United Nations has established diplomatic relations with Bhutan. This has a lot to do with India. There is a metaphor that Bhutan is like India’s little daughter-in-law. India is afraid that the Bhutanese red apricot will come out of the wall, so it is locked in the house and does not let it see anyone. At the same time, tell your little wife that I will buy you nice clothes. It can be said that India has violated Bhutan’s sovereignty very seriously.
To summarize, all India’s actions in Bhutan are to serve its country’s strategic goals. India has also deployed heavy troops in the northeast of the country because India has a fatal strategic weakness in the Siliguri Corridor. This place is vividly called the "Chicken's Neck" and is only a few dozen kilometers wide.
India is afraid that China will enter Bhutan and cut off the "chicken's neck", so it strikes preemptively. Because for India, if it can control Bhutan, its "chicken neck" will be thicker and its strategic weakness will be weakened.
Indian soldiers wearing Bhutanese national costumes
Longing
As India’s control over Bhutan becomes stronger and stronger, the Bhutanese government is also very worried annexed by India. But the local people are not so worried. They are dissatisfied with India mainly because India does not allow Bhutan to establish diplomatic relations with China, which blocks their financial opportunities.
Indeed. Since our country has not established diplomatic relations with Bhutan, and coupled with the influence of India, there are basically no cooperation projects between our country and Bhutan. According to 2015 data, my country’s direct investment in Bhutan was 0.
Even so, Chinese products are still very popular in Bhutan. For example, when I went to Phuntsholing, a small town in the south, the streets were full of Chinese products. Chinese brand mobile phones, electrical appliances, clothing, and trinkets were very popular. Also, I saw a company on the streets of Paro that imported Chinese excavators from Singapore. It is said that I bought 10 cars for the first time, and demand exceeded supply. It can be seen that Chinese products are still very attractive locally.
Chinese excavators lined up neatly on the streets of Paro
However, since Chinese goods in Bhutan are imported from foreign countries, the tax rate is relatively high, and businessmen suffer a lot.
Therefore, the people of Bhutan hope to do business directly with China. They feel that this can promote the development of the country.
For example, the Bhutanese are very envious of our country’s high-speed rail and very much hope to cooperate with our country to build roads, tunnels, and railways. Why? Because the road conditions in Bhutan are very bad, if you want to reach the westernmost part of Bhutan, near Doklam, and the easternmost part, near southern Tibet, you may even have to walk for a week. Local people said that not one meter of the road the Indians built for us was flat.
In this context, many Bhutanese people hope to establish diplomatic relations with our country. There are not many Chinese people in Bhutan. When I communicate with local people, after I get a little familiar with them, they will show their interest and yearning for China. They feel that Indians do not follow rules, while Chinese people are rich and follow rules than Indians.
Due to limited exchanges between China and Bhutan, Chinese culture has not been widely disseminated. Specifically, in all hotels in Bhutan, 70% to 80% are Indian TV stations, and there is not even a Chinese TV station. But one thing impressed me deeply. I heard the song "Little Apple" in a bar in Bhutan, and I danced it very well. So I feel that Chinese culture has great potential.
From a more macro perspective, our country believes in the strategy of peace and friendship. Although Bhutan is a small country, China hopes to develop together with Bhutan and achieve mutual benefit. I met a boy there whose father was a government official. The boy once studied Chinese in Kunming, my country, and spoke Chinese very fluently. The boy quoted his father's words, saying that China is a very sincere country and everyone can talk about problems calmly, but India is not.
Phuntsholing’s national gate of Bhutan is opposite India
History
Faced with China and India, the two neighbors, Bhutan’s domestic political parties have always had Different tendencies.
Since the founding of the country in 1907, Bhutan has been ruled by the Wangchuck family for a full 100 years. But in 2007, Bhutan changed from a monarchy to a constitutional monarchy, introduced the Western parliamentary system, and was divided into two political parties: the Prosperity and Progressive Party of Bhutan and the People's Democratic Party of Bhutan.
After the first election, the Prosperity and Progressive Party of Bhutan came to power. It is composed of royal elites and the prime minister is relatively pro-China. In 2013, the Democratic Party of Bhutan came to power and is generally pro-India.
But the People’s Democratic Party is pro-India, which does not mean that the people at the bottom are also pro-India. For example, when Bhutanese people communicate with unfamiliar people, they will say that India has helped them and is their big brother. But once they became familiar with it, they clearly showed their closeness to China.
Even though Bhutan is a constitutional monarchy, the royal family of Bhutan is still very prestigious. Due to the long-standing tradition and strong religious atmosphere, there are portraits of old and new kings and queens all over Bhutan. Bhutan also stipulates that when people encounter a royal car on the road, they must stop and give way. In 1972, the fourth king of Bhutan proposed the concept of happiness index, which is still very famous today.
I have no intention of evaluating the values of other countries, but to a certain extent, this happiness index is in line with Bhutan’s national conditions. Since Bhutan lacks resources, lacks strategic depth, and has a weak industrial system, it can only rely on big countries. The proposal of the happiness index can enhance the spiritual pursuit of the Bhutanese people, enhance their sense of gain and existence, and is also conducive to the long-term stability of the country.
Bhutan’s Castle
Life
During these days in Bhutan, I really feel that Bhutan is indeed one of the poorest countries in the world. , but it is not as exaggerated as the legend says that people cannot eat. It is said that white-collar workers in Bhutan earn a monthly salary of 2,000 to 3,000 yuan, but farmers earn much less.
What impressed me most during this trip to Bhutan was the experience on the plane. We flew over the southern foothills of the Himalayas and could see Mount Everest from the left. When the plane was flying in the valley, it seemed that its wings were almost touching the mountain peaks, and the wings were swinging back and forth. It is said that only 8 people dare to fly this line, and special permission is required. When I landed, I was also sweating because the runway was very short and landing was difficult.
Another impressive thing is that the air in Bhutan is very good but the roads are very poor. I feel that Bhutan is the cleanest country in South Asia, and the weather is as comfortable as the autumn in Beijing. I think there are three reasons why it is so clean: there are really few locals and there is less pollution; it has a high mountain climate and sunny weather; and the government has a strong awareness of environmental protection. However, there are many cows and dogs on the roads in Bhutan. Some are lying down and resting, while others are walking randomly. You need to be extra careful when driving. Overall, Bhutan is very similar to Tibet in my country. It is less crowded, quieter, and the people are relatively peaceful. This may be related to religious beliefs.
Road conditions in Bhutan
The national religion of Bhutan is Buddhism, and people speak Dzongkha language. It is said that Dzongkha can be seamlessly connected with Tibetan, and there is no problem in communicating between Bhutanese and Tibetans in my country, but it sounds a little different to me. In addition, the currency of Bhutan is called Ngultrum, which is pegged to the rupee, and both are fully interchangeable. Rupees are also used when giving change when buying something in a store.
However, the convenience of life in Bhutan is indeed not as good as in China. If we don't have currency ready, we can only exchange it from the black market, and it can only be exchanged in specific cities, and the exchange rate given is also very low. When it comes to eating, Bhutanese people like chili peppers, and the taste is similar to that in China.
Although Bhutan and China have many similarities, they are helplessly separated by reality.
Although Bhutan is greatly influenced by India, it does not prevent it from quietly looking towards China.
I believe that China’s strong influence will affect Bhutan’s decision-making sooner or later!